SwampNut

Plastic welding. I use a butane soldering iron I bought at Lowe's which includes a "plastic cutting" tip. For "solder" I use the black part of CD cases. Works great, fast holding time, and done right you don't even see the crack from the paint side.

It's much hotter here and I don't have these issues. I suspect you could have some other problems. Could be as simple as air in the system. Also, how old is your coolant mix? Redline says Water Wetter is only good for a year. I run 20% coolant and 4 ounces of Water Wetter per their recommendations.

Another good tip. I too gave up on the Subway deal as too small. Seems like everyone has low-carb options these days, but here are a few of my favorites: El Pollo Loco salads, good, cheap. Baja Fresh, a little more pricey but excellent quality/taste KFC salads, decent, cheap

Maybe you shouldn't "quit" but always moderate your carbs. That's what I do, and I'm stable at my weight. I'd like to lose more, so I may do another deep low-carb regimen for a few months. What I did was extreme low carb for one month (under 20g/day), then very slowly increase to under 40 for a couple months, then maybe 50-60 for another couple. I lost 40 pounds the first month or so, then a little more. I'm now 50 down from where I started and level. Now I'm eating up to 100/day and feel like it is too much though, as my blood sugar fluctuates too much (borderline diabetic). I think a lifetime diet of lower-than-recommended carbs is healthy. I've seen a lot of evidence that our "normal" carb intake is too high in general.

I use Two Peaks Health & Diet Manager because it has a Pocket PC component. I don't find that something solely on my computer is very useful, since I usually don't have that with me when I eat or shop.

Nearly always. No aftertaste. Though on the downside it has zero flavor at all, totally neutral sweetness. That's kinda weird with some things.

I use some stuff from Home Depot and it keeps everything from growing in the area for about a year. I mix it about 50% stronger than recommended and apply with one of those spray tanks. The product says "All vegetation killer" on the front.

What's really funny (not to those who bought their junk)...is that one of their jammers actually IMPROVED the ability of the police RADAR to lock on!

Started using Mobil 1 15w50 about 48k miles ago...

Cleaning chains is generally bad for them. Unless they're caked with abrasive shit, cleaning does no good and often does harm. At 17k with two riders, you're probably seeing typical life from a chain. I'm getting to about 20k before I change them with the same lube, but never cleaning. I usually let mine get a little worse than you do. I've been using the DID 530 ZVM, which is also one of the OEM chains (they alternated between the RK and DID). I've been considering the RK 530GXW which is the new super-duty chain from them. Always replace the front sprocket with the chain. The rear can outlast two chains. For the front I've been using an AFAM 16 tooth and like that a lot.

And this is a permanent mod?? You're really going to drop HP just to get louder pipes?? :?:

-Cross Drilled Brake Lines- Want improved braking? Why just cross drill those rotors? Introducing KaleCo cross drilled brake lines! Improved airflow through lines provides superior brake cooling. Brake fluid is exposed to cool moving air, almost instantly reducing heat, and providing shorter stopping distances! All lines are made of quality latex. Brake lines come in: Black, Yellow, Red, or Blue. Please specify color when ordering!! Warning!! You must replace ALL brake lines at once as to prevent mismatched pressure feedbacks! You may mix colors. http://www.kalecoauto.com/

Heh, nice one. Cleaning is generally detrimental to the bike, so don't do it unless there are chunks of mud or something like that. Cleaning leads to oxidation. No need to replace brakes if they are good. I would replace things like brake and clutch fluid every two years or so. Go with DOT 5.1; only a few bucks more, stays cleaner longer. Obviously all the usual stuff...have you been doing normal routine maintenance like plugs and air filter?

Pretty unlikely for those bearings to be damaged at that mileage. Do a lot of wheelies? Run it into curbs?

So you can clean and lube it as you should do regularly.

LBS has the effect of making it very hard to lock up, especially the rear. In fact I can't lock mine if I stand on it. I tried during the MSF ERC because the instructor insisted that it could--but no way. It just squats and stops hard.

It's a special odd-sized Torx. A mid-size, like between 40 and 45 I think. I don't remember exactly, been a while. Might not even be the bolt you speak of, but there are one or two special-sized Torx bolts up there. I replaced them with stainless hex bolts long ago.

Longer stopping distance, more likely to lock up the rear in a panic stop, poser points...

That's decorative grass?? :shock: I just pulled a ton of those fucking weeds out of my yard. Green shit growing where there should only be rocks.

Fuckwads. But hey, you can diagnose it yourself with a $15 voltmeter from Radio Shack.

What's that green shit on the ground? You going to clean that up?

I switched both systems to DOT 5.1 and it has stayed clear for nearly three years.

Holy shit, that's the transmogrifier seal! :shock: Put it back, then double-check that your powerband is still in place.

Preferred even. And so yet another thread goes into the sewer...

The SV is no less friendly than the 250. The bigger motor makes it no worse for a starter bike. While she'll probably be fine with the 250 also, the SV is so much more bike all around. Truly the only reason to take the 250 is cash.