superhawk996

You'll only know if you ask.

The wires will probably be pretty stuck to the plugs, but since you're replacing both it won't matter what it takes to get them off. Blast around the plugs with compressed air before pulling them out, there's bound to be a fair bit of junk around them.

I ca't imagine the factory plugs went 114k. If they did; holy shit! Being that you bought Motorcraft wires you probably aren't gonna cheap out on other stuff and you can't go wrong with OE Motorcraft plugs. There's a good chance that there's something to gain by using iridiums, but I've never tried them in that motor so I don't know. The few I've tinkered with respond well to advancing the timing over spec, I've done 4 degrees over on a few with no ill effects, the MPG and power both rise. Since it's a tweak you'll wanna listen for detonation just in case, but I haven't had any do it. If you have emissions testing you'll probably have to drop it back to within 2 degrees of spec to pass the visual inspection, if your state does that.

I'll take a set! I'll PM you my info.

I ran some of my filtered WMO through the centrifuge and a scary amount of goo was pulled out of it. I haven't set it up to actually process the stuff yet, but it has moved to the top of the projects list. It has 4 steel baskets designed to hold test tubes and a sealed bowl around them. I'm going to poke a hole in the bowl for an outlet and rig up a way to direct the incoming oil to the bottom of the baskets. The clean oil will overflow them, hit the bowl, and drain out into a container or maybe directly to the bag filter...hopefully. At full speed the centrifuge creates about 3,500Gs at the top of each basket and 6,000 at the bottom, that's some pretty serious shit. I found the receipt for the filters. I bought 8 of them in late 2008 for $40 shipped and now installing my last one.

It's a cool basic bike with enough power that looks & sounds good enough to wanna keep it. The front brake is surprisingly strong for a smallish single disc. I find the riding position of any 'normal' bike to be somewhat uncomfortable which reduces the temptation to keep it, and I'm glad because I really don't need another fucking vehicle around here.

It looks EXACTLY like that, somewhere under the layers of grunge. A few hours in Dave's garage and it might be almost that sparkly. From memory the battery is a 2004-ish Walmart Everstart, neverstart according to some around here. A few days of reconditioning and the fuckng thing actually starts the bike. It didn't come back to anywhere near full power, but still impressive. Last time I worked on it was '04ish. It got a new battery, oil change, spark plugs, and whatever other services I thought were appropriate. He rode it a little, parked it for the winter, the battery died and he just let it sit till now. It spent a couple years outside semi-covered then went indoors 'till a few days ago.

Actually, there is. Park it in the house and it'll be pretty safe. If you don't trust visitors, understandably, put a fence around it. And don't forget to keep them warm in the winter, makes them feel special so they stay extra happy.

Got it from a friend who's moving soon. It's been sitting for several years and will need tires, battery, and a hearty scrubbing/polishing. I cleaned out the gas tank & soaked the carbs in cleaner and she runs. If it doesn't go on a 'buddy deal' I'll pretty it up and put it on CL.

When the distributor points open and the high voltage is created I think some of it flows into the primary side of the coil and back to the points. I don't think a stator can create that high voltage spike.

I'd never considered voltage spikes and issues it could cause. From memory the no load voltage is 50-60v., never tested one while it was connected and under load. I also don't know if suddenly unloading it would make for a higher voltage than what it makes when tested unloaded. I also don't know if a series regulator completely opens the circuit or has something in it so that it won't spike. I assume they'd take that into account when designing them.

Warren distribution, they make a shit ton of the private label oils.

That's very close to what I was starting to type, then changed it.

Oh wait....you fucked that motor all up but I'll give you $50 for it anyway.

In case you don't have one.

The pump feeding the cooler does have a pressure relief so whatever it's set at is all you were "forcing" against the plug. The oil exiting the cooler is fed to the inlet of the main pump so you weren't starving the engine. I know this because I'm a CRB1100XX super expert. or because I had no fucking clue and needed to know so I opened the manual to page 4.0 and looked at the "lubrication system diagram". Check it out then rest peacefully, no damage was done and no luck points were spent. Actually, if you were only drag racing you probably did the motor a favor by killing the cooler.🤗

Having a stator or R/R stop working isn't what I'd call catastrophic failure. If they burned up the whole electrical system upon failure, that would be catastrophic. Much like the CCT stops working properly, but the chain doesn't skip and put valves into pistons; that would be catastrophic. If you want a better charging system look into a series regulator. They take the load off the stator instead of consuming the excess power like the standard one. It acts similarly to a car alternator's regulator, it just gets there a different way.

Wow, that ad. Jeezuz.

Fuel, vehicle registration, taxes, insurance....everything costs more. Our annual registration fee is based on the value of the vehicle, the minimum registration for older low value cars & bikes is now around $130 and supposedly going up again in 2019. Pickups & cargo vans pay an additional weight fee, usually around $100. My buddy was in line at DMV talking to the guy next to him who was there to pay the registration on his McClaren, $2,500! Oddly, boats & trailers are still super cheap to register, I don't get it. The weather is pretty awesome, especially here in So.Cal, and we have mountains, deserts, ocean; lots of stuff that no other state has. Pretty sure we're the only one with legal lane splitting which makes bike riding pretty awesome if you need to get around in traffic. Our fuel tax was up for vote to get it reduced and it didn't pass. Not because people wanted it, but because the way it was written people who didn't read the details accidentally voted to keep the higher tax level. I wouldn't doubt that whoever wrote the ballot sheet did it on purpose. The IDI does have a mechanical engine mounted pump. It's down low like most gas engine pumps, the early PS had the mechanical pump in the valley before they went to the electric, I think that change was in '97. If I can get my endoscopic camera down the filler tube I'll run the tank down and see if I can see any sludge. I think it has an anti-syphon device so the camera might not work. The oil sometimes sits in that bucket for weeks as I add some here & there, sometimes I filter and pour as soon as it's done; all depends on how much I have in the van's tank and how much waste I have waiting to be filtered. '50s sounds right for the tractor just based on the engine and my guessing. If he's ready to give it away I'd be a fool not to take it, it should be worth a few bucks to someone even if it's not a lot. He has a trailer I can use for free, but I'll have to get it running first so it can be moved & loaded.

From memory the pre-heating is supposed to reduce/eliminate issues from the glycerin in veggie oils screwing stuff up, the stuff that's removed when you turn it into biofuel. When fuel prices go up.....Buaahahahaha!!! I'll bet my lowest is higher than your high. We're averaging around $3.80/gal right now, which is down from where it was recently. Cheapest I found in my area on Gasbuddy is $3.65. Last time it spiked bad, right after I bought the IDI, we were in the $5 neighborhood. Ca. bones us on everything; part of the reason I make ammo, make fuel, make cigarettes, unsuccessfully make liquor, etc. My bag filter is 1 micron absolute so that's the max size it's supposed to allow past. Common filter ratings are "nominal" and are as you described where XX percentage of larger stuff will pass through. On a nominal rating mine might be 1/4 micron or less. And it has some specially treated exterior surface so that no loose filter particles can come off, I wanna say they were sintered, but not sure. MSRP was rifuckingdiculous on them, I got a smokin deal on a 6 pack because someone had opened the package so they were no longer suitable for whatever super sensitive equipment they were designed for. I have only one new one left and the one in service is damn near plugged up, I need to start shopping ASAP. I think the 7.3PS filter is 14 micron and the 6.0 is 5, I assume both are nominal ratings so some larger stuff is let though. I assume that normal fuel contamination is dust and a 14 micron dust particle probably doesn't do much damage. WMO is going to have metal particles which could do a lot more damage at the same size so I went for the extreme filter. The goo in my bucket is very silky smooth, almost makes me want to load it into my grease gun. But some of that goo must be making its way into my fuel tanks which doesn't make me happy. Any time you think of doing something way out of the box lots of people will tell you it aint gonna work. I'm guessing it's just a natural reaction. If you could run your engine off of waste products everyone would be doing it, and since they're not, you're obviously insane. Even among those close to me there was some doubt, but the common reaction was something along the lines of if it can be done you'll be the one to do it.

The bottom of my filtered oil bucket has a thick layer of goo. It's kinda like low viscosity grease, and the blackness sticks like the silver from anti-seize. Guessing it's carbon and/or soot from engine blow-by. Looks like I should push that centrifuge project up the to-do list.

Mostly just from the stuff I work on, and a few people give me their stuff here & there. Viscocity is supposedly an issue for HEUI and I hear it can mess them up. I assume because it makes them work harder to inject. I also hear that low fuel pressure, like from a plugged up filter, will screw them up but I don't know why. Mechanical systems are also said to not like high viscosity. I liked the idea of bio, but the more I looked into it the more difficult it looked to do properly. And the IDI supposedly needs all the fuel hoses replaced to a different material for it. Plus I'm a mechanic, not a cook, so I'd have to go find veggie oil then dispose of my WMO so burning it made more sense. The 7.3 PS is bio friendly even tho it's not advertised, don't know about the 6.0. The tractor should be fine other than possibly the hoses or other rubber parts, I've heard that some don't do well with bio. Or maybe the hose issue is for running straight veggie oil, don't remember. I ran SVO in the IDI once, about 10 gallons, seemed to run the same as anything else I've put in. I did warm it up completely before switching over to it and it was burned on a straight highway run towing my Scarab. Being that it was the only time I towed the boat with it I couldn't say how performance compared to other fuels. It felt good to be towing for 'free', I was jazzed. I also hadn't gotten to play with that boat much so I was pretty excited about it too, I miss that thing. I've heard horror stories about running cold SVO, I think it's supposed to be heated to around 180 or so before injection. I throw bits of SVO into the WMO filter here & there, but rarely. It would be completely wrong to post about your tractor in a bike forum, luckily you're at the .org where anything goes....except for breaking the one rule we do have. There's no such thing as too much tractor, unless it's bigger than your yard. That thing in my yard would look silly, but it's cool as hell so I'd own it just for that. And good job on prettying it up, it looks spectacular. A friend has a super old Ford tractor I could probably get for free and I keep thinking about it, but force myself to just say no. Total rust bucket, looks like it shouldn't run, but it did 'till the starter died. It's smaller than yours and has a 4 cyl. gas motor. I'm guessing it's about 7' long. I have no real need for it, it would be handy once in a while, 99% of the time it would just be another thing in the way. Your tractor should do fine on WMO. I've read a few horror stories about WMO but don't know the cause of their failures. I'm the only one I've seen post about using it long term, details are on FTE in the diesel alternative fuels forum. Before trying it I posted questions, I think in the IDI forum, and mostly 'got I wouldn't do that shit if I were you' warnings. In my more recent update I again heard "you've been lucky, it ain't gonna last long". The only semi-special thing I do is the 1 micron filter, some say that's way overkill, some say that no matter how well it's filtered it'll kill the engine and/or injection system. Maybe that filter has some special qualities that make my WMO safer than other's, but I doubt it. I also run a pretty heavy dose of DieselCleen in the diesel tank, maybe it helps. I'd heard good things about it so it's a feel-good thing I've been doing since the beginning. It used to be common practice for guys doing their own oil changes to just pour the drain pan into the fuel tank, no settling or filtering. But that's just a few gallons of oil into a huge tank of diesel once in a while so very different than running a huge amount all the time. I've got a medical centrifuge I'm thinking about modifying to treat the WMO before filtering. Many say that using a centrifuge is key and they seem to know what they're talking about, but they also say that it eliminates the need to filter which I don't buy. I assume there's going to be some junk in the oil that's lighter than the oil and the centrifuge can't eliminate that stuff. I think it'll mostly just help make my filter last longer, and maybe it'll remove some stuff that the filter doesn't. Next time I dump my filtered oil, later today if I remember, I wanna see if there's gunk in the bottom of the bucket. If so then the centrifuge might actually do something that the filter doesn't. When waste oil sits there's always a gunk layer that settles out, I don't know if the filter eliminates whatever that stuff is. I think the centrifuge should get rid of it. It's still cold out but time to go be productive. Been a good week, work every day and other than two jobs they've all been brought to my house, and mostly cash customers. I also managed to get two free 'dead' batteries that I rejuvenated and put into my electric car.

My WMO process is to put it through a 1 micron absolute bag filter, nothing else. The filter is about 3' long and sits in a piece of metal ducting, I think 8" diameter, which rests on a 5 gallon bucket. I punched a hole in the center of the bucket's lid and the duct sits on the lid. I've done about 8 years and 20k miles on it, but some of that has been on diesel fuel. The smaller front tank is for diesel and the larger rear tank is the junk container. I try to end my drives on diesel but don't always remember to switch it in time. I mostly run used engine oil along with ATF, hydraulic, gear oil, old gasoline, and whatever other petroleum waste products I get. And occasionally cooking oils. My IDI is an '88 E-350 and not pretty, no photos of it. It's my work van, I'm a mobile mechanic. I know a guy selling a clean IDI F-250 that's tempting, but I have no use for it. I'd always assumed a diesel would run on waste oil and when this van popped up for $500 I jumped on it and started the experiment. Initially I added one gallon of WMO to a nearly full tank of fuel and as I used the fuel I kept adding WMO figuring that at some point it would let me know that it was unhappy with the ratio. When I hit damn near 100% oil and it still ran I was convinced. The engine was already half fucked when I got it and seems more fucked up now, but don't know if the WMO has been a factor. I've saved enough on fuel to make up for any damage I've caused it, guessing I'm up around $4k in fuel savings. It smokes more on oil and there seems to be a cumulative effect when running around town. On the highway there seems to be no difference between the different fuels. If filtered well I don't think it would be a problem for the HEUI as long as the viscosity is low. I've run oils a few times in it but I was more picky about what went in, mostly ATF and old oils that weren't used. I briefly ran about 40/60 waste/diesel and it didn't smoke or do anything weird even on cold starts, but I only did that one time. I've run light mixtures several times at around 40:1 diesel:oil. It seems to be quieter on oil, so was the IDI, guessing the oil has a lower cetane and the combustion is a bit slower. Power seems the same in both engines with the different fuels.

Is your 7.3 an early or late model? And who are you on FTE? I'm '88 E-350. I mostly hang out on the 99-03 7.3 PS forum, and visit the alternative fuels and Excursion forums a little. My 7.3 IDI is mostly fueled by WMO, I've only used it a little bit in the PS, kinda scared of messing it up.

Could get on this morning By blackhawkxx, October 28 in Board Tech Issues & Help Me too, so glad it works flawlessly every day!