Crash1alot

Interesting... Just ordered a 190/50 Gonna try it out all over, If ya all want ill post my findings ?

Roket me , Pete in PA Wish we did dyno it to prove the change I do know seat of the pants and pucker factor arent real numbers, But re synching the carbs was absoulutly neccesary, It did detonate backfire spit and pop before we re adjusted the carbs, the weight of the fuel is alot higher meaning more mass and alot more dense, acting like a richer mixture which made it sputter, after the adjustment it cleaned right up and began to run smooth at higher rpm. tuning to vacuum numbers is a cheaters way to balance the carbs, when you balance them across all four cylinders to there highest numbers evenly across the gauges then they are palanced (basically sucking the same). When its back up and running (on the trailer now for its inspection) Ill go and detune it to the 91 then redo it on the right gas for the bike and send you all some numbers. And last I checked the bird had 11.8 comp ratio and redline is 11,400 if you do the math (I had the machine shop do it) It needs around 112 if retuned properly to make max hosepower without changing any engine internals. Good exhaust numbers for emmision efficeincy are 14.0 : 1 (Stochimetric as its technically called) 12.0 : 1 is more of a power ratio and emmisions numbers will go up as a result.

Ok then why does it run like it does then ??? Explain that to your guru maybe I stumbled on something else, I doubt it, I know what Im doing, and you will make more power when tuned right and with the right fuel for the compression ration and rpm. For someone who has that sig line maybe you should think before you talk as should I. I figured Id add my test results that worked and maybe help someone else have more fun on there bird and extend its life. And it does exactly what I said it did if ya dont beleive me feel free to come ride it if you want. Please dont insult me with second hand info, I also know tuners that cant tune for shit but there right. lol Let the flames begin lol

I have two of the 100W on mine and they do drag the charging down at idle. but I havent had any heat problems with them yet. Thanks for the tip on the silverstars ebay does rock rebuilt the whole bike from there for under a grand !!

Its about 4.25 a gallon here But I think its worth it once a week to put in 25 bucks worth. The difference is just too much to let go with !! Your lucky with 93 all we have here is 91 and we had it tested and its more like 89 not 91 !!

The short could actually be coming from a grounded "sensing" wire to the alternator, If that happens then the alternator thinks the battery is charged and doesnt put out any amps to recharge the battery, only enough to run the comp and other things but still cant sense load. To check where the draw is coming from hook your ammeter inline with the negative cable disconnected with positive lead on cable negative on battery and pull fuses (key off of course). If theres no change then it not in any of those harnesses, start disconnecting the r/r and then further down the lines. If you do find it when a connector is unplugged then search downstrem in that bundle for the cause. If that doesnt work look in the manual and start ohms checking wires (key off !!) Check each power wire at each end unplugged at there greatest length If all good check the power wires with the positive lead on the wire and the other to chassis ground. if you get a reading whala !! theres your problem. good luck wiring sucks but with one wire at a time its not that bad. And if ya have to just start unplugging every damn connector then so be it ive had to do it before. I dont beleive your alternator is bad because you did get a rise in voltage slightly which is a sign og life but it may not be regulating correctly. But, if you could borrow that r/r from somebody, id send ya mine but I think its acting up again and im getting ready to bring it out of storage here, getting liscence back soon I hope !!! But if ya cant find anyone to let ya borrow one ill let you use mine to check. Mine on my 97 has quit twice and the symptoms leading to death were ufo style gauges at idle or when brakes lit up gauges went nuts and random ignition cutoff which was like turning the key off then back on as fast as i could. And also I buy stuff via ebay all the time, if your careful at reading there description then usually the have a refund/defective policy if a ebay store or if the guy says it works in his description, then it has to, its contract law, if you get it and it doesnt work he must take the part back and ebay has ways to do that for you. Most of the time I just email and ask where it came from wrecked bike or otherwise, did it/ does it work that you know of.... Its actually a cool place to shop and do business.. yes I have been burned but not buy anyone selling bike parts !! Most people there are honest surprisingly, most stuff I get matches what the condition is they say its in or better.

Couldnt tell ya bud sorry, Ive been pulled on my Black XX once in the year ive owned it and was let go even though I had a revoked drivers liscence and no insurance suspended plates and he saw me on one wheel LOL !!! My buddy that was there still cant beleive he let me go. Just said you shouldnt be riding on a revoked liscence and said it weas up to me whether or not to continue riding, he also said he wouldnt be waiting to pull me over if I left. Good cop, Thank you GOD

I have heard alot about this and with the help of the old owner and the hot rod shop. Bike shops charge waaaay too much for the same quality of fuel (both used to work there) We have done a race fuel test. (trick race fuel used) 1. As a base the engine was drained of all fuel (sat for a while) and refilled with 91 octane pump gas. The bike was re-tuned to straight across vacuum numbers and the test ride ensued. Both myself and my friend rode it to get two responses. 2. The 91 was drained and straight trick unleaded was used (app. 104 octane) No carb retuning was done and the test ride results from both of us were 1. cold starts were same 2. harder hard starts (small) 3. throttle respone remained the same with no sputtering,hiccups, or other farts of any nature. 4. no noticable gain in power. 3. Unleaded drained and 113 was used, almost same results as above exept off idle response was sluggish until 3500 was reached then minimal improvements were noticed in acceleration and cruise smoothness. 4. it starts progressivly getting worse, with 116, 117, and n119 (designed for nitrous engines) and various mixes of the fuel. Everything just got worse, hard to start cold or hot, idle quality ??? WHERE??? acceleration test was stopped after dodge neon won intersection race (( Alas, looks like race fuel wasnt for the 'Bird. BUT dont fret, it gets better I promise !!!!! It was meant for better fuel !!! NOW we started over with the race fuel and began to re-tune the engine to even vacuum numbers across all four cylinders every time we changed fuel and after calculation of the Birds comp ratio, cyl. pressure, RPM band, we found the golden go-go juice !! Test results on the golden goods were 1. Fired first crank cold and hot. 2. Idle RPM increased (a sign of more power) and was re adjusted 3. Idle quality was very smooth as with normal engine tuning and fuel 4. Acceleration improved drastically, Hazing of rear tire even with 32 PSI In first and second, then hookin in third 5. snapping of the throttle resulted in immediate response 6. Mid RPM throttle response was extremely crisp 7. as with high RPM, Engine continued to pull harder and harder througout the rpm band, NO MATTER WHAT GEAR !! 8. 6th gear acceleration from 65 was insane, whithin what felt like a few seconds the Bird was flying along at 180, there was more but traffic ensued :mad: still 15 MPH faster than top speed stock 9. Temp did increase a few degrees all around, but no adverse affects 10. Ahhhh the one youve probably been waiting to hear..... Fuel mileage per tank was 230 miles per tank with hard riding and get this, 195 with cruising around. 11. exhaust smell improved exponentially !!! It loved to run !!! It wanted to go, and when you asked it delivered with tire hazing, standing up rearing its belly and flying through radar traps !!! I also ran against my other friend on his heavily upgraded gsxr1000fi and he would tear away from the start then just go away ! as this time he was shocked when he looked over and he said damn guess the tuning and fuel did make a difference, He still was in front but I could almost reach out and touch him !!!! The mix was 2 gallons of the unleaded with 3 gallons 116 (blue tint) and tuning is very important you must retune the bike to accept the denser fuel or all your gonna get is an expensive, sweet looking, sweet smelling, hiccup monster !!! Now the downside, if you all of the sudden have to stop on a long trip to get regular fuel, performance does drop and stuttering was noticed when cruising (lean mis-fires) promptly cured by adding the right mix. I have also noticed cleaner smog numbers (LOL) and plugs survived longer. Hope you get to experience this for yourself, and no you wont convince me it doesnt work or it a waste of time because I know then your doing something wrong. I tried it and it does work. :wink:

With Brigstone 010's I run 35 F / 32 R With the increased gearing and running race fueled tuned properly I have the most take-off grip and have yet to find when the tires lose grip on the mountain when the are "up to temp" :cool: