John01XX

My bad, I read it like it was stating it was a 2002 - I will edit

Might get more consideration if there was a price

You really do have some issues. At no place in this thread did I refer to you as an idiot that I can find. But then again you have called myself and others "idiots" so many times that it appears that you don't understand the difference between your posts and other peoples posts. You keep falsely accusing others of exactly what you are doing. I did refer to you as a Truck Driver and an expert in metallurgy but not an idiot as you have done quite a few times Here are 5 quotes of you doing exactly what you falsely accuse others of doing. Leave the aftermarket skeleton type sprockets and the R1 Sprockets out of the discussion and lets find the correct weight of a 45 tooth BlackBird OEM sprocket and compare it to the SuperSprox alum/steel 45T equivalent Blackbird sprocket and then see what the weight difference is, if there is any. Leave the name calling out of it and lets look at the facts.

So I was mistaken. the 2000 model I parted out, that the picture came from, was possibly not the OEM as the owner claimed. I did sell it as OEM and it was installed on another Blackbird with no issues. The discussion here is about the weight of an OEM rear sprocket on 1999-2003 CBR1100XX’s verses the weight of an early model year SuperSprox alum/steel sprocket for a ZX12. Many of us bought them with Northman’s group buy for the purpose of reducing weight, if you have both, could you weigh them both up and post the results? Tomek keeps referring to R1 sprockets or Vortex skeleton sprockets to validate his claim that Blackbird OEM steel sprockets are lighter weight than a ZX12 alum/steel SuperSprox. If you disagree with Tomek then you are full of shit and if man enough must apologise!

My claim that he says is full of shit and I am to apologize for is that my 2001 OEM sprocket is significantly heavier than the SuperSprox alum/steel I installed back in the day before the steel skeleton cut steel sprockets even existed.

WOW! You have some serious anger issues. So what is the weight of that so-called Blackbird OEM sprocket?

I believe it had OEM numbers engraved but I could be mistaken. My original (2001) factory sprocket I thought had the small cut-outs like this but don't remember seeing additional (5) holes as pictured.

Here is a picture of the 5mm ride height spacers that I sold. I supplied Jaws with them for most of Europe as well. The Europeans played around with 3mm, 4mm, 5mm & 6mm spacers but decided that the 5mm was ideal for the Bird. Many other Honda's used various sized spacers but the Bird seemed to be best fitted with a 5 mm. I had them made on CNC machines where I worked and sold somewhere in the neighborhood of 1500 of them over 8+ years. I had them made up in batches of 100. The company I worked for manufactured aluminum car wash tunnel equipment so the cost of the aluminum raw material was cheap and as an employee the labor was almost nothing.

For clarification, back in 1999 thru 2003 the rear OEM sprocket was very heavy and had minimal cutouts. Below is a picture of the OEM rear sprocket I took off a 2000 Blackbird that I parted out a few years ago. Back in the day there was no skeleton steel rear sprockets available like there is today. The SuperSprox that many of us bought in a group buy headed up by Northman was a replacement for the OEM Kawasaki ZX12 as there were none made for the Bird at the time. Again at the time there was a big weight savings to go to the SuperSprox that probably is not the case today which would be a good reason that SuperSprox now makes light weight all steel sprockets that are also lighter than the original Alum/Steel sprockets. As stated the bling factor on my Red Bird with all gold accents was the deciding factor when it came time to replace my original SuperSprox alum/steel sprocket. Back in 2000/2003 the weight savings was significant when going to the alum/steel SuperSprox and it looked cool. The original OEM BlackBird rear sprockets were heavy, ugly and had minimal cutouts but they were strong.

I do not understand the geometry of a motorcycle and may have been told wrong. It was explained to me that the shim is placed above the shock resulting in the raising of the subframe. I do know for a fact from hundreds of applications that a 5-6mm shim will not put the rear tire on the ground while on the center stand.

I may be wrong but I didn't think the shim affected the rear tire clearance while on the center stand. I sold many hundreds of 5mm shims to BlackBird owners all over the world. I supplied Jaws with them for a few years.

Nice try!

I didn't hear anything of importance on your sound file but the CCT is a common noise usually referred to as a can of marbles rattle. The CCT is a quick, easy and inexpensive fix. Where are you located? I have them in stock but only ship to the USA or jaws-motorcycles.co.uk has them in stock for Europe MIne Are Listed Here

Tom, You misunderstood my poor explanation. I was implying that the improper voltage needed to start the HID bulb coming from the Ballast is probably bad. As Swampy said they are so cheap that I would recommend replacing both the bulb and the ballast together as I did on my Bird. The link shows under $50 delivered for a pair so you then have a spare if you don't use it in the high beam.

H7 HID bulb Flickering is usually a voltage issue in my experience I replaced both the bulb and the ballast last time I had a flickering problem. Pretty cheap now a days I prefer the 5000K or the 6000K for best visibility. I have 6000k in my Bird both high and low. https://www.amazon.com/Innovited-Lights-Colors-Digital-Ballast/dp/B07NCLL854/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=CjwKCAiA3abwBRBqEiwAKwICA8hPNFeTsuzxDJ1UYXPUz_RrGTfJAxHEiWctjBwcUSnH9PRqLI-AkRoCpvEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=177574150776&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9011841&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1399993115731322341&hvtargid=aud-837858999240%3Akwd-29922686335&hydadcr=5703_9590289&keywords=55w+hid+h7&qid=1577734565&sr=8-4

Or when wording on rear brakes/wheel put it under the diff.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/sprockets/

Interesting! I previously had no idea what “squish” was. Had never even heard that term. Trying to wrap my head around the concept when I don’t really understand, but is decreasing squish kind of like reducing the bore in the head only?

Nice project Wish I had the skill set to be able to do a similar project. I am still struggling to tear into my Birds tail and remove the test plug and get rid of an FI light!

i just rebooted my system and may have cleared up my slow speed

9:15pm 12/3 been having a problem with it taking literally 30 seconds to move from one page to another. No issues on any other site using Windows 10 Chrome

Or just ask here before buying any Parts for the Blackbird

Honda refers to the part as a "Lifter Set" not CCT. Part# 06140-MAT-325