The Krypt Keeper

Shipping is free to a local shop I have used for almost 20 years. He was the one who showed me this website. They charge 10 or 15 bucks a tire to mount and balance. Also doing an alignment at same time.

Stock tires on the rams suck. 20k miles and close to being need of replaced by most people. Use to run cooper lifeliners on my charger they wore awesome abd lasted forever, when to get another set after a couple years those were discontinued.

after searching I decided on these was going to go up in size a weeee little bit and it doubled the price per tire. http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/cooper/275%2F60-20+cooper+discoverer+a%2Ft3+suv+115t+owl.html

Thank you, Need tires on ram as well, going to install bilstein shocks and tires next month.

Grey scotchbright pad abd go with grain of stainless. Other ways are using a media blast with fine glass or even a chemical acid wash.. I suggest a scotch bright pad..

Fly and ride Will suck taking I95 back home but would meet you in Va for lunch or dinner

Yeah, what the hell is under the plastic that isnt stock?

Awesome, part is $10-$11 bucks. Good to know and have in your tool bag for long trips

Thanks for the offer, got a couple connectors ordered.

Got a couple pics of what I found.. last time I checked the plug it looked brand new. Will end up removing about 2" or so of wire on the r/r side. All good, will have it fixed soon enough. Thanks for the link John, had been looking at some weatherproof ones from msd but cant find wire gauge size listed on amazon.

Usually check this plug once every couple years. I just checked it while the tail section was off and the plug shows the signs of failure in the making. My volt meter on the bike never showed any sign of fluctuations on my last ride so that is a good sign. Did a quick check of stator and R/R and both check out as well. Will need a new plug and pin connectors to install. Doubt honda sells these, anyone got a source to buy the 3 connector? Thanks

Coke bottle next to lifted front end almost touching rotor. Spin wheel and look for anything signs of it touching or hearing it touch.

I try to clean my buttons yearly and still amazed at the crap that I wash out of them.

Believe warchilds process was lost on the old website. I will see if i can take some pics of it this weekend and post up. I adjust my chain every 3500 to 4000 miles at tire changes. Never really gets much slack in it. Clean it about every 500 or so miles with kero. Got 26k miles out of my last chain and expect same if not more out of current one. Do spray dupont chain dry lube every few hundred miles.

Warchild adjustment was to use a beveled nuts on a piece of threaded rod. Will need 2 of the rods with beveled nuts. Run one through rear axle and other through lower engine frame mount. Tighten up the beveled nuts with your fingers to make sure they are snug. Can use tape measure or yard stick but measure distance between the two rods close to bike and also at furthest point away. Be sure not to apply pressure on tape or can throw off measurement. Use Adjusters to take slack out of chain and make both measurements equal to properly align rear wheel and chain. When done remove rods and tighten your axle, then torque to 69ftlbs and back your adjusters out and think the torque is 14ft lbs on them Anyways, seems like a lot, but just takes a few minutes to do. I have been doing it this way for over a decade.

Are you properly torquing down your adj bolts and axle? Once your axle is tighened down there is very little chance for it to ever move to allow your chain to loosen up in 200 miles. I do mine per warchild method he showed years ago with two pieces of all thread rod. Quick and painless

Damn, I was right by you yesterday afternoon heading back from BullRun bored sitting in traffic. Let me see how my morning goes tomorrow, helping the inlaws move stuff around as they have painters redoing all rooms. If I can get away at a decent hour will give you a ring.

What front end is that?

Anyone?

Talk to a few people who do lot clearing and preparation for home building. The will know what you need to take care of driveway installation and how to grade it to allow proper water drainage/flow Your friend with dumptruck should know where to get the stone at contractor prices and save you some $$$ on getting stones from the quarries and not at the upcharged happy harry home owner prices they will sell to the average person. Be sure to check with any lines underground and permits that might be needed. A good equipment operator and truck driver are worth their weight in gold in doing a quality job. Talk to your buddy about anyone he recommends doing it.

Fresh virgin ground? Never driven on with anything? Would start with some #3 size crushed stone which is roughly mostly 1.5 to 2.5 inch stone. Similar to what is used by loggers or contractors when placing a new driveway. Would recommend getting the chosen path you want done graded and crowned and look for proper ways to flow and control water away from the driveway and also not create large washouts or erode anything. Can use stone and corrugated pipe for drainage. After all that fun and the base size materials are placed and established into the ground.. you can go back over them later with a 57 size stone.. mostly a 1/2" to a 3/4" size stone.. but make sure the other stone is well packed and established... wont happen over night and take time for the stone to lock itself together. You got acess to equipment? Give me the diminsions of the drive you intend to put in and I can easily tell you how much stone you will need.

Bird of love is the dove Bird of true love is the swallow

Gotcha... the gauges look nice.. not really blinding at all. Come do mine

What does the highbeam indicator light look like? That one on my 02 is blue and blinding to me when in use.

Would check to make sure you are sending power from that relay to the fuel pump itself. Just because its clicking doesnt mean the power is being sent out. (Just went through this headache on a fan relay a couple weeks ago) can swap the relays around from fan to fuel pump really quick to rule out relay. If you are getting power sent to the pump, check the pump ground connections and see if that helps. My Next step would be to unplug battery from bike, unplug fuel pump connector and jump it with the battery directly to see if it even comes to life. If it does you know it works, Also gives time for ecu to clear itself before connecting battery back up and see it that helped as well..