RodeRash

Maybe you should look into upgrading your suspension. If your rear tire remains in contact with the road more, it may last longer.

Back in the day, I got my fiberglass fender from Spec II. http://www.spec2.com

Cruise Control Make Your Own $1 throttle lock. Buy a 1" diameter 3/16" rubber o-ring at your hardware store in the plumbing section. When you want to lock your throttle, put it between your bar end weight and your throttle grip. Otherwise roll it onto the bar end weight. You might need one or two 7/8" diameter 1/8" rubber o-rings also. If you don't have bar end weights, you can use a 1½" o-ring or a loop of clothes line between the throttle grip and the switch housing. Alternative: buy a large o-ring fromCaterpiller depending on the diameter of your handlebar weights. About $2. The silicone O-ring has better to UV resistance, the nitrile O-ring is a harder material that should wear better. Thanks to R.Cairns of OZ for the detailed info. Caterpiller 5.33mm O-Ring part numbers Diameter Silicon Nitrile 24.77mm 8M-5266 8B-4967 27.94mm 8M-4991 5H-7370

+1 on the Beads. They also move from bike to bike.

$51.00 from my dealer. (Stock Suzuki set was $38.00) On line, usually around $50.00 + shipping.

It was time for new tires, so I ordered a new set of cush drive rubbers. I ordered a set from Sensei. They claim that they are four times tougher than the stock units. They are really a tight fit. You need to use plenty of silicone before assembly, and then you still need to stand on the sprocket to get them started, then a BF dead blow hammer to seat the sprocket completely. (This is also the recommended install procedure per the included instructions.) What a difference. It drops into gear smooth as can be, and shifts are way smooth. There is no more driveline snatch when transitioning from off to on throttle. Between the drive rubbers and new tires, it's like a whole new bike! I dunno if Sensei makes them for the BlackBird, but if they do, I'd get a set. I highly recommend them.

+1 Check with your local road-racers and drag-racers (preferably the ones that win often). They should be able to send you to a good dyno shop. And, don't forget that Road Racers and Drag Racers usually only put most of their tuning effort into a narrow band, say 3/4 to full throttle. Real world riding requires much more than that.

On the plus side.....It is externally adjustable for compression and rebound. It has a remote reservoir. On the minus side......You need a custom spring. It is even older than your stock shock, and will need a rebuild for sure. It will never work nearly as well as anything you can get from the aftermarket. Don't do it.

My wife won this system in a sales contest, and we already have a surround system. Complete, and ready to set up, including all cables. Sells for $2499 everywhere. Asking $2100 + shipping. PM for more info.

Most of that will blow right off with an air compressor.

Phillips Vision Plus Same wattage as stock, so no worries about melting mounting pieces. EDIT I have not tried these yet, but THIS looks like the way to go.

Rotella was designed for Diesel engines, and it contains more of a specific additive than can be added to automobile specific oils. ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) ZDDP does not reduce friction or wear. What ZDDP does, is to minimize damage caused by metal to metal contact. (which shouldn't happen anyway) This amount of this additive is restricted in automobile specific motor oil because of potential damage to catalytic converters. Interestingly enough, ZDDP is used in most motorcycle specific oils, which is why a lot of people use Rotella instead of paying more for motorcycle specific oils. In the end....it probably doesn't matter at all.

67,000 miles is a bunch. I think I change my oil about every 4-5 thousand. I probably posted something similar to this at one time, but..... I'm more picky about the oil and oil filter that goes into my truck than my bike. My pickup cost a bunch more than the bike, and it gets used a lot harder. It has to deal with short trips that really don't get the oil up to full operating temperature, and a lot of stop and go driving. My bike, by comparison has it easy. It gets nice long rides in the country, not much stop and go, and it has enough horespower that I don't need to run the crap out of it to go fast. I use Silkolene oil in the bike only because my dealer buys it in bulk, and they sell it to me cheap if I supply the container.

Or a bad battery that just won't take a charge.

Good idea Mike. Let me know what their analysis comes up with for #12.

I run Pilot Road 2's front and rear. My last set of tires went a little over 8,000 miles. There was still tread, but it was down to the wear bars front and rear. My current set won't make it that long. You can blame a certain road in Arizona for that. No way could I keep a front tire through two rear tires. And, yes, the PR2 front tire sticks well.

Oh, you still have the parts. They're just not private any more.

You don't have any private parts.

Looks sort of the same, maybe this will help

I'd heard about using the adjustable lowers too, but when I checked with my suspension guy, (PPS Suspension) he didn't think it would work, because you need the lower fork legs as well as the internals. If you do that, you lose the ability to mount the brakes, and the BlackBird fender. He just set spring rates and damping up per my weight and intended riding style, and he matched them to the Penske shock he also set up for me. He spent a lot of time reducing stiction in the forks. After I mounted the forks and shock, I checked the sag, and it was dead on. The suspension worked great, and except for normal maintaince, I never messed with it again.

http://www.tmuscle.com/free_online_article...redded_physique Its very quick and will have you huffing if you have a piss poor work capacity like I do. I agree. Do those for a while, and you'll learn to love cardio. Brett, You're an animal.

After sucessfully using Phillips Vision+ bulbs in my Bird, I installed one in my Busa shortly after I bought it. It failed during the West Coast Bash a couple years ago. When I got back home, I re-installed the stock bulb, and have not had a problem. It could just be a concidence. I don't know. With my Busa, I also found that I had to adjust the headlights up quite a bit before they worked well. They were pointing at the ground even before I raised the back of my bike up.