SwampNut

No shit. And I guess I'd be one of them, since I do this shit for a living...

I was going to try to get something going with them, but the idiots don't have an e-mail address. And dealing with TBR is often like dealing with Corbin... :roll:

You have a loose/corroded/dirty connection, that's pretty simple to diagnose. I would start with the battery connections (remove/clean/replace), then the things the battery cables connect to. Note that this type of connection problem is HELL on your electronics, so you could very well fry something if this goes on.

ROFL Fuck that was funny.

No shit. Haven't gone in to buy any more yet, can't wait. My room mate just bought 3 jugs at the old price. Say, what's the best way to dispose of the 30 gallons of used oil we have? I was going to pour it into the ground, but someone said that was bad for the environment. He suggested burning it. Maybe I should just flush it.

I had considered that, since we have some expertise available. Anyone else have an opinion on it?

Are we going to have the "woman's hands" thread again...?

The 520 won't last long, and is rated for MUCH less HP than your bike produces. A broken chain can have extremely bad consequences. Meanwhile you won't feel the difference on a bike this heavy anyway.

Wear glasses and gloves. Push the Schrader slowly. There's about 45psi in there, and you'll get around two ounces out. What brand car? Most Ford and GM will need a spring connector tool to remove fuel fittings. Almost impossible to release without that. I can lend you a set of spring clip tools if you need them.

That's a little pricey. I don't see the problem with the standard NEP control, since the very action of braking also naturally rolls of the throttle. I've got at least 200k miles on bikes with the NEP, with never any issue or close call. I even use it in the city.

A really simple, quick variation on a low-carb "pizza" is to make it without a crust. Get a small plate, put down a layer of pepperoni to cover it, a layer of cheese, sprinkle some "italian spice" (mixed stuff you can buy in a bottle), then another layer of pepperoni and cheese. Microwave. Now you have "pizza" in 3 minutes. Substitute other meats as desired. Add a layer of sauce if desired, but watch for sugar content in pizza/spaghetti sauces.

That's a LOT of rise! I think the suspension linkage ratio is nearly 3:1, so you have nearly an inch of rise now.

Me too. What he said.

I've ridden in 122 degrees in Phoenix. The bike didn't overheat. Get over it.

Bullshit. Most probably are, but there are a number of others proven effective. Redline, Marvel, etc.

That's how Motorsports dented my tank and scratched one of the bags; wetback lotboy banged it while washing it. And I had specifically told them not to wash it.

Stock rear. Don't bother replacing it with your first chain replacement; it will easily do double that. For the front I use an AFAM 16 tooth. For stock teeth, use the stock sprocket.

To cut it down you will need a link remover/pin press. The master link is included. Some give you a clip master, which you should replace with a peened master. 17t is stock. I like the AFAM 16t. The stock front is more durable than the AFAM or other aftermarket. The stock rear is VERY durable, and will easily go 40k. To cut it you can simply use a die grinder or dremel. Or the pin press. To attach it you will need a sideplate press and pin peening tool (mine is 2-in-one, some are not). You might be best off putting on a clip link to get it to a good shop. It's easy to fuck up this part of the work. It needs to be tight enough to properly peen the pins but not so tight that it squeezes the O-rings.

Carbs? Huh, I've heard of those. Think I saw them in a museum once. I'm guessing it's a vent hose, but hard to tell from the description alone. Do the other carbs have similar hoses? Where on the carb body do they attach? I see signs of Motorsports having worked on your bike... :roll:

Maxima Chain Wax, and never clean it. Looks like I'm at just under 14k actually. While it hasn't stretched much, it has a lot of tight spots. The wheelies don't help that at all I guess.

Nice rant, I have to agree. But don't get me started on another consumer rant... :shock: You're plain out of chain karma there. In fact, in your next lifetime you're going to come back as an abused motorcycle chain. I think the average life for the 530ZVM is around 17-20k. I've gone 21k, and it was thoroughly shagged, and also replaced one at 18 before it really had to be replaced (but was tired of the noise and surging). I think I'm at 15k on a VM (ZVM out of stock, got a great discount), and it's time. The indicator marks don't say it is stretched, but it's got tight spots and surges.

You can't smell a wet clutch burning unless you're REALLY smoking the fuck out of it. Maybe tire slide, but not clutch. I've noticed the smell with a few high-octane fuels run in bikes that should be running standard octane. Since you're not fully burning the fuel, it would make sense there would be more smell.

If I'm doing the change with a hot motor, I use a flat wrench which is pictured in the oil change page in the FAQ section of the site.

I'm about to repair my Autocom piece of shit headset cable for the 27th time. Go J&M. Autocom sucks.

The stock pads are slightly different, but replacement pads are all the same. Sounds odd, but the difference in the stockers is irrelevant. I've use OEM, Galfer Green, Galfer Black, EBC HH, and SBS Sintered Street. Galfer Green is my favorite, but they are mushy in the rain. Galfter Black is my close second choice, with no rain issues. Both are much gentler on the rotors than EBC, and much more predictable.