SwampNut

If you drive onto boards, you can then do the entire tire without moving the vehicle. I bought two cleaners, the wheel/tire and the rubber/tire cleaners. I can't figure out which is better or what they do differently. I assume "wheel" implies brake dust removal, but obviously, EV...no brake dust. And I have ceramic on the wheels so everything falls off. They don't seem to do anything different on the tires. The Adam's tire brush is perfect. Good ergonomics to really scrub hard. I've broken two generic household brushes on tires. The applicators...both are great. Get them. Stop using whatever generic things like I was. First thing is they save SO MUCH product! I applied my usual amount, which is kinda eaten up by generic sponge/applicator things. The tire applicators made it clear it was way too much. Both the foam and the brush do a great job. I think I lean towards the brush because it easily gets into the little crevice between the bead and the sidewall without getting any on the wheel. The sponge doesn't, it just gets material all over the wheel. The brush also has that holder which feeds my laziness and need for organization (no cleaning, just hang it up).

It's a joke, a neighbor came over and said, "I thought you wanted white????" Was confused. That's the under-side. The material looks like exactly what I want, just under a mm thick, waterproof, and my attempts to damage it with tools has been really well resisted. So I just needed "horizontal" melamine and I had been buying vertical grade because that's all that's in the stores. Shockingly, I seem to maybe have all the materials needed to complete the project.

SRSLY???

I've been really happy with this, even off road.

Upgraded bit holders for Dewalt drivers. The stock ones hold a single bit, and they are finicky as hell to use. Two types, to see what's better. My old table saw had a small storage rack on the overhead tube that was very useful. It's wasted space, in an area where I very often want to put things to get them off the table which is also the outfeed. I got these kitchen drawer/cabinet organizers, and printed a tube clamp. Sure, there would be something like at at a store, but it would take longer to drive than to print. Also would not be the proper trim color to go with my table saw's trim color, bright red. And I needed to run a cable with premade ends and protect it/cover the hole, so...

Factory farming will eventually kill us. Dept of agriculture says 74% of CA dairy herds have bird flu. We just need it to cross to pigs and humans, and 1918 all over again.

Transparent aluminum?

No, it's a live animal transfer. ...So far...

Oh yeah, forgot the other test results. Cortisol got better shortly after light exposure. In this instance it's a "go" hormone, and if you don't get light, no-go. I was avoiding early bright light since I hate mornings. Wrong thing. We think this is related to my feeling of being jittery by 8-9, and ended up cutting out 1/3 of the normal coffee, added in various teas and decaf to suit the mood for a hot drink while I sit outside. They were surprised at having no testosterone change, but I'm good. Middle of the road, high is not good either.

You just bred a little more OCD, in a good way. I haven't used my spectrometer to measure screens, only bulbs. This is my draft of testing lights, for them to publish (early rough draft, no judgment). Color temperature is the most common measurement of light quality, but it’s misleading in the context of sleep and activating visual receptors. It’s an average of the light spectrum describing how you consciously perceive color. It is not at all what your individual eye receptors are receiving. You can have a mix of 480nm (wake up spectrum), 560 (golden daylight), and 670 nm (sleep spectrum) which add up to appear just neutral white. However your receptors are being tickled with the “wake up” and “sleep” signals you cannot perceive consciously. This is why the ultra-narrow 670nm bulb is effective, and why a color-changing bulb, even set to reddish, may also produce blue. Good night bulb with perfect blue blocking: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D9GY9T4F https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BVYH8L2T An ok version with some blue leakage (I have it in places where I won’t see it often): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CJF64PQ1 These are unacceptable, with significant blue spectrum, and overall color temp above 2000k: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D31RXRP5 This is a specific “therapy” bulb with an extremely narrow red wavelength (670nm). It’s not a color temperature; it is very strictly only producing an extremely narrow band. This is in my bedside lamp. I feel like seeing it actually makes me feel calm. I can’t really explain it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D8RHHXYC For daytime spaces, I went with 10,000k lights that promised significant energy in the 480-500nm range. These both delivered well. I have them in my office and in another space I use during the day. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CQF76CSD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQKH5MN Nanoleaf color-changing bulbs can be tuned to produce a good red with almost no blue.

A great question. This is an area of contention, because older screens are far more problematic. I have no older screens. Apple has been making screens capable of extremely low blue light for some time, and I have always had that feature turned on. I do very little desktop computing in the evening/night, although my desktop monitor is still able to go very dim and warm. I read on the iPad before sleep, and that really helps me get to sleep. Reading always has, but paper is too eye-straining so I end up with muscle strain which is obviously counter-productive. I re-tuned the TV also. In business it has always made me insane when someone would only commit a shitty budget and "try" labor to a concept. Fuck it, don't bother. Just don't "try" it's already failed. It's like building a plane and then saying you'll see if it flies with the old scrap engine before committing to a real attempt. My challenge now is that success breeds the desire to chase that dragon to the ultimate extreme. When is good, good enough? Anything worth doing is worth over-doing.

Um, WTF spec is this?

Oh yeah, I work with 208v shit in datacenters/server rooms and it's all taped to hell. My home shop subpanel is well taped because shit, I got a LOT of free #4 wire and was not about to buy the right color. You know the price.

I've had fucked up sleep all of my life. Tried all of the things that everyone says to, with little help. Somehow I got connected with a startup health measurement and improvement company that wants to target improved sleep primarily through light, particularly, early in the day. I was one of five early beta testers. Well, the results have been astronomical, subjectively. I'm sleeping better than I've slept even on drugs and supplements, but taking nothing. Daytime energy is high and daytime fatigue is very low, even if I abuse myself. It's been a life-changer. Today we had our wrap-up call where they shared the actual objective measurements of sleep/wake related hormones. I did testing before starting and then at the end. My levels have broken their testing. The "ideal" line will now be moved to the "be like Carlos line" she joked. Their lab has no way to measure this, they are going to see if it can be done by another lab. I'm now on their company Slack and will be helping others when needed. Part of it is insanity, OCD, and the philosophy that moderation is the key to failure. "Trying" a little change is retarded. When it fails you have no clue whether the whole thing was wrong, or just your half-assed "try" caused the failure. I was the only person so far to do 100% of what they said every single day, and document/measure absolutely everything, and then...go well beyond that. I bought a bunch of new light bulbs that incorporate the proper wavelengths (which is related to but critically different from color temp, that everyone else talks about). I make sure to get the daylight wavelengths by 7:15am, and never be exposed to them after 7pm. I have night wavelength lights all over the places that need to have light in the evening, and programmed all of our home controls to minimize lighting at night. When I'm hanging out in the shop or working late, it's with new subdued lights that look nearly orange, with all blue light completely blocked. I checked with a spectrometer. I tried several bulbs with that claim, but they showed blue in the spectrometer, fuckers. Day bulbs are 480nm, super-white (around 10,000k color, but specifically producing 480nm). Seeing the hard objective numbers match my subjective feel was amazing. Blue is my new number. Green was their previous goal, now it's going to be my number as the goal. Gray was my baseline below idea. Meanwhile daytime melatonin suppression is now so good that they can't measure that either. It's below 1, they can't measure 0.

It already is, just don't buy it from big pharma. 20 years. I am not actually sure what the legal details are with these peptides, because they are endogenous and easily made. I kind of wonder if we will see these patents tested in court. On top of that however, there are new versions of related peptides being made quickly now. Semaglutide is old, though the patent was only issued a few years ago. Tirzepatide is the hot new thing. Now we have retatrutide which doesn't have the patent issued yet. Each one improves on the other, so the real question is when will the older ones get cheap because everyone wants the new one? Luckily they don't.

Indeed it is. Like the guy who thought I did everything on a bandsaw because I often told people how great it was to use instead of the tables aw. People assume shit, I guess. I ordered the Wilsonart 3'x8' laminate. If it sucks, $60 thrown away. I will need to do a substrate, tempered hardboard seems most logical. Or just go straight onto the top MDF layer, which is more commitment, but everyone thinks this laminate lasts forever.

Yeah, I've seen taped wires a lot. My house...not done. It was a rush job in the idiotic boom of 2005.

LOL, ok, but vaccines and peptides...not related... And the Venn diagram of anti-vaxxers and people on semaglutide for morbid obesity seems to overlap a lot.

Mildly annoying that these are now always referred to as "weight loss drugs" and not what they really we meant for; diabetes control. https://futurism.com/neoscope/glp-1-ozempic-benefits-map?utm_source=tldrnewsletter Looking at other disorders in the data ranging from Parkinson's disease and Alzheimer's to kidney disease and opiate addiction, Al-Aly and his team found that those who were on GLP-1 medications saw significant improvement across a staggering range of health concerns — and far beyond anything clearly linked to weight or blood sugar.

That's fast. But it's Fedex so it might be here tomorrow, or could be found in a coyote den in Tucson on Saturday. This brush is so weird. It's made of bristles but the surface looks like a solid, and feels like ultra-dense velvet.

This is probably great for the uses that others mentioned like a reloading bench. It's not for my use because those countertops are particle board inside. I have used damaged, clearance, or cut off counters for a lot of great things, and your idea should be considered for all those other uses. I don't really know what to expect here, but now that I have the right wording down for searching, lots of people do it. My layered MDF approach is pretty common, and highly thought of. But the simple "use a melamine top or hardboard" had me wondering WTF went wrong with my melamine top. I don't know why you thought that.

Probably not possible at all, it sort of self heals or closes on a blade. None of these materials can be hand cut.

Fuck, I feel dumb. Could have just asked an AI. Formica is melamine. Wilsonart (linked above) is melamine. In fact all the common names from countertop materials are just melamine. The top I used is a single layer of kraft paper impregnated with melamine, and that's why it's fragile. Formica is many layers, making it waterproof and mostly chemical-proof. This is what I need, it will get hit with solvents, adhesives, beer, whisky, and yak jizz. But, none of this: Acids and Alkalis
Strong acids and alkalis can corrode, etch, or permanently discolor Formica laminate. Some examples include: • Ceramic cooktop cleaners • Oven cleaners • Drain cleaners • Lime scale removers • Toilet bowl cleaners • Tub and tile cleaners IOW, probably ideal for this. Also this is just one of many reasons for white. I draw and make notes, then use spirits or alcohol to remove. I can even draw full scale items to template/glue up.