XXSIVSPD

Just a quick update. My stator shit the bed this weekend. Wonder if the FI light symptoms I was seeing were the beginnings of the stator going south...

I sure did. I've got some left over though.

Thanks for all the info & links! With a ride this weekend, I pulled things apart last night. That connector & it's pins didn't look bad at all. Just a small amount of corrosion on the two connector sets closest to the end which sat lowest in it's old position. Cleaned everything up with wire brushes, needle files, connector cleaner, & some battery terminal cleaner. Cleaned up my grounds & a few other connections while I was in there too. All seems fine for now. Not one hint of the FI light last night or today. Knock on wood! Noticed my dash lighting is brigher after all this. Not just the guages (which are slightly brighter), but the indicators too (which are substantially brighter). Perhaps I had a questionable ground. Diamond cut needle files are great for getting to fresh metal! I know this is just a temporary fix, so I'll probably cut & solder in the winter when I can take more time & not have to worry about missing a ride. I can see why this happens. Not a good location for that terminal block at all!

Thanks. If I tear into that loom, I'll do it right the 1st time. No point revisiting it again later. I see the pinned thread in the "useful threads" section, but the pics are all red x's on my end. Anybody got pics or an updated link? I'd hate to create other issues!! I also see some threads where people have taken out ECUs or caused other problems via shorting leads. I'm assuming that disconnecting the battery is a must during all this, but are there any other precautions I should keep in mind? One other question. I've got a 2 day trip coming up this weekend. Is this something I need to address ASAP, or can I ride a thousand miles or so without worrying?

I've done some searching on the loom issue & I'm wondering if I'm starting to see symptoms of it rearing it's ugly head. My FI light started coming on Saturday for the first time on a very rough stretch of road. When it did, it was faint/dim. Much less bright than it is with key on & engine off. Bike is an '00. It also was RPM dependent, being brighter at low RPM & dim or going away completely as revs came up. Thoughts before I start tearing the tail down?

Thanks for the info. If I can get 30k out of 'em, I'll put them in. Perhaps I'll use some silicone on the seals just to be sure they seal & be a little more proactive about greasing axles & checking bearings at tire changes. Edit: Just for the record, mine were pretty much just as described by others. Rear seals seemed to fit well but the fronts were on the small side. Hopefully silicone is enough to keep 'em in place.

What kind of longevity are people seeing from the All Balls wheel bearings? Mine are going in this weekend, but if they're crap, I'll wait to order OEM...

For those that are having the issue, is there anything that happened during removal or installation that could contribute to this? I've got a set of All Balls on the way nexxt week & will be doing front + rear for the first time. Got 40k out of the stockers & hope to do at least as well with the replacements.

I've used a canyon dancer with my Heli-bars at least a handful of times for 400+ miles with no issues. If you're compressing the forks enough to bend the Heli's, you're using too much tension on the tie downs IMHO. You could also run tie downs around the lower triple but the mounting angle to the tie down hooks in my trailer causes the straps to rub just inside of the lower cowl. I also use a Sport Chock, which helps to stabilize the bike. You don't need to compress the front so much. Hope that helps.

I've played around with pressure alot in the last 3 seasons and it does depend on the tire. When I first started running Pilot Powers the rear was toast at 3500 running 34F 36R but they stuck like glue. Started running 40F 42R slabbing, & 36F 38R in twisties. Got an extra 1000 to 1500 miles out of each rear & still got 1 front to 2 rears. They still stuck like glue in the dry but I lost a bit of wet grip. Not sure if that's due to lower carcass temps, smaller contact patch, or both. Now I'm trying the Road 2s. At 40F 42R they seem like I could get 10k per rear & I've only slid 'em a few times. Once in the wet passing on turn exit crossing the yellow. Once in the dry being greedy with throttle leaned over, tires still cold. The few times I've dropped them down to 38R 36F grip levels seems awefully close to where the powers were and they take a little less time to warm up. FWIW I tend to run front of I or back of A at track days, depending on org, & stay within my comfort zone on the street.

Thanks Rich! Your write up is very helpful BTW :icon_clap:

I've tried the NEXXT method & it worked great. I just replaced sprockets with my 2nd chain but did not pull & clean the clutch connecting rod. Should I be worried?

Research is fine, just so long as it's not a NASA mission! We can't have you launching bikes off the side of a mountain, ya know. Besides, you'll never reach escape velocity that way

I'm sleepin at the switch over here. Just noticed you're back on a Bird. What the hell happened to the Fizzer?? Oh & Stan, your garage is pimp!!

Who has the best pricing on OEM sprockets? Ron Ayers maybe :icon_think:

So with the 6mm shim I'm guessing slack should be slightly more than spec since the swinger is further down without a load???

GTFO & keep the bike! I'm sure we'd all hate to see you Birdless. Besides, where else you gonna post whore Oh, & bump for a clean '00.

'00 with 31k 2 ccts, one of which wasn't necessary (Thanks Hobi!) & the wax element was not setting cold idle correctly a few years back. Everything else has been oil, tires, bulbs, & brakes. Got 29k & change out of the stock pads. Thought that was pretty good...

That really makes me miss mine! Too close to the 'Bird to justify pulling the trigger, but I'd love to have one just the same.

+1 Anybody with lower idle speeds noticing shorter plug life??

I also seem to get high 30's under normal conditions. Lots of tanks in the 37.xx range while sport touring. In mountain twisties or high speed slab runs that drops to between high 20s & low 30's. Bike is an '00 with Arrow 4-2-1 + K&N, but stock ECU.

My understanding is that the 2CT is softer in the sides than the standard Power, but that both have similar compounds near the center. If that's the case & you're pushing the front end, you may want to try the 2CT up front.

My '00 has some play in the cluster. Not so much that it moves noticably while riding but enough I can move it by hand.

With Pilot Powers I was running 42r/40f for slabbing, 38r/36f for mixed use & would drop down to 34r/32f in good twisties. That tire has more than enough grip for my street pace. I'm hoping these are similar with side grip but I'm wondering if I'll have to drop pressures down to see it. Headed to the gap with a fresh pair this week, so we'll see. If anybody else has feedback before then please post up!

What have you been running for pressures in the twisties and when slabbing? How quickly do they come to temp?