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rockmeupto125 last won the day on January 2

rockmeupto125 had the most liked content!

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  1. I think I'll just change the locks, but I'd consider your setup for an educational project if you put a price on it. Does the chip unlock the pad so you can put in a code, or do you put in a code to allow the chip to work!
  2. Hell, I'm replacing the mirrors. That's not a bad idea. I wondered if the RFID worked through the sheet metal of the door. So how thick is that keypad?
  3. Well shit. I guess I can get two new door locks with keys for $40. Probably should have considered doing it the right way in the first place, but everything for this truck is so damned expensive compared to my Chevy I never even checked until now.
  4. Cbgaa is just the Ford build sheet option code. Didn't know what all the options were. An RFID card sounds neat. I really didn't want to have to wire a relay inside that door, that's why I was thinking just a momentary contact switch. Then I have the grief of trying to hide it. I'll do either, just have to figure out something. Quick and dirty, as long as I don't have to drill a lot of holes in the door. It's one of the relatively undented pieces on the truck.
  5. It looks like I'm stuck with this 2008 Ford F350, so I need to get it online. I'm not numbering all my little repair projects by priority or time line. Just jotting them down as I ask for ideas and such. So this problem is the door locks. While the truck does have power door locks, it was built with CBGAA-Without keyless entry system. The power door locks work just fine. But the key locks on both sides are very resistant to use even after some lubrication. So I thought, why not just wire in a remote? I even tried to program a remote just to see if the truck still had the capability, just no programmed remotes, but no dice. After looking for some sort of remote that could trigger the connection, I felt like I was barking up a tree. So how about an externally mounted switch to unlock the doors? I only need unlock, not locking capability. I'd either have to hide the switch, or have some sort of a coded push button device. I though of grabbing one of the keyless entry pads from another Ford, but apparently they are tied into the computer, and I want something simple. So...any ideas for a switch that has a code, or do I have to fit it up in the fenderwell? As always, thanks for reading and for any input.
  6. No notable change in speed from my end, and I have a rural fiber connection via a shitty backbone provider.
  7. I have 4 Harbor Freight floor jacks. Two 1.5 ton low profile aluminum jacks, the 20 year old orange kinda low profile jack that Carlos probably has (2.5-3 ton?), and the new 2.5 I bought after I blew out trying to pick up a third of a 3.5 ton trailer with one of the 1.5 ton aluminum jacks. To be fair, that particular jack had been greatly abused and has raised the front half of a 5600 pound truck (that's 1.5 tons, right) more times than it should have. If I ever need another jack, I'll check HF first.
  8. If Ducati doesn't have a stock rubbermount that fits, check ognibene.
  9. yeah, how many miles on it for the cam chain to stretch like that?
  10. Damn. I wonder if they will do anything with mine as its a salvage title. I wondered what the driveshaft recall addressed.
  11. Yeah, its an annoyance for sure. Depends on how it was routed on install, you basically have to undo all of it. Do not disconnect the hoses. You may end up having to loosen the rear frame extension to have enough room to raise the front off the inner fender. That triangle the hose goes through is pretty tight to slide that reservoir through. You wouldn't have to take the rear frame off, just maybe take the 4 bolts/nuts out in the front. Seems like there's a lot of different ways people mount these shocks.
  12. Verizon requires a prepaid phone be activated for some amount of time (month?---6 month?) before moving it to postpaid. Many complaints online that the phone lost service with a SIM switch. Not to mention that her current phone doesn't have a SIM slot.
  13. LOL, don't mind us, we're pretty much all dickheads. I'll get to it. Been working 14 hour nights through the weekend, doesn't leave much time in the day after I shit and shave.
  14. Fuckin' Jeeps. Looks pretty straightforward. Just check all the tabs on the lowers. It's and indication of how tight that package is that the lower fairing set stayed essentially intact while the upper cowl sheared off.
  15. I got a chance to look at the pictures a bit closer on my desktop. That's unusual damage. What happened? I'd be very surprised if there was fork damage. Doesn't appear they would have taken any impact. That headlight is a stout piece and obviously absorbed a lot of energy and the stay probably absorbed the rest. Just check the frame neck near the mounting lugs for the stay for cracked paint or indication of frame damage.
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