mikesail

I'll take the old ones. We chew a few up with racing....

pm sent for Vanson Tim, does a Vanson 46 fit you well, at least for length?

Interesting- I have a 2000 model, and never knew about this glitch, and have never felt it. My mileage runs low 40's at best (Illinois-600' above sea level). Goes on reserve at about 200 miles. XX is mechanically stock except for a K&N air filter. Next ride, I'm going to try to feel this. You obviously found this remapping yours, but did you notice it before that? No.. I did not. You are correct.. once I did the mapping and found it, then I knew why my tail pipes were all Black with Soot. Later I reloaded the Zero Map, which basically returns the bike to stock mapping, and again I was able to feel and see it. When I say see it... it's because I have a Wide band Air Fuel Ratio gauge mounted on my bike. Although it's not as noticeable it is still there. What it feels like is Deceleration..... Like you closed the throttle a little more, when in fact you did not. I'll admit, it is hard to feel on a stock bike, because the AFR change from 13:1 to 11:1 is not that bad... but it is enough to cause you to loose 10% in your fuel mileage for those periods. When I leaned out my bike to run at 15:1 in those same ranges... the impact was HUGE, and it felt like someone hitting the Brakes. If you look for it... carefully and methodically you'll find it... you'll feel it.... and then... it'll drive you Nutz. Eric, are you sure that this is a ECU glitch and not a fault in the TPS? I could easily imagine a bad spot in the potentiometer which would occur in the area where is sits for long periods. I believe they are a wire wound unit typically, but still could develop a bad spot. That said, I would expect it to go in a lean direction for a TPS fault unless the ECU is dominated by manifold pressure signal in that operating range. I don't know how the programming is computing the fuel, so just a guess on my part.

I loosened the main pressurized fuel line that runs from the fuel pump in the tank to the side of the fuel rail. I loosened it at the fuel rail, turned key so the fuel pump would run, and saw the little trickly turn into a much heavy flow. Do you think it could be possible to have blockage in the fuel rail? I like rockme's suggestion to just spray some starter fluid in the intake to at least get a stumble and know I am getting fuel. Will do. I will update after I have a chance to test all the connections, relays, and ECU with my meter. Thanks yall Don't waste your time checking things you don't understand. There is no way to really check the ECU with a meter. If the bike pops with starter fluid, then everything except fuel delivery is ok. If the fuel rail has proper pressure, then you know the injectors are not firing. If the injectors are not firing either the ECU is not getting signals to them or the power to the injectors is bad. If the bike does not pop with the starte fluid, then pull a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it while cranking. Let us know what happens.

I will be amazed if the bullet connectors last, they are not made for the kind of amperage that the stator puts out. If you are pulling the plug off, just go ahead and solder the wires on, that will be reliable.

Not me, just slogging up and down I5 nowadays. Did get down Santiago Canyon last week though.

Why not? All hoses have clamps for retention, some are better some worse. All the early FI systems used a band clamp for their high pressure hose to metal pipe joints,certainly no more secure than a worm gear hose clamp.

Are you sure it's not leaking at one of the banjo fittings? Each one has two aluminum or copper sealing washers just like brake banjo fittings. If you missed a washer, got some dirt under one, or didn't get the bolt/nut torqued properly, it can leak under pressure. You might just need new washers. If it's definitely leaking where the banjo fitting is crimped on to the end of the hose, say by-by to $69.95 + shipping. I disagree. Simply cut off the crimped sleeve of the fitting, and slice the hose to get it off the barbs. Get some high pressure EFI hose from an auto supply shop and use hose clamps to hold the new hose. I think it is 5/16 hose.

Maybe... it'll save you money... the problem with that part of the statement is that K&N filters do need to be cleaned regularly, they do wear out, and they need to be replaced. So... one could maybe argue about the cost thing, if one wanted to get really technical... but I'm not going to put that much effort into it. What I will add however is this... A link to someone that actually spent the money and did the testing. Here... http://forums.nicoclub.com/debunking-the-k...er-t180100.html Now, take that information and make of it what you want out of it... for me, I quote this paraghraph out of it... Practically speaking the last paragraph is right on. If one were to be quite precise and check the numbers in the writeup, you will see that the KN filter loses about 0.2 percent of an atmosphere and the worst is more than twice as much. So the density loss should be well under a hp, but it is technically correct to say the KN flows more.

Finally, a tech thread where people don't dogpile me for being full of shit. Don't be so sure...it's early yet and most people are at work... Having examined three burned stators, I do infact disagree with Zero. It appears that the stator failures can be caused by breakdown of the insulation on the solid magnet wire used for the coils, heat and vibration over time being the likely culprit. Most likely the stator would last longer with less heat cycles, but there is no way to alleviate the stress it receives. It also is true that a short in the RR could take out a stator. In one of the three examined it appeared that the RR was the culprit as the entire "phase" winding, i.e. every third coil was burnt. Just my observations so far.

Sounds like bad relay to me too. Just be sure the cable crimps to and from the relay are good for the high current leads.

My girl might like this, sending PM

Lake Forest, CA I'm a few miles north, I'll be happy to come by and see if we can solve it. Send me a PM if you want.

This is a good company, they are industrial suppliers who have a will-call walk in service as well. They used to be in costa mesa, thus the name. It seems they have moved after being acquired. Mesa Bearing E-mail this company http://www.mesabearing.com 15622 Computer Lane Huntington Beach, CA 92649 Phone: 714-901-2223, 800-821-2657 (toll free) Fax: 714-901-9514

Ever since I saw "The Graduate" I have disliked plastics.

I agree with the above. The question about plastic is when will it break, not if it will. Having high pressure fuel spraying out isn't too cool in my book. Don't recall ever seeing a fuel injection fitting that was plastic, but I haven't looked at a Fiat yet.

Yep, you got it right. I'd suggest dry fitting them first and making sure you've got all the right banjo fittings where they're supposed to be. You said they're used, you do have new washers, right? Regarding washers, and being quite frugal, I have never had a problem with old ones. Take some fine grit paper like 240 or so, clean up both sides to a uniform dullness and reuse. I have seen a new washer weep due to a small imperfection, sanding an old one shows you the condition of the sealing surface. Two separate lines is the way to go, bleeding is more straightforward. Make sure your lines are not pinched or pulled in any way as the forks steer and go thru their full range of motion.

Looks like a surface gap plug. Airplane engines use something like that, and I think many two strokes. Supposedly more reliable, no ground electrode to fall off for aircraft use. I will say that the photo in the ad is bunk, just like the splitfire nonsense. A spark will form in only one location per ignition pulse, the photo is showing multiple discharges, or they just hooked it up to a neon transformer which would do a similar thing because of the 60 Cycles. Just remember, if it makes power then EVERY racer will be using it. Are they all???

Ah. I see. What is that type of clamp specifically called and where would I likely find them? If I can get hold of them, I agree they look better for the job. I think any auto parts store should have them. They are listed as fuel injection clamps by the Ideal co. http://www.idealclamps.com/catalog/clamps/...p;SECTION_ID=17 See this web page for sizing, it has the following chart, my copy below lost formatting. These clamps have a very limited clamping size range. Sizing / Clamping range Chart SAE Sizes Part No. Min. Dia. (in.) Max. Dia. (in.) Min. Dia. (mm) Max. Dia. (mm) Fits Hose I.D. 4 52F13 7/16 1/2 11 13 1/4" 6 52F15 1/2 9/16 13 15 5/16" 8 52F16 9/16 5/8 14 16 3/8"

The fitting pressure rating is not an issue here, Nor is the flow rate, since your fittings are the same ID, more or less. It would be a VERY bad idea to use barbed fittings without some clamp, and there is a better clamp for your setup than the worm gear style. The only thing that you are doing "wrong", and I mean that in a very general way, is the clamp. Here is a comparison photo.

Good point, but IIRC, there are no clamps on the high-pressure lines...it's banjo bolts. Wrong. the rubber hose is crimped onto the banjo fitting, look at your photos. Band clamps only offer existing spring tension and work well on low-pressure lines. Look at any fuel injection system that has removable screw clamps. This is what I am referring to, not a spring clamp. Supposedly I should not have needed clamps at all, so this was just a preventative measure. ????? Do you really think you can run a pressure hose over a barb and not clamp it???? There are more secure fitting styles from Jiffy-Tite, but they cost more too. For the GPM flow rate of a FI system, these barbs should be more than sufficient. What does flow rate have to do with barbs???? I only know of the worm gear hose clamp for high-pressure applications. This is one of those projects where you have to commit to replacing your fuel line IF you mess up, so once you cut the line, there is no going back. Worst case scenario, I need 2 better-suited Jiffy-Tite fittings and a new fuel line. I certainly will watch for leaks or other problems. Please watch carefully.

I might have done things a bit different. Here are my thoughts. The return line is at zero pressure, since it returns gas to the vented tank. This is why the fitting on the FPR does not even have a hose barb, just a slip fit. With the stock Honda clamp, it is not at all difficult to just slide the hose off the FPR. With the quick connect, I would be worried about the hose splitting since it is being forced over the larger -4 barb. So for this return line I would not have changed anything. On the supply side, pressure is of course fairly high. Possibly a much cleaner option would have been to source a banjo fitting with a male AN on the side. Don't know if they make this in metric, but likely you could make an SAE size fit as well. With an AN fitting banjo adaptor, you could use a quick connect with AN instead of hose barb that mates directly to the banjo adaptor and then have only one section of hose with screw hose clamps from other stock barbed banjo. So one banjo fitting stays stock, the other becomes the location of the break connection. For the most secure setup, it would be nice to convert both banjos to the AN adaptors, then use a braided line with crimped fittings. Now you only have braided line and aircraft fittings, good as you can get for safety. Since the AN fittings are very easy to unscrew, you would have as close to a quick connect as possible, with the caveat that you still need a wrench, and the fitting would not shut off upon breaking the line. Finally do note that fuel injection hoses in OEM systems always use the smooth band clamps, not the worm gear style. Since the clamp needs to be fairly tight with the 50 psi or so in the system, a worm gear clamp will severely cut into the hose over time. You might look for a better clamp to help the line last longer, it would be a shame if the lime failed because of the screw clamp.

Alternators for most cars do not have permanent magnets, but that is not a necessary distinction. My first statement would be that an alternator does not use brushes to commutate the alternating voltage output, but uses diodes if DC is needed. Whether a motor or generator uses a permanent magnet or a electromagnet ( as in the field coil ) does not change the alternator/generator distinction. The Bird system does not have any feedback to the alternator from the regulator. What is important to our bikes version of an alternator is three components. First the magnet in the rotor determines the magnetic field strength which then determines how much current can flow in the nearby coil. Second the coil in the stator has a wire gauge which sets a safe limit for current flow, and a number of turns which determines the voltage ( for a given RPM ). For our stator you could wind it with a heavier gauge wire for more current capability, but you would need more RPM's before you started charging. So there is a tradeoff there. Finally there is the R/R unit, which first rectifies the AC from the stator, and next clamps the voltage to the desired charging level. It is important to understand that the regulator functions by shorting out the stator coil when the voltage exceeds the desired level, this is a fundamental weakness of this sort of system. This is ( in my opinion ) why we see so many blown R/R's, stators and connectors, it is not the bike electrical load but rather the regulator momentary shorting that occurs with high RPM's. Joe, is it possibly true that the new higher power spec coincides with the new finned R/R ? That would be my guess, that the limiting factor is the diodes heating in the RR and thus the finned unit can handle more current.

Would love to have a full suit, just not sure what a good price for this is and if I have enough money now for it. And whether I can fit. If Jen would just show a few photos of getting in and out of the suit, then we could better judge it's fit and style. What do you all think?

No polarity concerns for incandescent bulbs. Although theoretically AC will help a bulb last longer, though I doubt you could measure the difference.