jon haney

LOL. That was probably the last car to have all those traits. Points?? In 1978? Really?

Want more MPG? It's all about reducing. Reduce wind drag, weight, rolling resistance, and "Pumping losses". That last one is least understood. A vehicle going down the highway takes a certain amount of power to maintain a speed, let's say 20HP. If your engine is capable of 200 Hp, your throttle is barely open at cruise speed, with the pistons having to pull big manifold vacuum (pumping loss). Plus, friction through the entire drive-train is much higher because the components are bigger to be able to handle 200 Hp when commanded. If the engine is only capable of 50 Hp, it is much more efficient when producing the required 20. Of course, it will take much longer to get to a highway speed. That is the trade-off. My sister had a 1982 Mazda 626 with a 2-liter inline 4 cyl, rated at 80 HP. This car was rear-wheel drive, stick shift, and had a carburetor. Made 38 MPG on the highway. Imagine what it would do with modern fuel injection, front-wheel drive, and aerodynamics.

And the Star Trek universal translator was born. LOL.

Oscar, I was going to say that it sounds to me like your oil is just too thick, but you said it's better when cold. I got nothing. Wait, maybe the bike just doesn't like you. 🙂

I think we have a winner. I got 192 miles on a tank once in Colorado (hauling ass), but never more than 160 in KS riding like a grandpa.

An engine oil should get dirty slowly over 3 to 5K miles. If not, it's not doing one of the jobs it's supposed to do, which is keep deposits in suspension, and not deposited on engine parts. I believe the additive is called detergent. Just one of the reasons you change oil at regular intervals. If all it had to do was be lubricant, you could run it a lot longer.

I put it in my 650 Maxim back in the late 80's and had no slippage at all. I did hear of some that did. One guy believed in it so much, he would sacrifice a set of clutch plates. I can't say that I noticed any difference.

My 2017 Nissan Frontier has neither a locked gas door or cap. Not sure about anything down in the fill neck. My wife's 2015 Altima has a latched door, with a release lever inside. It's amazing the differences in the actual operation of controls between the two vehicles. Almost like they were different makes.

For lubing locks, use Tri-Flow or powdered teflon. I have a 20 year old pad lock on my shed (out in the weather) that is still as smooth as the day I bought it. I may have put some WD-40 in it in the early years, but only Tri-flow in the last 10. Probably only lubed it 5 times total. I guess it really doesn't see as much use as a gas cap lock, but still.........

Even if you're doing track days, I recommend a Q3 front with a Roadsmart rear. Plenty of grip for 99% of your riding, plus wet weather capability and decent mileage. If you're looking for maximum mileage, I'm not the guy to ask. 😁

Yeah, I could be taking enough weight off the rear for that to happen, given the downhill. I wonder why it didn't happen on the first Bird? They were set-up almost identical. My first Bird was de-linked before I got the second, and perhaps I was just more confident. The first Bird probably would have started doing it, if I had left it linked.

Would love to know the engineering behind the LBS system. How do they compensate for different weight riders/passengers/gear? What about different tires/traction conditions? What about shimming the rear shock, which changes weight bias? I'm amazed the system works as well as it does.

If that's true, it would be a major difference in braking force. What's interesting to me is that the front fork master (secondary master) gets pushed harder the harder you squeeze the front lever. I would assume this puts more pressure to the rear caliper. Of course, this seems backwards, since the more you apply the front brakes, the less weight on the rear, and the easier it would try to lock the rear. If they did switch from 2 pistons to one on the FI bikes, it would still take a major change to the proportioning valve. ABS seems less complicated now, and infinitely better. To clarify my experience, I only chirped the rear tire when I was at the track, approaching the downhill hairpin turn, which is at the end of the back straight. About 105-110 mph.

True, but the lever travel was way too much for my tastes. I even tried a 14mm M/C off a Superhawk, and still wanted more firmness. Ha, I think I just "chummed the waters" for some ubiquitous .Org humor.

I left my two cents over in the other thread. However, I would like to say that I believe the rear bias on the linked BB brakes is different between carbed and FI versions. One of my 99's was an early model (VIN ending in 0300's), and the back wheel would chirp when hard on the front brake lever. The other (VIN in the 0900's) never had that problem. I figure Honda had some left-over proportional valves from the 98 models, and just used them on the early 99's. Any one needing a new one would just get the improved version.

That's normal wear. The big "green washer" is what Honda calls a noise dampener. I works, too versus a non-damped after-market sprocket. If you're hearing an abnormal or just louder noise when just pushing the bike, perhaps your chain is a little too tight, or your rear wheel is out of alignment? Or worse yet, the sprocket bolt is loose.

If you're not afraid to pop the pistons out of the calipers and re-install, you can do it super cheap. Biggest expense is a different master cylinder (Ebay). One from a CBR600F4 looks identical to the Bird's, but is 5/8" diameter instead of 1/2". The size of the master is usually molded into the casting under the reservoir, so you could use almost anything with that diameter piston. You could even go with a radial M/C. Currently, my Bird is de-linked, and using all stock hoses and a Hayabusa M/C. All you need is some very short 10mm bolts (and likely some new copper washers) to plug the extra caliper holes. It's likely that you'll only be able to find longer bolts, and then have to cut them down. I'm lucky enough to have a metric thread file to "de-burr" the ends after hack-sawing the extra length. I recommend getting some s.s. braided lines for the front to firm-up the feel. There is a thread on here by Red J in the "Important and useful threads" section, detailing the caliper mods. You can also PM me, if you have any questions. Better yet, find a member close to you that has done it, and see if they will help you.

I believe there is a proportioning valve under the seat that should be considered. I'll say it again. You'll save your self a lot of headache by just de-linking. Then it will be a real motorcycle braking system. 😉

Probably just stretched a little. Oil might help with the "feel", along with deleting any kinks.

Check the ground first, of course. There is also a dis-connect on top of the engine for the speed sensor that can get very dirty. The speed sensor actually picks up the rotation of second gear. 28 teeth IIRC. I had to know this info to program the data-logger on my drag Bird.

JT sprockets?? You are a cheap bastard. 😀 Actually, I'm sure they are fine for street duty. I tried a couple on the drag Bird (16T), and found them to be weak. Broke 6 teeth off of the first one. Not sure how many races that was. Then 3 teeth off of the second after just one race. Sunstar or Vortex for me. A couple thousandths of linear play on the shaft is normal. The splines should be tight enough for practically no rotational play.

Yep. Might be a very interesting map, if disconnecting the O2 sensor. Lot's of negatives, I'm guessing.

Seat is sold. The rest of the parts, and a couple not shown here will be at RacerXX.

Soooo, it should work on later models, but not if it has O2 sensor, right? Forgot to mention it has a wire to tap into the throttle position sensor. This allows you to tune for better mileage at partial throttle (highway droning) and tune for best power at full throttle.

I don't believe that's true when it comes to the fuel injection. 99 and 00 are essentially the same. My PC3 works for those years only, and modifies the signal from the ECU to the injectors. The PC2 actually modified the signal from the sensors, to which the ECU then sent the appropriate signal to the injectors. Since the 2001 and later has an O2 sensor (i.e. feedback), Dynojet had to go back to modifying the input sensor signals, which is why it plugs into the ECU, like the old PC2. However, if you have a way to (electronically) delete the O2 sensor from the ECU, I don't see why my PC3 wouldn't work for the later years.