SwampNut

Will one of you niggers make up your minds before I eBay it? FUCK

They seem to be fine in our heat, and if your battery is frozen you need to solve it with the help of U-Haul.

Yeah it looks like the drop in replacements have a cutoff, but not a limiter. Unlike things like the e-bikes.

Three different LLMs agree that this is a problem for a bank of batteries, not one battery in a car. HOWEVER, it also said that if you have a very high output alternator, you could exceed the recommended charge rate on a small battery. Bottom line For a single 100Ah LFP replacing a starting battery in a normal car with a stock alternator (~100-150A), the risk is moderate — the alternator's internal resistance and the car's electrical loads naturally limit the current somewhat. For a dedicated house bank charged directly from the alternator, a DC-DC charger is genuinely necessary, not optional.

I've never measured a car/moto/RV battery, but for sure, the BMS in other things like the e-bikes controls the charge current and ramps it up/down. With some I can use an app to force a change within safe limits. "Doesn't add resistance" is pedantically accurate, but what it does do is reduce the voltage until the current goes down. (Basic electronic principles.). Even my benchtop power supply with battery charging has this. Now I need to do more research, but it would make no sense that the BMS could allow unlimited current.

While valid, in my marginal research on this specific thing so far, it should be built into the BMS for a normal load range. Meaning, if you use one "normal" size LFP for a car let's say, its BMS should be limiting current. It would be a problem for something like an RV where you parallel multiple batteries. Do you see it differently? It would probably be cheap to get a massive 0.5 ohm resistor to put in line and limit the current without limiting terminal voltage. (Terminal as in final, not as in the battery terminal.)

Ok, it *is* using FM. I've owned (old) testers that actually did test real current. Looks like these use an estimation method, which is why you get wildly varying results in different cases/metals. Claude Pro: The AC Conductance Method (Electronic Handheld Testers) Most modern shop testers don't clamp the cable — they use AC signal injection to estimate CCA from internal resistance. Conductance testing sends a small AC signal at a single frequency through the battery and measures how it reacts, effectively checking how hard it is for electricity to flow inside — the internal resistance. If resistance is high, the battery isn't working as well. Rotronics An AC conductance tester injects an AC signal between 80 and 100 Hz into the battery. It sees the components of the battery's circuit as one complex impedance, with the majority coming from the first resistor. UnderhoodService At around 90 Hz, electrical noise — both capacitive and inductive — levels out, so the meter gets a clean read on internal resistance. Rotronics Handheld testers induce a momentary high-current pulse that corresponds to the entered CCA value, and Ohm's law calculates the internal resistance from the induced voltage drop. The device then provides a CCA-equivalent reading. Battery University Accuracy Limitations Accuracy has always been in question, and CCA is especially difficult to verify because readings are affected by state of charge, temperature, and other factors. Battery University The battery's temperature could skew results, though most advanced modern testers compensate for this. Rotronics Additionally, a fully charged battery that maintains its CCA rating might still be nearing the end of its useful life UnderhoodService — CCA alone doesn't tell the whole story of battery health.

I was unsure what you were asking before. Most of these testers have a way to put a load on the battery. As Chris said, resistors. Very likely to have a low duty cycle.

Long term review...using it daily is not needed. Every other day is OK but maybe not enough. So it's been two days on one off. My only noticeable unexpected side effect is that my overall GI function is 90% regular now, where it was wildly irregular before. Like it made everything work better, for the first time in my life. Despite the tirzepatide/retatrutide which caused even more problems in regularity.

Fuck lead acid, I have LFP in everything.

This is a half baked idea from something I overheard. Research whether NAC eye drops can help on this at all. I love that misspelling!

Moriah has done this for probably 15 years. It's highly effective for far longer than expected. She's only done it every year or two, maybe longer, and the effects seem to last. Key is finding a person specifically trained for this, and not cosmetic botox. Logging and elimination. Log everything you eat, wear body trackers with high levels of logging like Apple Watch and Oura ring. Get a water logging bottle. Track everything you can. I recommend an app called Guava that helps build correlations over time, from the health data. Remove things from your diet like processed food and sodium, and any other known triggers.

LOL. I like how you lived up to the Jewish joke by changing $2250 to $2200. A Jewish boy asks his father for $50. The father replies, "$40?!? What do you need $30 for? $20 is a lot of money!"

I'm going to sell it, because I'm not even sure why I bought it, metals are not my thing. It's absolutely beautiful, but I dislike have that much "cash" sitting around that is easily lost or whatever. Dunno. Mental issue. Going rate on eBay is a solid, repeatable $2500. Yesterday a shop offered me $1900 but told me not to take his offer, to go to eBay or elsewhere. He said they have to buy low, obviously. He was giving me a high value on spot (junk) gold but doesn't have the ability to give much on coins. Apmex shows $2570 selling price (didn't get a bid from them). So if anyone's interested, how about $2250 insured and shipped?