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Posted

I was changing mine every time. Hell now I change it about every third time. No problems.

Ken

Posted

Can't you just get one from a HomeDepot or Lowes? They're a 14mm something or other. What are they made out of?! I think I get them for something like 14 cents. I've heard quite a few people that never use them at all and have never had a problem.

Posted

replaced my crush washer for the first time at 18,000 miles. Never leaked but bought a 6-pack for .90 cents from Honda just because we all should.

Talking with a Honda mechanic, he told me no problem reusing the old one BUT you have to tighten the drain plug tighter and the threads at the bottom on the motor are not real strong, so the crush washer just makes it so that you dont have to tighten the plug so tight.

For the .15 cost it is worth replacing, least I will from now on.

Posted

DON'T get overenthusiastic with tightening the drain plug. You'll crush the washer beyond any possibility of reuse, and might strip the threads in the sump. Then you'll really hate yourself. Check the washer before reinstalling, and if necessary, clean the flat surfaces by wiping the washer over a piece of very fine (1000 or finer) sandpaper once or twice. Clean the washer thoroughly, and reinstall the plug and washer. Torque the plug only to the value given in the manual (22 lb-ft). Add oil and ride a bit; check the plug, if it doesn't leak, you're OK.

Posted

After 15+ oil changes original washer still refuses to leak.

Posted

You now somewhere on this site someone said ( and I don't know why I never thought of it) you don't have to buy a new washer, all you have to do is aneal the old one.

Take a butain torch and lay the washer on something and heat that baby up until she is red hot, then quit, after it cools it's rejuvinated and ready for use.

Thanks whoever that was!

Posted

How about flip-flopping it every time? Kinda like Bush (There was no connection between Iraq and 9/11). WTF???? :shock: :shock: That was my favorite reason :mad: :mad:

Posted

I've successfully reused copper crush washers by annealing them before reuse: Heat with a blowtorch to red-hot and let cool. The washer work hardens from the tightening and the annealing removes the hardening, making it nice and soft to seal again. Sometimes you have to sand grooves off to make the surface flat.

Works for aluminum too. Just don't overheat to the point of melting (the aluminum won't show any heat color like copper does)

Posted
Torque the plug only to the value given in the manual (22 lb-ft).

22 lb-ft... is that one grunt, or two? I forget...

Posted

Not to belabor the obvious... A wrap or two of teflon plumber's tape on the threads of the bolt, with another more generous wrap at the base of the threads at the washer as it sits against the bolt head (holding the bolt vertically, threads up - allowing gravity to do its magic), will assure a leak-proof seal, and preclude any seizing/galling of the steel threads in the aluminum oil pan. You only need torque the bolt to 18-20 ft-lbs. My '99 is going on five years on the original washer with never a leak or seepage. :wink:

Posted

Man, sometimes it's funny how the most mundane things get so much analysis. But anyway, I reuse them a few times then replace for peace of mind. No big deal. I had one leak once on another bike after about 5 changes, but it was a tiny leak.

Posted

Oil filter wrenches are for pussies. Though I do have to take off my left lower in order to be able to get a good grip on my filter when taking it off by hand.

Posted

I don't use a wrench. I just reach up under my bike and loosen it by hand. I don't even take the fairings off!

Posted

If I'm doing the change with a hot motor, I use a flat wrench which is pictured in the oil change page in the FAQ section of the site.

Posted
You now somewhere on this site someone said ( and I don't know why I never thought of it) you don't have to buy a new washer, all you have to do is aneal the old one.  

Take a butain torch and lay the washer on something and heat that baby up until she is red hot, then quit, after it cools it's rejuvinated and ready for use.  

And....this is much easier and cheaper than replacing the washer?

Posted

On both the XX and the 954 I found that a medium size pipe wrench will fit on the oil filter well enough with out taking the fairing off. On the 54 I do have to spread the fairing at the bottom alittle. Works as good as any filter wrench. Jeff

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