Helvet

Not really....., just in theory. We had a test-day, and tested a lot of BB's on the same Dyno. All carb-bikes (no exceptions) had less HP than all the F1 models. This is explained because there is hardly any carb-bike running perfect. Even after a Dyno-session, rejetting etc., they are not as good as the F1 version...... Maybe we just had a few bad carb-bikes, I don't know, but this was the result of our testing. All the carb-bikes were in between 118 and 132 rear-wheel HP. All F1 bikes were between 134 and 154 HP (modified).

Probably the cord-harness is not 100%. Can you tell us the production date? It is a series of 4 digits, weeknumber and year..... For instance 3605 is week 36 in 2005.

Don't use the Pilot Sport, please use the Power (and not the Power Sport). The Sport is for track use, the Power for fast riding on the streets. The combination Power front and Road rear is used a lot in Europe, and works well......

Forget about it...... The wiring loom also needs to be rebuilt, plus all the electronics like ECU etc...... A lot cheaper to trade up!

I am not really sure..... I was expecting 2 seperate shipments, and I got 1. I just don't remember if it was yours..... I'll have to check... Was yours with the new downloaded software on CD-R? In that case I got it....

Then how come I get an Email telling me somebody made a posting to it?

Helvet, I think you mean complete set of front & rear springs, I bought the front ones for around 120 Euros here in Greece. I stand corrected. I changed it in the posting now.... It will fit all models from 1996 up to 2005 (and probably 2006).

This is not the new shock, this is the old one (and this type is not available for the BB). Look at page: http://www.hyperprousa.com/catalog.php?cat...ocks&make=Honda Only type 40 and 41 are at the moment available for the BB..... The new one will be introduced very soon, probably at the biggest motorcycleshow in the world in Milan Italy, end of November. I am not allowed to tell you what has been changed in this shock, but it could very well be worth the wait.... Even if it is just because the older shocks will become cheaper.....

No, more oil will act like a stronger damper, not a stronger spring.... The difference is hard to explain, but you will notice the bike will become more jumpy on bumps. The problem with the standard suspension of the BB is that the damping is too hard, and the spring is too soft. If you add oil you will only make things worse.... If you want to improve the suspension without paying a lot of money you can buy better springs (front and rear) like Öhlins, Hyperpro, WP, Racetech etc... If you don't have any money at all, you can replace the rod on top of the spring for a new one, and make this about 0.5 up to 1 Inch longer. However, you will be decreasing the maximum travel of the suspension, therefore bottoming it out earlier.....

I don't know the USa prices, sorry... Here in Holland we use Euros, and for a complete set of 3 springs (2 in the front, 1 in the rear). a spacer and forkoil, we pay 230 Euros (about $ 290,--). You also get a free T-shirt and a few stickers... The complete shock is not yet calculated. It will probably between 600 and 700 Euro......

Beware that the 1999 and 2000 injection models can have a lot of problems with the main wiring loom. You can not see that without opening the loom. Just look out for strange behaviour of the F1 light on the dashboard, or other weird behaviour...

I agree. Hyperpro is the way to go. We have done a test, rebuilding 3 suspensions on 3 bikes to compair them. If you use the search-function you will find several statements. The best value for money was the Hyperpro springs front and rear (and new oil in the front). If you can afford it, a complete new shock (adjustable) in the rear is preferrable, but pricey.... Hyperpro is introducing a new rear shock later this month (don't tell anybody, it is still a secret), which will be available for the Blackbird early 2006. They will be testriding it on my bike, and I get the set for a bargain.... I've seen and used several Hyperpro products now, and I am convinced they are the best around all over. In most magazines the Hyperpro steering-damper is considered the best by far.... In racing conditions the choice of a non-progressive spring (or 2-steps progressive) might be a better choice because it is more predictable and calculatable (is that even a word?), but on the streets the fully progressive spring only Hyperpro sells is better. Check out http://www.hyperpro.com The site is under construction, but most pages work....

One of our board-members, who runs the club with me and a few others is a Honda-mechanic. He was offered the chance to use these Conti's for free when they were introduced. No charge whatsoever.... He was not displeased with them, but he would not buy them himself. The Michelin is a superior product, and he now runs (again) on Pilot Powers...... I don't know anyone else who used them. Its mostli Michelin now, with some Bridgestone, and even less Pirelli and Metzeler. All other brands are insignificant overhere (for the XX that is....).

I am running my second set of Pilot Roads now. After all my Bridgestones (and before that Dunlop) the best tire I've ever used. Very stabile, very easy to turn, and no headshakes (ever!) anymore. Fantastic grip in the wet, dry and in slippery conditions. Very, very predictable, and with my riding style (very fast but NOT aggressive) it is possible to scrape the fairing quite often (and I am a lightweight). Since I raised my footpegs 2 inches, and raised the bike a lot (Hyperpro suspension) I finally have enough ground clearance to make my turns. Yes, under certain conditions the Pilot Roads will start to slide, but if you ride in a group you will notice that the other tires will slide at least as much..... The Pilot Power is even better in grip and geometry (it's less round, and more V-shaped). However, the mileage is lower.... In all tests I've read by motorcyclemagazines these tires are considered the best around. I sell tires through the Internet now, and these are by far the best sold at the moment.... Here in Holland I guess 70% of the BB-riders use Michelin now....

I own my bike for 6 years, 60.000 miles. The only time I dropped my bike was when I accellerated out off a standstill into first gear, and jumped into neutral when I hit a pothole 2 meters away from where I started. Damage: over $ 3500,-- and a dent in my ego...... Only ever happened once, though.....

Yes, this is a problem for the 1999 and 2000 models. Mine (1999 and over 50.000 miles) has a problem too. I am currently tracing the problem, but I haven't found it yet..... My bike still runs in emergency-mode......

Yes it is easy...... Just placing it back is a little tricky with all the spacers (please note the difference in left and right!) and the brake, but you will figure it out. The first time it can be usefull to have a mate help you because it is quite a heavy wheel.....

Just remember to buy VFR VTEC bars. All the others will not fit!

No...... I don't even know if Japanese H7's exist, but I can buy any H7 bulb and it fits..... Either you guys are taking a piss at me/us (most likely...), or they mount European style bulbs here....

Overhere in Europe all H7 bulbs fit.........

If you want, I can set it up for you guys...... The UK is just way too expensive for parts.... An electrical set for left and right handlebar will cost you used about $ 50 to $ 100 i.m.o.

Just unplug the battery, and it will reset automatically. Doesn't even matter if you disconnect the + or the -. I have to do this several times a day now, because I have some sort of electronical failure which I can't find......

It is a Dyno version, bought used in the USA. It should not give problems on European bikes because the others didn't....

I installed a PC II on my 1999 bike. It ran great.... After a few days I noticed my F1 light came on, and stayed on. After stopping the engine and restarting it started again OK, but after a while it came back on. After this is disconnected the PC II, and the problem was gone. So I installed it again after cleaning all contacts, and it worked OK. However, after a few days I noticed the bike was running worse again, but no F1 light came on..... (bulb is OK, before starting it burns). The bike was running the emergency program (high fuel, low air). After disconnecting the battery and re-connecting it, it was running OK again. Now the time it is running OK before I have to reset is getting shorter.... Anybody got any idea what this could be? Could it be my rectifier going bad (still the original one, 50.000 miles)? Or could it be the main wiring loom problem of the 1999 models? Next try will be replacing the PC II for another one. After that I give up..... Please help.....

Try using the Search-button..... I think you mean: http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...hlight=variobar