XX RATED

I am not too partial to the clear pads. Thank you anyway! I would prefer a plain black pad - if I can find the right one........... :?:

Let me add this: You said you were NOT looking for peak h/p - only to spot potential problems before they start!?!? That is not the purpose of a dyno. If you are mearly looking to see if the bike is in A-1 running shape; save yourself about $200.00 and see your local HONDA service dept. Have the service manager take a look, possibly ride the bike - and ask his opinion on the bikes condition & performance compared to simular bikes of the same year & mileage. The dyno might be ablee to alert you of a bad plug, clogged air filter, but most guys replace tham before dyno tuning anyway. The dyno isn't going to alert you to a streached chain, sloppy cam chain tensioner, worn sprockets, ect. If all you want / need is advise on operating condition - follow the suggested service intervals in your operators manual - you will be fine! Good Luck!

I would wait - at least till you have 2000 miles on the bike to be safe. On the dyno - the bike runs VERY hot, most quality dynos have cooling fans, which optumilly could be used to force air into the ram air ducts for a more precise h/p at a specific speed / rpm. it is very important that the shop you choose takes off "both" engine side panels, and uses at least one large (or two small) fans to cool the bike while doing the runs. Remember - a GOOD - QUALITY dyno shop will run your bike on the following schedule: 10% throttle 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% Then back to 5% and even 2.5% - if the guys is REALLY good. That's at least 11 runs up to redline inside a closed room. You would shit if you knew exactly how hot you bike gets; so do you want to rush into it before all wear parts (rings, bearings, valves, ect.) are FULLY seated and broken in? Besides - like Nortman said - at 5K you'll get a better dyno reading with the engine being a little "looser". Be patient - all good things will come............ Good Luck!

That would be perfect - if it didn't say "HONDA" I want one to put on my ZRX - so saying HONDA would look silly; but that is the type I'm looking for. Thank you for the suggestion!

Can anyone recomend a GOOD stick on (not magnetic) tank pad that is universal, Black (not the usual carbonfiber look) and not too large? I usally use "PRO GRIP" - but lately I cannot find them in solid black. Almost all sport bike pads are carbonfiber look, and I just want to get away from that look. Any suggestions would be welcome......................... :?:

Seems to me that I read a thread on this forum a while back regarding the use of silicone based fluids with the stock seals. Is the 5.1 silicone like the 5.0; or have modifications been done to allow for use in the stock system?

I have them on my bike - but I wouldn't recomend them any longer due to the fact that they turn a whiteish/gray color due to heat. They look great when 1st installed, but will turb soon enough! Possible alternative: Lightly sand scratches & have powder coated - possibly black (if not already). Good Luck!

I nominate Dave - DBLXX Uh - Sorry! I thought you said Rectum fryer............. :wink:

Possible that the change from low mount to high has cahnged the power band and fell the bike "come on the pipe" at a different rpm. I would strongly suggest going to a power commander -II with the Mig set-up. You will notice the difference right away! My bike dyno'd @ 148 h/p with the Mig "high mount" set-up.

mthelen, What type pipes you running? If your using High mount Migs, you'll need to notch out the undertail for clearence for the hanger brackets for the cans. Keep this in mind prior to painting the undertail! Good Luck!

The key question here is "which Mig set-up"? Both the Migs & the D&D's are pass through cans, very little packpressure generated from the cans alone. Now - do you have the slip-ons with the low style pipes (like stock), or the "high mount" style? The "high mount" pipes generate more back pressure the the head because of the bends in the mid pipe, When changing cans (especially with mid pipes) to a style different than the previous style, I suggest you retune for better performance. You should get noticable performance gain with the "high mount" vs. stock Low mount style..........

Powerbronze make very good quality products (I.M.O.) but like any plastic product, there can be a defect. Perhaps you could measure across the bottom of the hugger and contact the dealer you purchased it from to verify fitment to your year & model.

Did you talk to Joe Rock about this? If the center hub opening was too small, you have a later model similar to the 2000 model - I sold a set of straight (gold hub) rotors from a 2000 to Joe a couple a months ago - he may still have 'em - I know that set was straight. Varify my measuring the hub o.d. & rotor i.d. prior to purchase. Good Luck!

The last thing I think I want iluminated is my lic. plate........ :wink:

The stock color is Titanium - for what that's worth. Now - as for the retro fit; if you did find that it fits, you still would have a titanium colored alt. cover - another thing to change. Possible solution - Krylon has a new "high heat" paint that is the mac daddy of spray paints - a child could spray this stuff and get a great finish. Why not just paint both covers for the price of a couple of cans of paint & two engine gaskets? Then both sides will match - I prefer "flat black" to offset against the shiny paint; but that's only my opinion. Anyway - good luck with whatever you do.........

O.K. - here'sthe dillio: Ran the XX hard into the corners - no problems. Couple of really nice wheelies - no problems. Front end never came close to bottoming out......... :grin: Now I'm not saying this is o.k. for everyone because the rider weight, suspension settings, ect. all play key roles in how the bike should / could be set-up. I increased my front spring spacers by 5/8 of an inch in the front and went with 7.5 weight oil (mixed 10 & 5 weight together), set the rear shock spring up to a stiffer setting - more suited for a 200 - 225 lb rider (I'm @ 180 lbs.) and set the rebound damping @ soft. With the bike dropped by one inch, and the rear sitting 6 m.m. higher than the front - the bike handled beautifully; actually (it may just be my imagination) but I think it handled better than at stock height.

I'm no expert on oils; but I kinda feel that if Moly was that bad for wet clutch systems Honda wouldn't sell it!?!? I have used Honda pro w/ molly in many previous bikes with no problems. I did ask my buddy (Honda service manager) - He said that if you are going to split hairs (drag racing, dyno shoot out, ect.) - than stay away from Moly blended oils because the moly though very good at keping friction to a min. actually reduces h.p. - even if it is only slightly. He said he got this from a Honda service training class, so I assume it is true. Just my two cents - you can keep the change!

I like my PowerBronze double bubble screen. Good wind deflection for my height (5'-10") Strong (thick) - very good quality in the dyeing process (mine was done in a custom very deep red) and it came out great.

O.K.- Couple of points to discuss here. 1) It's not Antone - it's anyone - my typo. 2) I'm not lowering the front end alone, I'm lowering the whole bike. I droped the rear 1 inch by use of the Orient Express adjustable dogbone - not a heim joint type, looks like standard Honda except longer w/ 2 holes on one end - 1 for 1" drop & 1 for 3" drop (dragracing) 3) I droped the front 1 inch below standard, by slidding the tubes up into the trees - so all things are in the same relation to each other as the standard set-up - I kept the 6 m.m. shim under the shock mount as to allow for the slightly higher rear for sharper turn-ins. My initial question was to see if anyone (not Antone) had encountered any problems by doing this to their bike. BUT - I did it and I'll let you guys know how it works out after tonights ride.......... Wish me luck!

Question to anyone with expierence with lowering the XX: I plan to lower the XX an inch (both front & back of coarce). I have purchased a lowering block (longer dogbone) for the rear shock & droped my front fork tubes one inch below standard. I still have the rear set at 6mm higher than the front by shimming the shock mount - the question is this. Has anyone encountered any bottoming of the front forks from a lowered bike? I really don't want to go throug all this trouble, just to have bottom out problems when I'm through. I do not think I'll have any clearence problems in the corners, as I have the suspension set stiff and I run "High Mount" pipes - so no problem there. Anyone have any past expierences they might like to share...............??????

Usally - When an air filter makes more noise than usal - it's because it's allowing more air to pass through it. This subject (is the K&N better than the stock filter) has been debated many times on this forum. The general consences is that the K&N & stock Honda filter pass the same amount of air; that would mean that the air box is louder for another reason; possibly has one of the air inlet tubes become disloged from the air box housing? I would take a closer look at the airbox and inspect the seal around the filter, just to be sure........ Good Luck!

In my opinion, it would depend on what type of riding you do. If your just out doing normal riding, touring, commuting, ect. - stick with stock - the most miles for the buck. If you want to increase your acceleration - try 1 down in front & 1 up in the rear - this equates to 4 tooth increase in rear (as the 1 down in front = 3 up in the rear). Also - if acceleration is what your after - suggest changing to 520 size chain & sprockets (all 3 must be changed as a set) as this will reduce the weight of the spinning mass on the drivetrain and help with quicker acceleration. As for chains, I'm sure others will argue - but I've used U.S.Tsubaki chains for years and they out perform DID, RK & Regina chains hands down. Good Luck with whatever you do................. :wink:

Well the price will vary depending on weather or not you decide to de-link the brakes. I replaced my brake lines with Goodridge (UK) and kept the brakes linked. I do like the improved feel of the brakes, since the brake line expansion has been eliminated. As for approx cost - linked brake set should run approx. $350.00 I would suggest changing the clutch line also - to keep the set copistedic. Time to install - 1 good long Sat. afternoon - you will have to remove the fuel tank, and both lower body panels, remove as much brake fluid as possible from resevoir, and then remove the lines. Upon removal of the lines - you will need to re-install the new set of lines. Now the fun part - you have to bleed the entire system - thats 9 brake lines in all (including the proportioning valve, secondary brake cyl. and the junction blocks). It took me more time to bleed the f*#Kin' system that the rest of the steps put together! But like any other good upgrade - worth the effort when all is said & done......... :wink: Good Luck!

Since many of you have read - My headlight is wired upside down. That is I run the large (bottom) light as my LOW beam and the smaller (top) light as my high beam - that being said - I run a 100W bulb in my High Beam (the smaller light) and have had no problems at all in regards to heat, melting ect.

Circuit 1 is in Calf. - seem like a nice bunch of guys. I contacted them about a spring for the 900RR shock and they were very helpful. Can't speak for their suspensions, but the guys were very easy to deal with. Here's a link: www.circuit1.com/circuitone_contactus.html