SwampNut

You should watch this, under five minutes. The nutrition you're being advised towards is also coincidentally super healthy for other reasons. https://nutritionfacts.org/video/flashback-friday-pros-and-cons-of-a-macrobiotic-diet/?mc_cid=b924a75ac9&mc_eid=6bf37ade4d

A parallel battery is how I "jump start" my intelligent chargers. It can even be a tiny battery, I once used the one out of the alarm panel to do it. I recently did a thread about my generator battery. A week or so on the restorer and it's starting the generator almost like new. I keep forgetting that restorer is sometime magic.

Beans are a really high-value, nutritionally complete food. Everyone should eat lots of them, but most people get some gas and/or intestinal upset with them. I've figured out how to remove the gas. Basically, soak and cook the shit out of them. When I make a bean stew, chili, or just plain beans, I soak them for at least 18 hours first, preferably longer. Then I pressure cook them for 35-45 minutes. Then change the Instant Pot to slow cook and let them simmer for a few hours. Zero gas. If I skip any one of those steps, some gassiness comes back. I've read that salting your beans before cooking also makes them come out less tender. I can't find any pattern to this using potassium chloride, and I don't use sodium salt, so not sure if it's true.

It's right in the name. I've always been fond of it.

After-effects. Also, anal and retentive have a hyphen in them sometimes, and sometimes not, depending on context. But there is ALWAYS an Oxford comma. Always. And a wise man once said, "the quote goes outside the punctuation!" So we'll see you in the nutrition/diet sub-forum? The leg thing is funny. I'd say you also don't *need* fish, but I do enjoy salmon on occasion. On the nutritional scale it's at the very top from the animal products. Now we need a low-carb fried centipede recipe. Maybe modify Philip's fried chicken batter with oat flour instead of white? Show it to the dietician for a laugh. "Too many legs?"

It spawned a huge discussion, which I tried to find and failed. I had one like that, and now Tim has it. It wasn't what I wanted for parts holding, needs a solid top to deal with lots of small things, and easy reach. I did some work on the ebike yesterday with a friend and we loved the tray. He ordered one. That's the norm, and I was having the opposite problem. They are all way bigger than I wanted.

I've been wanting one for years. I'd bitch whenever I was working then forget to really get something otherwise. And they are not easy to find. Something like the rolling stool but with a hard surface, taller, and tool holders. All my searches found very little beyond some pretty mediocre looking and very expensive items, that were larger than needed. Like big rolling carts. I want something for light work and small tools and parts for bikes (both kinds), light car work, woodworking, etc. I just got this, and will use it today for the first time. I'm very optimistic. I bought magnetic strips to put around three sides. The hair color trays are magnetic, and my existing magnetic trays will obviously also stick. Height is adjustable for both sitting and standing. Beer and cigar holders to be added. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09C3J5J47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Yeah if I had options for a stud, bolt, nut, etc., that would have been the top choice. For a spark plug, drill the stud, wrap some electrical tape around a welding rod, and put that in for the electrode. Duh. You're welcome.

If I ever get/make a replacement part, this can be strength tested. It's not anodized, so I didn't use any primer. So far nobody else has come up with the part, since of course, you shouldn't be able to crash damage that piece I guess.

Well, the seller of the bike frames said they no longer have the damaged part for sale alone. So, this becomes the permanent fix, glad I put a lot of care into it. Or I need to try to contact a few others and see what they have, if we can communicate at all. I did make a mild attempt at something similar, but no go. The space is super small between the swingarm and cassette (gears). Still, I had a few of the half-thickness nuts that might do it. But also, did you know that bicycle shifters are held on by a very weird bolt with a very specific notched/indexed plastic washer that snaps into a ride in the bolt, and there's a specific shoulder to keep a certain tension on it? I couldn't duplicate that without a machine shop. The part that was damaged is a small replaceable plate that costs $4, and only exists in China, and maybe not sold alone any more at all. It would be trivial to make a new one though, with a mill. And possible with a hacksaw and a Dremel and a lot of drinking.

It went alright. The second time. Did you know it's REALLY hard to cut whatever these Chinesium coils are made of? I'm riding again, until the new part arrives from China in a few weeks. I tried to back one out, no fucking way. But what my friend had reported is them continuing to walk in with each tightening. In my case, all the stars aligned and the Chinesium alloy bike frame cut like butter with the included 10.3mm bit, using a hand drill super slow. So I was able to leave a shoulder for it to bottom out against. EDIT: I'm such a racist. Package says made in Thailand. So it's Thaitanium, not Chinesium. Anyway, these kits on Amazon are solid, recommended. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VZF6GH5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

And I thought I'd really earned my Bun Burner Gold 1500 by doing it on back roads with Mr. No More Than Five Over.

I now respect them just slightly less. Using TM, I can 99% achieve everything else you said. Without...maybe sometimes. It can also be the difference between the hole exit being clean and not catching, versus welding itself to the bit and ripping a thumbnail clean off. Oh yeah, always DOUBLE clamp your work.

I use the paste Loc-tite, not sure if it would come through or not. I'd install the bolt with anti-sieze which should prevent adhesion. Any Loc-tite that comes through wouldn't need to be chased though, it won't harden if it's exposed to air. It's an anaerobic adhesive. There's just no clear answer on this, lots of varying opinions. I marginally lean towards using it because I've had coils walk before, and a friend who ran a moto shop said he always uses it and had no issues. He also had some coils walk under usage.

Henckel says generous amounts of high-strength. Obviously they have a vested interest in selling you more, but they are generally a trustworthy company with great products. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/applications/all-applications/product-application/install-helicoil.html EDIT: To be double clear, this is for the coil to female thread part. This is NOT for the bolt to coil part.

Henckel of course says that it really helps and makes everything better. Of course they would. Some people claim, but I didn't find, that Heli-coil doesn't recommend it. Also, I'm going to be using an off brand, not actually Heli-coil brand. It's a 10mm bolt going into generic Chinese aluminum that was damaged. I can *probably* drill the hold so that there's a shoulder left to stop the coil, as the bolt only goes in a few scant MM, maybe 5-8, and the material is around 12-14mm total. The bolt will need to be removed for service on a very rare occasion, maybe a few times in the entire life of the part, if that. I always put anti-sieze on the bolt going into a Heli-coil.

I needed to make a 10.5 mm hole in a 1/4" or thicker plate the other day. Good bit, and Tap Magic, and...magic. So easy. The bit was exceptional too, and I keep wondering what brand it is to get more. Moriah bought it a decade ago, forgot where. I still approach steel drilling and tapping with fear, but shouldn't. Another hot tip on tapping...using my right-angle battery drill changed everything. It can spin slow enough, and gives you the ability to stay straight while apply straight pressure. Regular gun drills always push sideways. I wish someone made a gun drill that works like a Chiappa revolver, rather than having the bit off center. Seeing that extraction is drilling and sorta tapping, I gave it a shot when I had an extraction problem, and it worked great.

What Oscar said.

Tap Magic oil is really magic for drilling, tapping, and extraction (which is kinda both).

Galfer Blacks, #1054, are all around good. Not super great at one thing, solid in the wet, not aggressive, not grabby like HH, and basically zero rotor wear. If your rotor is just close to done, and not truly fucked, these will basically mean you won't replace it. The Blacks are just soft and progressive except you won't get the hard bite at full power. https://www.solomotoparts.com/Galfer-Semi-Metallic-Rear-Brake-Pads-for-CBR1100XX-I-Super-Blackbird-97-03/

This is like an oil discussion, there are so many variables. Some of my favorite pads were not so great in rain, which you get a lot more of, but don't know if you ride in the rain. The EBC HH are good, but not without their own issues. Are you riding fast in twisties, or being old and driving slow to the grocery store like the rest of us?

$140 lithium is a no-brainer against an $80 AGM?

This is why a $100 lithium is a no-brainer against a $60 AGM.