azxx

Porcelain part on top, with a small threaded end for snapping the plug wire on. The bottom is metal, and threaded. There's a hex just above the threads to be used when installing the plug in the head. Does that help? Mine are the original lever style (L type) :wink:

When my GS1150 did that I held the starter button and tapped on the starter, it started right up. Starter had a dead spot.

Has the valve cover been off recently? There are the Pair Valve air passage O-Rings under the valve cover that seal the air passage from oil, if left out or damaged oil would go into the exhaust port, they are'nt part of the valve cover gasket, just 4 o-rings. Just a thought.

Candidate for exhaust wrap.

Shit, I was going to offer ya $500 for the bike.

Did they check the jet sizes when they did the carbs, may have been rejetted at some point in time and is running rich fowling plugs, did they check the carb. (CV) diaphrams, The spark plugs should give you and idea of whats going on if you don't find a vent problem or something obvious, good luck.

Move to AZ we don't have water, we got lotza heat thou. And it's a little dry.

I hate heat.

If your having a temp problem you might try exhaust header wrap to reduce heat in front of the engine, remove insulation in the fairing lowers, it holds heat, drill the stock exhaust, very restrictive, if it carbed run richer at idle, my 98 only goes to half and the fan holds it there, all I've done is drilled exhaust and jetting but the FI bikes get hotter, at least the one I rode.

I replace my batt every year $50 at wally world, 35 bikes and I've never had a charging system or starting issue, except my GS1150ES, it vibrated the wires apart in the stator.

Fuel pump may be drawing too many amps but that would be the last resort if all wires, grounds, connectors and relay in that circut are good and no pinched wires are found. I don't have a book on the FI model but I would make sure there is nothing else on that circut.

Have the battery load tested, make sure it has enough cranking amps.

The more antifreeze the hotter they run.

A radiator guard (screen) would be more usefull at least here in AZ with all the rocks flying around.

That sounds good as long as it's not too much tension and wearing the chain guides, a friend XX I rode seemed noisy so when he did his valve clearnace check we checked the chain tension and it was tight, it looks like the plunger is out to far and when it gets a little side play it rattles, if I had a lathe I would experiment machining down the lifter (cct) mounting face so it would sit deeper reducing the amount the plunger has to be extended out, it's either that or with the plunger extending out too far it reduces spring tension just enough to cause noise, in that case your fix may be a more permenent fix. Just my 2 cents How can I go to court with this shit.

May have had a O2 sensor glitch, the pair valves let air in the exaust stream and that increases exaust gas temp. I don't have a FI XX but I know on my CBR1000F when I removed the emmissions (air injection system) the exaust ran cooler.

Make sure you set the sag correct.

Might take the gas cap assembly to a locksmith see if he can make a key.

The only internal leak you could have would be valve cover gasket leaking into a spark plug hole, that would come out one of the 4 drain holes in the head just under the exaust pipes and run down the front of the cases.

I was out in stop and go last year in Scottsdale when in was like a oven out on the road, my 98XX it was able to maintain right at 1/2 way on the temp gauge, I have the stock exaust cans drilled out and a little rich on the low speed jetting, you may need to check the cooling system.

There;s quite a few on the net, here's a few on this link. http://images.google.com/images?q=cbr+1100...um|large|xlarge You can make your own try this link http://www.speedysigns.com/lettering/lette...tering_tool.asp

I had a short tester from Snap-On when working on cars, you plug it in place of the fuse it buzzes when the short is present, then you can wiggle or move wiring harnesses, move handlebars back and forth or unplug connectors one at a time to help locate the short.

The London courier guy with the 400,000 mile XX might be able to use the grade 70 oil.

Maybe check engine mount bolts retorque, loosen and reposition exaust, adj. balancers. It helped on my buzz bomb Suzuki GS1150ES no balancers in it but it sure needed them.

You can't complain, remember this one. Total bummer. http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...an+screewdriver