Banshee

Can you tell me how to do it in the new board now? I can't find where to load pics and just get messages that I am "not allowed to use that extension"...

I've had 2 sets of Angels. Only tyes so far where I have gone through 2 fronts to a rear instead of the other way around! I found them to be fairly quick steering, but not to the point of making me nervous with rapid tip in that made me feel like the front was going out the way many do.

Odd. I just asked for the 32005 & got a set that fitted perfectly. It does say, though: The top bearing used on the Blackbird (and many Hondas) is a non-standard size. It is marked ‘32005’, (this is an ISO standard bearing number) it has a 26mm I.D. rather than the 25mm I.D. you might expect.

That's odd, I was editing my post & then it said I don't have permission to when I went to save it... Now the edit button has vanished.

There was a difference in delivery. The latter version gives slightly better low/mid response, compared to the earlier version which is best at high revs. Has to do with how the gasses flow & the firing order. The engine fires 1-3-4-2, or for this it can be written, 3-4-2-1. So the carbed headers put consecutive pulses together in each half, (3-4 & 1-2), then merge to one in the collector. The injected headers, however, stagger the pulses in each half, (1-4 & 2-3), so it changes how the pressure pulses interract & any scvenging effects. Exatly what/why it does, I don't kn

I'm pretty sure I hit the stretch limit on the original OEM & replaced with a DID 530ZVM at 108,000km. I replaced the original OEM sprockets as well at that time.

RXX sounds about right. Pure water, by definition will have a pH (& pOH) of 7 and be neutral. But it will get some material dissolved in it & this then leads to the potential of electrlyic corrosion if dissimilar metals are present in the cooling system. How much & how fast will depend on lots of factors. The problem is that there are many factors that people don't realise matter, & they then make blanket statements to cover everything based on their particular (limited) experience. So what may well work well on one engine type won't for another, and any change you make co

Hmmm, read it in the specs at the time. That was what Honda said was one of the changes when they went to injection in '99, from memory. At least, that was what Honda was reported to have said Down Under, and I can't see them making the headers different just for us. But it could well have been reported inaccurately. The configuration change I can verify as I put the latter headers on my '98, and they were significantly lighter, from memory.

I bought mine from a local bearing shop. From a post on the other site by The Duck. A year ago, in Oz Dollars, it cost me $140 for front & rear wheel bearings, rear sprocket carrier bearing & upper & lower steering head tapered roller bearings, using the numbers below at the local shop.

What year is you BB? The carbed ones had twin wall mild steel headers, but the injecteds have single wall stainless, so rust may not be an issue. The configuration also changed from 1-2, 3-4 then into one to 1-4, 2-3 then into one as well at that time. (I used to have '99 injected headers on my '98 carbed 'bird as I preferred the noticably better low/mid response from them & never used the top end of the rev range anyway.)

That would be about the worst possible combination for a street driven bike - where you need good and instant braking power immediately when a hard brake or full stop is needed. EBC HH pads are not effective when cold and CF rotors needs to be well heated before they are better than stock rotors. Well, it is for his track bike, not his road bike, so that should be ok then? And I find that the EBC HH pads on my road XX are quite good. I tend to brake very little, so they are nearly always cold, but I never have any issues braking as hard as I need to, even with the shorty levers. Which pa

The holes in the mesh are smaller, at 35microns, than most of the gaps in a synthetic filter. At least that is the idea. I have one & have used it for years. I have almost 100,000km on this BB & had ~176,000km on it's predecessor. Also, oil filters Down Under are around $25 a piece... So this paid for itself years ago.

I have had much trouble opening the fuel cap with the key. Finally found that the key now goes in just a bit too far & so sticks. This results in the key being slightly twisted, making it hard to get into the ignition. The other thing I have found is that if I get it a little out of line as it goes into the ignition, due to wear on the tip, the slots get jammed. So important to ensure I have it lined up correctly when inserting. I tried lock lubricants, but nothing helped like realising I have to have it in just the right position to get it to turn.

I had one! A '98 Candy Apple red. After I had made several mods, I did, anyway... The relevant ones were the: K&N airfilter, '99 headers, Yoshi slip ons, Factory Pro ignition advance (6 degrees, I would have decreased the advance to 4 degrees but couldn't get the crank bolt out again... ), Run on 98RON fuel (or it would ping due to the 6 degree extra advance). I never bothered rejetting as it wasn't too lean. Just a little, so that it popped on overrun when changing down to stop. With that done, the dyno gave a (corrected, I believe) reading of 122kW & 123Nm. The tor

On my '98. I had a Factory Pro advancer set to 6 degrees, K&N air filter & Yoshi slip ons. Completely got rid of the big dip in the torque & gave a really flat curve from 3-10kRPM (between 120 & 123Nm right through the range). At that advance, I did have to run premium all the time or it would ping badly, however.