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Mosfet? http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm

I used this method also. By hanging the front of the tank from the ceiling you get more access. However, this stresses the fuel line enough that mine started weeping from the crimp. For that reason I am not a fan of this method, especially if you still have original 20 Y/O lines. If you do this I recommend to double check for leaks before you ride off into the sunset.

You didn't say if the ECU was strapped down. Anyway, make sure it is. Wiggling the wires at idle will not trigger code 25, she performs a self test on start up and revving, which for you = 500yds. Recommend #4 next, loom fix. Type in "loom fix" in the search function, top of page. With some hunting, you will find one with pics. This is where with some basic soldering skills, the junction block I mentioned before, is cut off and the appropriate wires soldered together. I did this on my bike (as the block was corroded) to fix a code 25. It worked for 10 000 miles. Then the code returned. Out of options, I bought a used ECU. Some posters have reported running issues with a code 25. I had none. Just very annoying. That's why I asked. If anyone knows of an outfit that can, and has, repaired a blackbird ECU for code 25, that would be good info. Moderator; I checked the forum called "important/useful" looking for loom fixes. There is one, but the pics don't work. Is there something you/we can do to make this useful again? Thanks

Key symbol on the dash is HISS, yes. As far as code 25, or knock sensor, it won't be the knock sensor. This is a not uncommon malady of the analog dash FI bikes. Possible causes of code 25: 1. ECU not strapped down 2. 2 large ECU multi pin connectors..... pins not 100% clean 3. 2 large ECU multi pin connectors.....wires/pins damaged. maybe due to cause 1. 4. "Loom fix" There is a connector buried in the loom under tape (LHS near battery) that corrodes. Can be fixed. 5. Bad ECU 6. Bad knock sensor or knock sensor wiring. The knock sensor wire has a braided sheath that is grounded. Check the wire. Bad knock sensor, unlikely, but possible I guess. Question, does the bike run normally. ? Power, fuel economy etc.?

Excess oil from the chain can get slung up there along with the aforementioned road grime. Installing a rear hugger will help keep this area and the rear shock clean and help protect the main loom which runs unprotected above the chain, which as we all know is vulnerable to corrosion triggering a service called the "loom fix".

Do either of you have a rear hugger? Helps keep road grime where it belongs.

I would revisit the loom fix. Sounds like a bad ground, and the loom fix is basically a ground junction block. Try adding a ground wire to the ground terminal on the horn (green wire) as a test.

Sandman, if the fuel pump relay (I assume your "fuel cut off relay") is clicking on with ignition on, then your ECU is sending the correct signal. First off, make sure you have identified the correct relay. There is another one called the engine stop relay. Anyway, the fuel pump relay will click on with ignition, then click off after about 5 secs. If that happens, then just trace the brown wire from the relay to the fuel pump. The green one on the pump is a ground. Make sure its grounded.

This would work without risk to other bike. Remember, there are 2 FI models, analog dash and digi dash, each with different ECU. Plugging in a known good ECU into bike with question mark over the electrical system.......not recommended. Best to disconnect battery before messing with ECU.

Ok, but maybe the other way around would be safer? I don't let my precious ECU out at night to play with other bikes. don't know what kind of shape it may come back in. 😀

If the relay is clicking, then it is probably good, but, switch the relays around. There is more than 1. FYI: turn on ignition, the pump relay should click (on), then 5 or so seconds later, should click again (off). The pump will not stay on more than about 5 secs unless the engine is running.

Fuel pump or fuel pump relay? I am talking about the relay, sorry if I wasn't clear. Specifically, my post above refers to the relay trigger wires.

What exactly does this mean? This is tricky to measure as the ECU provides signal to both wires, and neither one is necessarily a bike "ground", according to the wiring diagram.

Haven't heard that exact thing, no. But it is certainly possible. One thing I have heard more than once is that the ECU for some reason (basically, it failed) no longer gives the signal to the fuel pump relay. Anyway, check the 2 big connectors to the ECU, pins all clean and correct? No broken wires, ECU strapped down? Note: in a pinch, the pump can be wired to come on with ignition, bypassing the ECU. Remember you would be bypassing all the safety features too.

So I broke my iphone 7 camera lens, probably by having it and a set of keys in the same pocket. I ordered a lens repair kit to repair it from the outside. Kit includes exacto type knife, micro tweezers, 2 new lenses, 4 double stick "gaskets" + cleaner. Cost £6.99 from world renowned "oGoDeal". I'm not exactly cheap, but the other options were even less! Any wisdom from this tech savvy forum for me before I proceed? Cheers all.

There is no grill in the ram air intake, disc carrier is gold coloured and looks like it says PGM FI on rear section + Grassy72 mentioned fuel pump. I am going with fuel injection. Agree with others above that it will start fairly easily, however, due to 3 years storage, I would turn engine over with starter until oil light goes out before allowing it to fire

No, it would say "shifto patterno" 🍡

Ok yes, clean every connector, but the loom fix is an extra step. There is a junction block that corrodes buried in the big loom under tape, located roughly parallel to the battery. R/R and Loom Fix questions.... - The Garage - CBR1100XX.org Forum ---------bottom of page 1 Is the ECU strapped down in place? If not. it can bounce around and cause error codes. Important::::::::::: disconnect the battery before doing any of this ::::::::::::

Does it make your teeth all soft and pliable?

As far as I can gather, the code 25 (knock sensor) is never due to a bad knock sensor, or a bad MAP sensor or LED light. It is usually either due to a corroded connector plug buried in the loom, fixed by permanently soldering the appropriate wires together (AKA "the loom fix"), or by a faulty ECU. This affects primarily FI analog dash models. The loom fix is not that difficult if you have some soldering skills.

If I was still in your neck of the woods I would be happy to help in person. Maybe I can still help from afar. If you are asking if the relay shown can be mounted under the bike or by the horn.....NO. Mount all electrical devices such as relays/fuses/etc inside the bodywork and accessible. Can you show pic of temp probe and how it connects to the relay, maybe it can be extended? Also, how is it adjustable?

I see top left of certificate, states, "Imported". I guess everything is imported there, except for this:

No, not exactly. Disconnect or cut the Br/Bl wire (that goes to the ECM) near the pump relay end and attach a new one that goes from said pump relay to the new relay. Take the ECM out of the fuel pump loop altogether. I have not done this procedure myself, so please double check against the wiring diagram and your own troubleshooting. This would be after you have eliminated all other faults.

sandman, The trigger for the fuel pump relay is a ground (I think its a ground) signal from the ECM on 4th wire counting from the LHS. Wire is listed as Br/Bl. This trigger signal may be dead. Only reason I mention this is because this exact problem has come up a few times on another blackbird forum. If everything else checks out OK, then solution is either another ECM or hot wire the bad ground trigger signal with a relay thru the stop/start switch. This will allow the pump to run ALL the time the ignition and stop switch is on, for normal operation of the bike. If you resort to this remember the ECM will no longer be able to shut off the pump in the event of trouble. As far as the diode goes, it is not on the wiring diagram. I am not aware of one. First for me. PS: I am assuming when you turn on ignition...........no fuel pump sound at all.

1. Check fuel pump relay and connector(s) 2. Continuity of individual wires in fuel pump circuit. This circuit includes the ECM, so unplug 2 large connectors to it and clean/inspect + look for any broken wires. Also, make sure ECM is strapped down. There should be a very large O ring over it but can use bungy cord/wire ties etc. 3. Last but not least, you may need to do the "loom fix". In short, there is a junction block hidden under the loom tape that corrodes and causes intermittent/unusual electrical maladies. Not that hard if you are handy with a soldering iron. Note: Disconnect the battery before messing with the ECM