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rockmeupto125 last won the day on September 18

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  1. Who's bike is this?

    I'm on the phone with him now.
  2. Stainless brake lines

    I'm seriously thinking that front end might fit on an XX. But that Suzuki is such a good package as it is, it would hurt to break it up.
  3. After much consideration, I've decided to part out a 2000 XX in my possession. Very sad, because a variety of circumstances make this the most viable option. They also serve, who only sit and relinquish parts. This is a 2000 CBR1100XX in excellent original condition with only 11,000 miles, with exceptions that I'll note. If you're just interested in parts and not the story, drop down to the asterisks *****. Let's start off with this --- it is a salvage title, which is the crux of the entire situation. There's no evidence of any crash damage whatsoever. The engine, however, was found to have rusted internals and muddy sludge for oil. At first, one would think it was a flood bike, but I'm experienced with that, and there's no evidence of flood dirt on the bike. The only way this bike could have been under water is if someone rode it into a swimming pool. I'm much more willing to believe the engine was vandalized, and water was poured into it. The bike passed through two owners on its way to me, neither willing to believe the bike didn't just have something simple wrong with it. I spent some time with it before doing a compression check and pulling the motor, after which I found the sad condition of the internals. Even were I to fix or replace the engine, it still carries a New York State salvage title. Because NY is so messed up, I would have to have a NY state salvage inspection performed, then a Pennsylvania state salvage inspection before I could get a reconstructed title in PA. That's about $800 right there, plus a metric shit tonne of aggravation. So its being parted out. As the bike passed through salvage auction, two owners, and various repair garages, it unfortunately incurred unnecessary damage and missing parts. So let me just list what's damaged or not there. ***** 2000 CBR1100XX for parts. Titanium bodywork, 11000 miles *Engine is removed and disassembled. There is rust on various parts. Any engine part should be considered to have been exposed to water and sat. However, many parts should still be good if you've broken something inside your engine. *Upper cowl has a broken area on the right in the curve where it joins the dash. Otherwise, in great condition. Very unfortunate. *Right lower cowl has a broken area near the top by the mounting boss. Scratches on the side. Again, very unfortunate. Those that have done business with me know that my prices for used parts are generally quite reasonable. While I still intend to be reasonable, the parts I am offering are pretty much in pristine condition, and prices will reflect that. If you need something, post up or send me a PM/email. A few pictures to follow.
  4. Stainless brake lines

    Surprised I missed this. No wonder those lines are so well installed. As I said, will take me a couple hours to get them off.
  5. Radar detector mounting

    Look at the opening pic of the OffroadXX video posted on page 2 of the attached thread. Its a Ram mount attached to the handlebar. On the business end of the ram mount is a flat mount with a magnet. A plate glues to the radar detector (or other device) for quick attachment/detachment. There are numerous ways to attach the suport end of the Ram mount to the motorcycle.
  6. Stainless brake lines

    I have a full stainless clutch and brake line kit for an XX in black that I'd be willing to sell. Its installed, so it would take a few days to remove it.
  7. Radar detector mounting

    At NeXXT 17 one of the guys had a magnetic mount on a Ram ball mount. I ordered one.
  8. CL find 1990 RC30

    I rode an NC30 all over northern England. I'd be happy with that. It was a great little bike.
  9. 2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES

    Glad to see things going your way, John. And a big thumbs up to racer212!
  10. WTB: DC Power Supply

    Its necessary that it be able to supply 60 volts. If it can supply any other voltage, that's great. I don't know the specs of the unit he procured. The controller takes the battery current and turns it into pulsed DC. So the power supply should be linear, as a battery. I presume in the actual application there are caps to regulate the input to the controller.
  11. WTB: DC Power Supply

    First off, we found one. Thanks for the replies and offers. Bullroarer designed the controller and needed to run a 24 hour test on it to determine durability. Can't run it on the battery system that long for a variety of reasons. So we were going bench test it here where it could be babysat for 24 hours straight. I said "no less" in reference to the maximum voltage needed, not "no less" as in the device must be unable to supply a voltage less than 60. Where are the grammar nazi's when they are needed?
  12. WTB: DC Power Supply

    I need 60 volts DC, no less. Adjustable would be nice in order to simulate voltage drop off when powered by batteries. So it should be a bench supply, not a welder. This is to run a 24 hour performance test on the controller.
  13. WTB: DC Power Supply

    Development testing on a electric powered vehicle controller.