superhawk996

Thanks. It's funny, and not too surprising, to see this bike lumped together with "this old tractor". Just yesterday I was looking at the massive starter and thinking, damn, it's like a tractor manufacturer made a motorcycle engine.

I haven't a clue and plan to research their value. Do know that if you got it right now there'd be a fair bit of tinkering to do, other than cosmetics. I bought it unseen, not quite as described, I might have overpaid. At the time, and going off the description, my research said it was a pretty decent deal. But it's been a few years and things have changed. Honestly, I couldn't say if it's worth $1k or $10k, but guessing much much closer to 1.

They are super goofy, absolutely retarded, and for some reason they don't bother me as much as they should.

I hope I didn't steal your Guzzi thread with my project. Motivator; mine's running so get off your ass! 🙂

That makes sense, I wondered why it wouldn't have the jumper control. The emergency down might work if you hit the jumper, or some other momentary switch. Some 'emergency' controls are wired so that you have to hit two things, I guess it's a safety against accidentally actuating the 'emergency' circuit. But if all's working well you *shouldn't* ever need the emergency down. At least some stuff is looking better than it seemed. Having two pairs that give AC power makes me think the mystery is solved, but it's odd to me that one pair has continuity to ground and the other doesn't, that's why I was hesitant to say much about that part. It seems to me that if an AC hot wire has continuity to ground it would energize the chassis when the generator's running. Or, maybe it's a feedback through the brushes and if the engine were rotated a bit the other pair may have done the same...something to test on your next probing adventure perhaps. Luckily you have the pulley that'll hopefully let you roll the engine by hand. I think most meters have some kind of indicator to let you know the voltage is out of range so it'll spur you into changing the range, sometimes it's not obvious.

In playing with the throttle on generators I've seen 40 to well over 150v. Governors aren't perfect, but you can usually dial them in to keep within a good voltage range. The one on my Onan was a little off so I tweaked it. From memory there were 3 different things to adjust to get the voltage right at low, medium, and high load. The governor relies on a bunch of stuff, but in my mind the spring is what makes it less than perfect, there's just no way to not have some amount of rising resistance as the spring is stretched. I think I got mine down to around 4-5v. of variation, more than good enough.

Modern fancy generators might not use the old school mechanical governor. If they use electronicals to see the voltage and regulate the RPM based on voltage instead of actual RPM then I guess it could be called a regulator.

The RPM governor could be referred to as a voltage regulator in some units, but I think that would be completely wrong.

Pretty sure there's no regulator, the voltage is RPM dependent. 240 would come from using the two 120 hots....or cranking the RPM up to 3600 😵

As for which wire is which, it doesn't make sense to me so I won't speculate. The 145v instead of 120 is probably just because the RPM is too high.

Very odd since the engine is making no electricity for the vehicle/boom to use. Does the battery jumper switch have to be on for the engine to run? If so, did you try the emergency bypass with that switch on? If the panel is truly only operational with the engine running that means it's sharing power with the generator stuff, like the fuel pump & ignition, which seems totally wrong. Or maybe that switch isn't activating the emergency bypass solenoid and instead is activating the normal down solenoid which might require hydraulic pressure. Either way, it would be easy to swap the panel feed from the generator controlled circuit to a battery line so that the emergency down will work with a dead engine.

It was in the corner of the yard blocked in by the Excursion, which was slightly disassembled for repairs, so I hadn't built up the motivation to drag it out. Today I dropped the Ex off at the Ford dealer so a real mechanic could fix it for me, luckily I got the only female technician there so it should get done right. Just a module I replaced that had to be programmed with the right data for the vehicle. I put a battery and gas in it, made a couple tweaks, then took it for a couple laps up & down the driveway. I don't know if I want to fix it to a good riding condition or just a selling condition, but it's an interesting ride for sure. I'm leaning towards at least transferring and registering it so I can ride it, it'll cost a few bucks, but it'll also make it easier to sell so it kinda makes sense. To be truly road worthy it needs a fair bit of stuff, and some more stuff if I want to make it 'bulletproof' for longevity, but other than needing a headlight it's drivable enough that I should be able to figure out if I want to keep it.

The 2 door does have the 4.0, being a '97 I'm pretty sure it's an H.O. It's a base model 2WD so minimal weight. It is pretty damn quick.

I have a lot of guesses, but since the readings don't make sense to me and I'm not very knowledgeable with AC, and I'm too far to realistically inherit the machine after you get fried, I won't bother throwing out potentially deadly/wrong info. My suggestion, if nobody comes along with an answer, is to actually label them A,B,C,D. Probe every possible combination of them and post the readings. Do the same with probing each wire against the generator chassis and van chassis.

The same guy also has a '97 2 door 2WD XJ that he originally bought to do a 4.7 stroker build with, but then life changed so it's also for sale. He's that rare guy that'll pay more for a 2WD because he doesn't want that shit so he thinks they're worth more. And he might be right, four dudes on the planet will pay more for 2WD, the rest of the population will skip past his ad. The XJ is being stored at another buddy's house and he told me that he was pretty sure $1500 would get it so I considered buying it and doing a build, but the owner wants more so I let it go. The owner doesn't need the money, neither vehicle is in his way, guessing they'll both sit for a while with nothing happening.

It's a friend's, he's had it a very long time, guessing around 20 years. I don't have a price from him. He knows they're rare and somewhat sought after so it won't be a give-away, but if someone here's interested I might be able to get a decent price. 143k miles, 5 speed, 4.0L., 2wd. I did some street and highway driving, no issues other than the gas gauge being dead, probably the sender, maybe just a loose or broken wire, haven't checked. The engine is oily all over, but no drips on the ground here so far. The harmonic balancer was coming apart, I just replaced it.

A friend of a friend recently bought a new truck from out of state because he saved on the sales tax. When he went to register it here he was hit with the sales tax. Dummy wasted his time and money going out of state.

Mine's a little less shiny lot more crusty. One of the unique features is the automatic parking brake. Since there's no mechanical connection between the engine and tire to keep it from trying to roll, when you put the kickstand down it pulls a cable attached to a second caliper on the rear rotor

MotoGuzzi V-1000 Convert. The Convert is for the torque converter. It's kinda an automatic. It has a low and high, basically street gear and highway gear, but most people just run them in high all the time. It's kinda like riding a huge scooter.

Does it have a fat battery cable connected there or just multiple smaller wires? If it has a fat cable you need to find where it's connected. If it's on the battery post make sure it's got a good connection.

I asked earlier if it was an RV unit and how you verified that it charges and you said something like "yea, I tested it in my shop." I thought the "yea" was answering that it is an RV unit. Before that I stated that if it's a portable electric start generator then it will have a charging circuit. I'm not trying to make this a pissing match, just trying to eliminate confusions about generators.

Sounds like lots of monkey rigging went on. The solenoid input should be connected straight to the auxiliary battery +. My guess is that they wired it to the isolator input/engine alternator output, if I'm correct the generator won't crank without turning on the jumper switch. It's also possible that it just has a shitty connection somewhere, but I don't know why flipping the switch would cure either of those problems unless the solenoid is connected to multiple battery + connections.

EVERY RV HAS AN ON BOARD CHARGER THAT RUNS OFF THE GENERATOR. I had to shout because it seems like you're not understanding that. Any time the generator is running the rig's charger is charging the battery. The generator isn't doing the charging, it is powering the rig's battery charger to do it. When the rig is plugged into an outlet at a camp ground the same charger is running. Most of the stuff in an RV is run off the battery so it needs to have a charger even if you're plugged in at a campground. The only AC powered stuff installed in the rig is the air conditioner and microwave, everything else runs off the battery. Typically we run it 2-3 times/day for a few minutes each time; make toast in the morning, possibly microwave something, and to run the cigarette machine. That's not enough to fully recharge the battery, but enough to keep things working fine 'till it comes home. Then it gets plugged into an outlet in the back yard and the on-board charger brings the battery back to 100% and keeps it there, ready for the next outing. Are you sure your generator is an RV unit? Not something that someone used for powering an RV at some time, but a generator actually made for installation in an RV. I'm guessing not, but am very curious.

Makes me wanna drag my Convert out and fix it up. It arrived dead, the seller didn't send the title with it but it would be coming soon. I jumped in and got it running, then set off fixing various stuff. After lots of questionable delays I started to think that the title would never show up so I stopped working on it. By the time the title arrived I had lost enthusiasm and it hasn't come back. I took a very short ride around the block, the 'automatic' transmission is interesting to ride.

Is your cart generator a unit that was pulled from an RV? Post a pic please. Mine is 120v only. I've never seen an RV that uses 240 nor an RV generator that was labeled as having 240. I don't let it run all night in the desert, I run it as needed for doing stuff needing AC and occasionally just to recharge the battery. Like all RV's, the rig has a battery charger that runs off the gen. I won't run it disconnected from the battery out of fear that something could be damaged, but I might check for a charging output at some point just for shits. From many RV experiences I know that if they do have a charging circuit it's a very small amperage that'll do nothing noticeable for an RV battery.