SwampNut

Unfortunately, that's wrong. Just recently discovered that while working on mine. For one, drilling the rebound bleed hole is wrong. And you have to build the shim stack to its absolute maximum. I'm trying to get all the details from my shop now that I've ridden the bike and know it is just right. BTW, you did both kits right? Damping and rebound? Dealing with RT is almost like dealing with Corbin... :roll:

Improper torque? Did you check to make sure the fork tubes themselves are even in height?

Don't do it! We experimented with that at my local shop, and ended up brazing the hole. Leave it like it is and only tune by using lighter oil.

Never heard of it, unless it's really the cam chain. I'll be in Phoenix tomorrow night, through Friday. Thursday night is beer night with the PSC (Phoenix Sportbike Club), you want to meet me there with your bike and I'll have a listen? I'll bet it's the cam chain tensioner. Details: 8-14 Happy Hour and Beer Night Where: Carlos O'Briens - Frank Lloyd Wright and Scottsdale Road When: 5:30 to whenever. What: Awesome Happy hour specials, beer, food, etc

No, and yes. I plan to get on it next week, don't have time this week. We'll have to figure up the final commitments, get the cash together, then do the order.

2.5 with stock valving??? Never heard that. Racetech recommends stock oil with stock valves, and 5 with their valves.

I'm trying to understand the thinking, or why people are unhappy, that's all. Shit, I may give it a try just because I'm not smart enough to leave well enough alone. But I'm still curious.

That article talks about lack of power and feel, etc... But every time I swap bikes with a 12 or busa owner, they rave about the feel and power of my brakes. So I just don't understand the complaints. Maybe people are riding around with poorly-bled systems? Maybe those other bike's brakes are horrible and I don't know what I'm missing? I don't know, I've stoppied with two fingers comfortably, and I've controlled front lockups in the rain quite well, so, like I said, I just don't understand the complaints.

Call HRCA and have them tow it. They took it there, not your fault.

Yeah, that would be a basic requirement...but are any of them NOT 12v?

Put a ring connector on one side of the fuse, and a butt splice on the other. Put a ring on the ground from the power cord. Use the butt splice to connect the positive from the power cord to the fuse. Put the ring from the fuse on the + battery terminal, and the negative on the - side of the battery. If you're in no hurry, PM me your address and I'll mail you the parts you need so you don't have to go buy a box of each. You'll still need a crimper though ($7-ish).

Do you want constant power or just power with ignition? Do you care? You can pick up ignition power from the back of the headlight with just a couple of spade connectors. They slide in between the plug plastic and the terminals, easily leeching power from them. You can do constant on by putting a couple of ring terminals under the battery bolts. In either case, a fuse near the source is good.

Don't your plug sockets have rubber inserts to hold the plug? All of mine do. The wire boots are the worst part of the whole job, admittedly. They could have molded a nipple on top of those things to grab and pull.

The weather corroding the discs I suppose? Very odd. Never heard of that. The rears wear faster than the fronts. We've talked about theories why, but I don't know that there's a definitive answer.

Uh, it's the most complex, round-about way to do it. From above is the KISS method. Plus while you're in there you should check/replace the air filter anyway. As far as tools, I find my combo of socket-3" extension-swivel-6" extension to be better than the stock wrench. Photos and details in the FAQ section.

5k. Maybe less, but that seems a number that nobody says is unsafe.

??? Did you see the article and photos in the FAQ on this site? Just take off the tank and airbox, easy. Don't want to mess with the ram air tubes? Why not? There's nothing magic about them. And you really don't mess with them, just pull the airbox off. They are not even attached, just a slip fit.

I have NEVER in my life heard of a disc wearing out in 50k miles. I asked on a couple other boards and nobody else has heard of it either. Especially with Honda pads which are pretty gentle on rotors. I ride in town and commute a lot, and you can see what my wear numbers are above, even with the much-harsher EBC pads for most of the bike's life. Did you measure the rotors yourself, or did a dealer tell you they were worn out? Something is not right.

With steel and 530, I'm finding the front is pretty worn by 15k, and definitely bad by 20k. The stock rears will easily do double that.

Which chain did you have stock, do you remember? The DID or the RK?

Wow, so your bike will do what...732 MPH...?

One of the mags did a ram air test once and came up with 3-5 HP typically. The XX and busa were most efficient.

215#, plus the Beetle Bags. I'm not bottoming when I ride solo, but it's definitely too soft. With even a small passenger I can bottom it on hard turns. Jason, you should run your numbers through the calculator on the RaceTech site and see what it recommends.

I'd still like to know how you wore them out. What was their measurement? How many sets of pads, and what kind of pads, have you gone through?