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Oil Change time


Ronnie

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Can't you just get one from a HomeDepot or Lowes? They're a 14mm something or other. What are they made out of?! I think I get them for something like 14 cents. I've heard quite a few people that never use them at all and have never had a problem.

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replaced my crush washer for the first time at 18,000 miles. Never leaked but bought a 6-pack for .90 cents from Honda just because we all should.

Talking with a Honda mechanic, he told me no problem reusing the old one BUT you have to tighten the drain plug tighter and the threads at the bottom on the motor are not real strong, so the crush washer just makes it so that you dont have to tighten the plug so tight.

For the .15 cost it is worth replacing, least I will from now on.

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DON'T get overenthusiastic with tightening the drain plug. You'll crush the washer beyond any possibility of reuse, and might strip the threads in the sump. Then you'll really hate yourself. Check the washer before reinstalling, and if necessary, clean the flat surfaces by wiping the washer over a piece of very fine (1000 or finer) sandpaper once or twice. Clean the washer thoroughly, and reinstall the plug and washer. Torque the plug only to the value given in the manual (22 lb-ft). Add oil and ride a bit; check the plug, if it doesn't leak, you're OK.

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You now somewhere on this site someone said ( and I don't know why I never thought of it) you don't have to buy a new washer, all you have to do is aneal the old one.

Take a butain torch and lay the washer on something and heat that baby up until she is red hot, then quit, after it cools it's rejuvinated and ready for use.

Thanks whoever that was!

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I've successfully reused copper crush washers by annealing them before reuse: Heat with a blowtorch to red-hot and let cool. The washer work hardens from the tightening and the annealing removes the hardening, making it nice and soft to seal again. Sometimes you have to sand grooves off to make the surface flat.

Works for aluminum too. Just don't overheat to the point of melting (the aluminum won't show any heat color like copper does)

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Not to belabor the obvious... A wrap or two of teflon plumber's tape on the threads of the bolt, with another more generous wrap at the base of the threads at the washer as it sits against the bolt head (holding the bolt vertically, threads up - allowing gravity to do its magic), will assure a leak-proof seal, and preclude any seizing/galling of the steel threads in the aluminum oil pan. You only need torque the bolt to 18-20 ft-lbs. My '99 is going on five years on the original washer with never a leak or seepage. :wink:

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Man, sometimes it's funny how the most mundane things get so much analysis. But anyway, I reuse them a few times then replace for peace of mind. No big deal. I had one leak once on another bike after about 5 changes, but it was a tiny leak.

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You now somewhere on this site someone said ( and I don't know why I never thought of it) you don't have to buy a new washer, all you have to do is aneal the old one.  

Take a butain torch and lay the washer on something and heat that baby up until she is red hot, then quit, after it cools it's rejuvinated and ready for use.  

And....this is much easier and cheaper than replacing the washer?

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