Banshee

For me it's 42F/R. Any lower & the bike wants to stand up in corners.

Can you tell me how to do it in the new board now? I can't find where to load pics and just get messages that I am "not allowed to use that extension"...

I've had 2 sets of Angels. Only tyes so far where I have gone through 2 fronts to a rear instead of the other way around! I found them to be fairly quick steering, but not to the point of making me nervous with rapid tip in that made me feel like the front was going out the way many do.

Odd. I just asked for the 32005 & got a set that fitted perfectly. It does say, though: The top bearing used on the Blackbird (and many Hondas) is a non-standard size. It is marked ‘32005’, (this is an ISO standard bearing number) it has a 26mm I.D. rather than the 25mm I.D. you might expect.

That's odd, I was editing my post & then it said I don't have permission to when I went to save it... Now the edit button has vanished.

There was a difference in delivery. The latter version gives slightly better low/mid response, compared to the earlier version which is best at high revs. Has to do with how the gasses flow & the firing order. The engine fires 1-3-4-2, or for this it can be written, 3-4-2-1. So the carbed headers put consecutive pulses together in each half, (3-4 & 1-2), then merge to one in the collector. The injected headers, however, stagger the pulses in each half, (1-4 & 2-3), so it changes how the pressure pulses interract & any scvenging effects. Exatly what/why it does, I don't know, as I don't design exhausts, but it is a noticable difference. When I had my '98, over time I installed a K&N, '99 headers, Yoshi slip ons and a Factory Pro ignition advance. I didn't bother rejetting at the time & when I had it checked on a dyno, I found I had been successful in my aim. Air/fuel ratio was still ok and I had completely removed the big dip in the power/torque curve that had been annoying me. Since most of my riding was under 6k RPM, I didn't care about the loss of top end, and liked the benefit of better low/mid that I got.

I'm pretty sure I hit the stretch limit on the original OEM & replaced with a DID 530ZVM at 108,000km. I replaced the original OEM sprockets as well at that time.

RXX sounds about right. Pure water, by definition will have a pH (& pOH) of 7 and be neutral. But it will get some material dissolved in it & this then leads to the potential of electrlyic corrosion if dissimilar metals are present in the cooling system. How much & how fast will depend on lots of factors. The problem is that there are many factors that people don't realise matter, & they then make blanket statements to cover everything based on their particular (limited) experience. So what may well work well on one engine type won't for another, and any change you make could change the results. Hence the reason for manufacturers to specify corrosion inhibitors & anti-freeze in most engines regardless of their users particular situation. I, for example, never see temps under freezing, yet the specified coolant still contains anti-freeze. As for his knowledge of how women react, perhaps he just read the MSDS...

Hmmm, read it in the specs at the time. That was what Honda said was one of the changes when they went to injection in '99, from memory. At least, that was what Honda was reported to have said Down Under, and I can't see them making the headers different just for us. But it could well have been reported inaccurately. The configuration change I can verify as I put the latter headers on my '98, and they were significantly lighter, from memory.

I bought mine from a local bearing shop. From a post on the other site by The Duck. A year ago, in Oz Dollars, it cost me $140 for front & rear wheel bearings, rear sprocket carrier bearing & upper & lower steering head tapered roller bearings, using the numbers below at the local shop.

What year is you BB? The carbed ones had twin wall mild steel headers, but the injecteds have single wall stainless, so rust may not be an issue. The configuration also changed from 1-2, 3-4 then into one to 1-4, 2-3 then into one as well at that time. (I used to have '99 injected headers on my '98 carbed 'bird as I preferred the noticably better low/mid response from them & never used the top end of the rev range anyway.)

That would be about the worst possible combination for a street driven bike - where you need good and instant braking power immediately when a hard brake or full stop is needed. EBC HH pads are not effective when cold and CF rotors needs to be well heated before they are better than stock rotors. Well, it is for his track bike, not his road bike, so that should be ok then? And I find that the EBC HH pads on my road XX are quite good. I tend to brake very little, so they are nearly always cold, but I never have any issues braking as hard as I need to, even with the shorty levers. Which pads do you think are better for road use? If there are some that are significantly better than the EBC HH ones, I WANT!

The holes in the mesh are smaller, at 35microns, than most of the gaps in a synthetic filter. At least that is the idea. I have one & have used it for years. I have almost 100,000km on this BB & had ~176,000km on it's predecessor. Also, oil filters Down Under are around $25 a piece... So this paid for itself years ago.

I have had much trouble opening the fuel cap with the key. Finally found that the key now goes in just a bit too far & so sticks. This results in the key being slightly twisted, making it hard to get into the ignition. The other thing I have found is that if I get it a little out of line as it goes into the ignition, due to wear on the tip, the slots get jammed. So important to ensure I have it lined up correctly when inserting. I tried lock lubricants, but nothing helped like realising I have to have it in just the right position to get it to turn.

I had one! A '98 Candy Apple red. After I had made several mods, I did, anyway... The relevant ones were the: K&N airfilter, '99 headers, Yoshi slip ons, Factory Pro ignition advance (6 degrees, I would have decreased the advance to 4 degrees but couldn't get the crank bolt out again... ), Run on 98RON fuel (or it would ping due to the 6 degree extra advance). I never bothered rejetting as it wasn't too lean. Just a little, so that it popped on overrun when changing down to stop. With that done, the dyno gave a (corrected, I believe) reading of 122kW & 123Nm. The torque curve was 120Nm - 123Nm from 3kRPM to 10kRPM and a really nice smooth curve. Power was a straight line up to max. No dips anywhere. I believe that the '99 headers & Yoshis did most of the work in getting rid of the dip. As engine noise, (down here at least), is measured at 1/2 of the RPM at which max power is developed, it makes sense for Honda to tune the exhaust to suppress excess noise at that point. For the BB, that falls right where the dip is...

On my '98. I had a Factory Pro advancer set to 6 degrees, K&N air filter & Yoshi slip ons. Completely got rid of the big dip in the torque & gave a really flat curve from 3-10kRPM (between 120 & 123Nm right through the range). At that advance, I did have to run premium all the time or it would ping badly, however.

The pedal operates the center pistons on the calipers. It operates the rear and the front right directly. The front left is operated via a 'delay' valve. As the front left comes on, it applies pressure to the rear outer pistons via the secondary master on the fork leg. All the outer pistons are supplied by the front reservoir, the rear only supplies the center pistons. If you were pressing hard enough on all the brakes to compress the pad material, when you release the front brakes, the pads would push back & the pedal would get harder or push up, not get softer. Other than air, I have no idea what might cause what you describe. Has a pad worn unevenly due to a stuck piston on a calliper, perhaps? Or a sticky floating pin, maybe?

I adore my Pro-Oiler! 81,000km on the original OEM chain/sprockets, still not at the adjust limit and no tight spots either!

Touching the bulb can leave fingerprints that will etch & cause the glas to fail in time, but if it just the filament burning out, fingers aren't the cause. I had several expensive bulbs go & went back to fairly plain ones that lasted ok. They just couldn't take the bike vibration. Now with HID, all is good in the world.

I have noticed this. I examined the tyres & found that I have worn a flat spot in the center of both the rear & the front, as most of my riding is straight along the motorway to/from work. Once I get off the flat onto the relatively unworn parts, it turns & feels as good as it did when new. But it was a bit unsettling the first time, I thought the front had slid out by a couple of inches. Of course it was on a particularly cold day, on the 2nd corner from home on the way to work... Initially I thought it had slid, but caught once it got to the softer side, closer look made it clear about the flat spots, so now I just try to ignore it. Now it is just like the Michelin & Bridgestones I have had in the past.

You are welcome. Remember, free advice is worth every cent!

On my '98 carbed bird, a K&N + Yoshi slip ons (& later, '99 headers), cured the flat spot. And they weren't too loud. With the injecteds, the K&N is in a flexible surround that replaces the O-ring in the airbox lower. The K&N for the carbed birds, is in a hard surround that uses the airbox as is.

I tend to rotate the pads around to even out the wear, then replace them all at once. They wear unevenly due to the DCBS, particularly if you use the rear a lot.

There are 2 vent hoses on the back of the carbs, normally that are clipped together, but open to atmosphere. (I think for supplying ambient pressure to the back of the diaphragms.) There is another vacuum hose from #2 or 3, that should go to the back of the petcock on the underside of the tank. There are fittings on the other 3 carbs that match that one, they are all on the engine side of the carb & are used for balancing them.

It just runs down to a "T" piece which connects to open air at the rear and... open air at the front somewhere. I think it is mainly so that when the tank is full, if a bit of fuel splashes into the breather tube, it runs down & clear of the hot engine, instead of onto it...