The Krypt Keeper

Hmm, might have a vent problem with your gas tank.. once you fill her all the way up she don't have much air in there. With your vent blocked not letting air in to replace the fuel being sent to the engine you cause a vaccum and this stops flow of fuel... Check you gas cap and make sure no dirt or crude is blocking anything.

yep back of the tank.. they are usually covered by a huge ass washer 3 inch bolt 12mm head I do believe :wink:

I wouldn't mind loosing alittle mid range.. I wanted to get alittle more free flowing exhaust. But also don't wanna burn up my exhaust valves in the process. :grin: I noticed the exhaust shape when laying on the ground changing my oil the first time.. I thought the stocker would benifit from a more ( Y ) shape pipe than the stocker with its exhaust coming to a dead end and being forced to go either left or right :???: At least I know why honda made such a funny looking exhaust pipe now and the purpose behind it Going to do some searching for that 2Bros pipe and see what I come up with.. If I do anything it will be a winter mod project... with riding season here I am too busy wanting to ride right now...

Thats bullshit.. Buddy of mine works the parts desk at the local Honda shop. He can look up every nut, bolt, and washer. He spent one full day of being bored and selected every part number you would need to built a RC-51 from the the ground up buying the parts from the dealer. Think the total bill was almost $49,000 :roll: talk about price gouging

get some graphite and put some in :wink:

I know when I first got the bird home and cleaning it up.. I noticed the lack of a cotter key I just thought to myself :shock: 'Holy fuck they forgot to put the cotter key in the axle :shock: I could have been killed I them read my manual :roll: , and asked about the chance of it backing off... Yeah I'm a idiot :cool:

Yeah what he said... a sound shouldn't make your bike have vibes all of a sudden... unless you ride a Harley and expect shit too fall off

I am 220lbs so every ounce surely don't count :wink:

Its also not just a plain nut either.. look at it closer next time you have it off :wink: Its a type of locking nut. Its not going to come off, the swingarm actually flexes some once tightened to 69 ft lbs. This causes the swingarm to push against the nut and keep it in place also. I replace my crush washer everytime I drain my oil.. but had my axle nut off numerous times and never once had a problem with it.....

Cool deal appreicate the info :wink: I was curious how I am suppose to get a good seal with ramair and get the airbox pressurized they just pop right out and didn't have a very snug fit.. Might see about getting a K&N filter soon than.. if anything it will save me a trip to the stealers when a paper filter would need to be changed.. already have the cleaning kit and oil for all my other K&N filters :wink:

I wanted to check my plugs since I am about due. I ordered some this evening for $8.00 each :wink: and was curious on a couple things. Why are the velocity stacks different heights? I only figured because of the shape the airbox itself. stacks 1 and 4 would need to be lower to allow the same amount of air into them as 2, and 3 sitting nice and pretty in the wide open middle of the box. The ram air tubes aren't really snug fitted together. :???: If you were too put some RTV around them make a tighter seal would it be easier to pressurize your airbox, maybe making a few more ponies in the lower RPM range? Also Honda put so much thought into their airfilter.. would a K&N be better when I go to dyno tune or stay with Honda filters.. I have heard both sides argue this about them.. Just wanna know results other bird owners have had. This is my only thing I own that doesn't have a K&N in it yet. thanks for all the input.. Dave

Anyone got any recommendation for what type of aftermarket header pipe to look for? Will a Ti pipe be able to be welded to a ( Y ) or will I need to make everything Ti if I go that route?

:shock: damn that place is exhaust heaven :wink: Now you really got me wanting to do this.. will have to get up with my father in law and let him help me take some measurements :twisted:

I have seen several post about people making custom exhaust. I have Leo Vince slip-on's for my bird. Main reason was I wanted to keep the dual look. She just seems to look funny with a 4 into 1 exhaust. Anyways... how much of a pain in the butt would it be to get a header pipe for the bird, and weld up something to retain the dual pipes? My father-in-law welds for a living running his own bizz. I have seen him make exhausts for tractors and stuff, using his plasma cutter would also make things have a nice edge to make it look professional. I would buy a stock header off a bird and use the tail end where it Y's to keep the dual pipes. Then would fabricate a aftermarket header to this. I know anything can be done if you spend enough money, but this just seems like a simple project to do one weekend if I had the parts. What brand of header would free up the most HP? Also my welding skills are limited can you weld Ti header to the stock header (Y) Thanks for any imput

:shock: damn... I envy you .... err I mean your bike :grin:

Might go looking around to see if I can find that 0w-40 I don't mind using the 15w-50 since its easy to find but I might know a couple places that will get the 0w-40 for me easy also..

I use the mobil 1 oil 15w-50 like many of us use. Alot of people look at me stupid or ask why when I tell them the oil I use. How much of a difference can the oil weight make? what advantages is there to use a thicker or thinner oil than the 15w-50? I am not concered too much about my oil lasting 250,000,000 miles before I have to change it. I just want a oil that protects my internal parts till the next oil change I change my oil and filter every 2500 to 3000 miles.. or about every 6 trips to the mountains :wink:

I was expecting him to say at least a couple hundred bucks to do it. My buddy knows him really well. He has bought a fourwheeler and 3 bikes from there, and this is the only guy that he lets touch his stuff. I forgot to ask what kind of dyno they had :roll: They have their own dyno room. Even has windows for you to watch them do everything. He just told me that he has my baseline in the computer, and to bring a PCIII with me next time and he will take care of it... :grin: Very nice guy

Damn your quick... Thanks for the link. I had my bike dynoed today, and wasn't very happy with the results. The bike got up too 158 indicated in 4th gear. They had a fan for flowing air past the radiator to keep the bikes from over heating. But didn't have anyway to do the Ram Air Oh Northman, I asked about the Altitude change when getting a dyno tune. The place is 800ft above sea level, They are in a valley up in the mountains. He it shouldn't make any difference unless there is a 3000 ft altitude difference in where you get the Dyno tune at and where you normally ride. He got a base run of my bike with just my Leo Vince pipes she ran a 130hp at the back wheel with no ram air. He said to get a PCIII and bring her back and he will dyno tune her in for $75 :shock: I was in the shop today with him for almost 2 hours watching him. He definetly knows his shit, never seen a shop ran so well.

Where in VA are you located? I don't have the map your looking for but looking for someone to dyno tune my bird for meas soon as I get a PCIII. Guy in Harrisonburg said he would do it for $75

At what speed does the Ram Air of the bird kick in to pressurize the airbox? How much more HP is being produced with ram air as opposed no ram air? Thanks

I use one at work every now and then. My biggest problem is wanting to 'blink' everytime I go to weld Father-in-law welds for a living has his own bizz making and fixing almost anything for people.. He still relies on his plain helmet.. Might see about getting him one for a present :wink:

What about a K&N filter? I have heard stuff from both sides of it.. Some say to stay stock, some say the K&N is better, while others say get the K&N and use is since you can keep it forever from cleaning it over and over. Would this more free flowing air, with some bigger stacks help out the midrange?

Buddy of mine changed them on his GXSR 1000, he went with the 750's stacks. I don't know why but he said alot of people on gixxer.com did it. Heres some info he posted about it after he got her Dyno Tuned HP: 165.4 @ 12,250rpm TQ: 83.0 @ 8,500 rpm Bike: 2003 GSX-R 1000 7k miles break in method- babied it like crazy Power mods: Arata full exhaust PCIII USB 750 short velocity stacks Denso Iridium spark plugs pair mod

I figured most slipons are pretty close to being all the same. Most are a straight shot through the pipe. I was more worried about the elevation changes for a dyno tune, and having it run alittle too lean when I get down to just above sealevel and maybe cause problems. I will be at the shop this weekend and will ask. Will post the answers I get..