SwampNut

CVCC = Compound Vortex Controlled Combustion, though I've also read it as Centrifugal Vortex Controlled Combustion. Sure you lose power at altitude. I can't really wheelie above 7k, no matter which gas. Explain how octane could change that.

No, you're not boiling your fluid, unless Nicky Hayden has been riding your XX. How to do it? Stick a screwdriver between the pad backing and rotor, twist gently and slowly. No, won't hurt the rotor, been doing it for a long time.

I checked both mileage and HP on a dyno. No change in either. The mileage is unscientific, since so many variables can change it. I tried it probabably 5 tankfulls. The compression thing also has other variables. Honda has always been a pioneer of super-efficient head designs which allow higher compression with lower octane. Trivia...know where the "Civic" name for their cars came from in the 70's?

I don't think Honda specifies one. I have used Redline SI because it is the only one Mazda allows for my RX-7. Figured that was a decent endorsement.

You should not use 89, that is true. You should use 87. FI bikes can backfire; there is no connection between FI and backfires. It is typically caused by a lean condition, not fuel octane. I'm guessing you have aftermarket pipes and/or air cleaner, but did not remap the fuel curve? It can also happen if you have unburnt fuel leaving the motor and firing in the exhaust. If your plugs are old, you've got unburnt fuel in the exhaust.

I've gotta add this to the FAQ... Disc brakes work by very slightly retracting the pistons when you release pressure. This is caused by the shape of the lip on the piston seals. That lip gets "stuck" in a position and pulls them back farther than they need to be. If you manually move them and re-seat them by simply pumping the brakes back up, they will sit closer to the rotors.

Push the pads back every 1k or so, you'll be surprised how it improves brake bite.

Usually that means some sort of damage to the tubes. Scratches and such. I'd recommend scrubbing the tubes with 2000 grit sandpaper.

I have monochrome monitor in the closet right now. Wish I still had a card to run it.

How have you been cleaning and lubing it?

No shit? Hadn't heard of it. I wish I could find sugar free lemonade and tea when I'm on the road. Why is it every damn tea in a convenience store has sugar?!?

That's perfectly normal for a bad chain. It has loose/tight spots so it does that. It can even make it seem like your motor is surging. Mine is like that right now.

I have yet to find a heated grip that feels good on the hands (they are all too hard). So I used dual-element heated inserts under my gel grips, best of both worlds. They are $27 from heeters.com. Details are on the site in the mods section.

Time is more important than mileage, but both do count. If you change over to 5.1 fluid (not 5!) you can go a bit longer between changes. Also, the change really is easy as long as you don't run the reservoir dry, so there is no air bleeding. Just pump new stuff through until it is completely clean as it exits the bleeder.

Yah got a ruler, right...? Easiest way to measure that is to put the spring on a flat surface, and put something flat on top, then measure between those two.

A dial caliper for diameter and length within a couple MM should be just fine. Measure both ends for diameter, just to be sure it's not off or warped.

I would do it, especially the first time. These fluids are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb water. This is where internal damage comes from. Most brake experts say that if people would just change the fluid regularly, they'd be out of business.

Spring free length and inside diameter. Needs to be quite accurate. This is the stock 900 spring, right?

According to chain manufacturers, that's incorrect. They say you should never use a brush on a chain. It forces crap into the o-rings.

Pet peeve/rant and clarification... The stock battery is not maintenance free. It sure is "maintenance proof" but not maintenance free. It NEEDS to be maintained, but they fucking sealed it so you can't. The last battery I bought at Wal-mart (for another bike) had standard caps so you could maintain it. Sorry to hear they've gone to the bullshit so-called maintenance free crap.

Been using Maxima Chain Wax for 10 years and 165,000 miles. I absolutely NEVER clean the chain. I spray the wax on it using a carefully calculated interval (IE, when it starts to get noisy I make a note to spray it on next time I stop). I wheelie the bike nearly every time I ride it. I'm getting 17-21k on my chains before they hit the "replace" marks.

Ok, we had 11 "yes" votes before, but only 5 in this thread? If you've changed your mind and no longer want one, please say so. Also...anybody got a stock 900RR spring off the shock that they could measure?

Because Honda considers the good will and positive comments to be cheap advertising, while Suzuki generally doesn't give a rat's ass about customers. The others are in between. Bend the end of a coat hanger into a V, slip it between the tube and the seal, twist, pull. If it's too tight for that, stick a sheet metal screw into the seal and pull.

Mine was bad for about 45k miles. No problem, and I barely noticed it. Putting on the X11 model did make it much quieter, and I'm glad I did it. After another 7k or so, the new CCT has had no problems, while the first one started making noise at under 1k.

It is caused by heat expanding the air inside the holes in the rotor, but the air is held in place by the pad. As the hole moves out of the pad, the air "pops" out. This effect can be minimized with pads that have a vertical slot in the middle. It's all perfectly normal.