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About cbrxxquad

  • Birthday 09/01/1953

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    2000 cbrxxquad, 2001 cbr zxxx, 2001 TSRXX

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  1. I still have one more left, and another going out soon. But, yes you may, ofcourse copy it. Cheers
  2. the bolts in the radiator have a shoulder washer that when tight grounds it. Might be the problem, check for tight. Both sides top and one in the bottom, rubber insulated. Yes, I have seen low coolant preventing fan from comming on . I run the bike with the cap off till I see circulation and expansion then cap. Gets the air out. Bikes, on the side stand is easier than the quad.
  3. any buildup on the walls of the radiator tubes lessens the transfer of heat and restricts the flow.
  4. Retention time in the radiator reduces its coolant temp, leading to cooler temp coolant being let into the engine when the thermostat opens, lowering the engine temp, and closing the thermostat, The speed of the water flow is set by the thermostat. The pump speed is set by the engine speed, and is bypassed when the thermostat is closed.
  5. Cut and welded the stock zx links shorter and got the dimensions with it on the center stand and the rear tire on a 3/4" board after I made a mount for the top that would allow the zx shock to turn 90 deg to clear the coolant tank.
  6. Sea level at 14.6 BP and 13/1= 189.8 10cc oil gonna be a lot higher psi. Numbers are not so important as stopping leakage at rings and deciding valves or rings, valves good, now 10% difference in dry to wet numbers. Hot would be good too.
  7. Rering and 600 hoNE is what I would do. Replace the bearings. I tied the pair system straight to the valve cover and plugged all the holes in the intake box. Pulled the valve out of the pair valve, but you probably have already ditched that. Made a big difference in the feel of the power. You will want that vacuum with that light a hone job.
  8. There are some really good programs available on line, to do the math, but I cc everything and do the math.
  9. squirt some oil in and retest, will determine ring or valve for the difference. Also what was the baro pressure at the time. convert to psi and divide for static compression ratio. Calculate dynamic and compare. 10% differance in any is reason to renew. But you knew that...
  10. 01 up just one by gauges. And both run switch and start button need to be looked at.
  11. Early model FI wire looms have two test connectors. They are groups of grounds with headers connecting the groups in v connectors like the wire taps that cut the insulators and the wire about half the time. The groups are important to be separate, as some carry different current. But, all are grounds. One connector is back at the location said, just below the rear of the tank. Another is up by the coils. Later wire looms have one up by the Gauges. Never seen any problems with the later models. Early ones caused me to replace the wire looms. Even after connecting the wires together in the groups and soldering. Some of the wires don't like solder. Always wondered if the headers and v connectors would have taken solder and solved the connection corrosion. I will say, I have had similar problems over the last year, and spent much time trying to sort. 01 zx converted xx. Right side run switch and starter button both were corroded enough to have an invisible non conductive coat of gel like slime. I had dialectic greased them last time I was looking for this problems source and it picked up something that was not conductive.
  12. I ran into another deal, caused the same feel. the pins the brake pads slide on were dirty, for lack of a better term. Caused the pads to hit just the outside of the rotor causing localized heat and some warping, but once the pins were clean the pads sat flush with the rotor face and heat was equal and pulsing gone. Has happened over time twice. But I ride under some rather tough conditions. And my brakes are not stock BB brakes. So may not be the problem with yours, just something to look at for a solution.
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