superhawk996

If they don't have a way to verify that everything's right they know they might find themselves in court battling the pissed off customer that "just wanted a bearing replaced"...or worse yet, fighting the family of the deceased customer for the zillion dollars they're seeking in the wrongful death suit.

Assuming it's pressed in, and that you don't have a press, you're going to need something that only contacts the outer race to hammer it in without damage. The old bearing should work, but you'll probably have to grind the inner race down a bit and make sure that you keep it centered over the new one and square to the bore. Removing the old one will tell how tightly pressed it is, it might be no biggie. If it's pressed hard, I suggest taking it to a repair shop or machine shop that has a press, they "should" know how to do it properly. It doesn't have to be a bike repair shop, a bearing is a bearing. Something that'll make it easier to install, freeze the bearing and heat the housing. In cases of a light press fit, that'll often let it just drop into place.

It's a nice watch in impeccable condition, and I'd love to help you out of your financial woes, but I'll have to decline as I wouldn't want to devalue my collection by adding a lowly Tag watch to the pile of good stuff. Just fucking with you, clearly. Every once in a while I feel like getting a nice watch, but I feel that I'd need to get a fairly worn one from a brand like Rolex or Petek. Something I could occasionally enjoy that would hold value even if I put some wear marks on it. Unfortunately, that probably means paying a lot more for a much more worn piece than this.

His driveshaft is cupped....or just out of time, which will make it become cupped.

No.

Is the issue that the U joint wears out or something else? My Motoguzzi had an 'unserviceable' u joint; the suggestion was to heat it up and soak it in a tub of gear oil to lube it. They said that if you put your foot on the housing where the joint is while riding you could feel it if it was starting to go bad, otherwise you'd likely not notice 'till it was too late. Like many other parts, a properly maintained U-joint will last an eternity, once the lube is compromised the lifespan can become minutes.

If it was induced, my guess is that you did something that damaged/dislodged the cage, the thing that keeps the balls separated. It appears that the balls and races are ok, no obvious metal destruction, but it's hard to say from the photos. If that's correct then you probably did something that hit/pushed on the seal causing it to pop the cage out. If you could flatten the seal I bet it could be reassembled and be fine, if there's no metal damage.

Looks like a mechanic/DIYer induced failure.

The more logical question might be "why do you feel that you need a new charger?" But asking that would be worse than just entertaining his question about getting the NOCO he linked.

Because he made a Zerological decision to replace it with a BMW.

My best guess is that you're not getting the boot fully over the lip that retains it. You may need to use a pick or bent wire to pull it over.

I have chargers/maintainers ranging from near 0 value to over $1k. I have two go-to chargers; a 1.5A restorer and a 6amp "smart" charger that's at least 10 years old.

And I don't own a single one 😂

I took the first freeway ride yesterday, it was short and traffic kept me from getting much above 70, but it rode fine. It wanders mildly on rain groves, but not bad.

No, the garbage Jeeps go to the scrapyard. The Wranglers and XJs don't.

That wasn't a "buy now" price or I might have. No matter what was offered it was going to have to be run by mom, not sure why. If it's good. Even if it comes with a warrantee, I get stuck with pulling/swapping it. This code could be caused by fluid level/condition and might be an easy cure, or it needs a new converter, or maybe something else within the trans.

From what I know, NOCO is good stuff.

She said book value is $6k but that she didn't think she'd get it with the problems it has so I offered her the 5. She got back to me yesterday and said she needs to give her mom $7k for it, I'm considering it, but it's less attractive at 7. Odd that book is so low, even normal TJs on CL are listed well above that. It's got a few issues, but probably still worth it. Just over 100k miles. The paint is ratty, but the body is pretty good. It's kinda silver/gold-ish color. A while back she had the grill and cowl painted dark green and got green pin striping which is now faded, some of the factory paint is shot. Interior looks great, tho I didn't poke deep into it. It's a low optioned model, no power amenities, no tow package. Tires are nearly done. A few leaks that are fairly easy to fix. The two questionable problems are the A/C and a fault for the torque converter clutch. The TCC fault might be a simple wiring problem or a trans. out repair. The A/C appears to be a leak by her description, but don't know. She paid $2k a while back to get it working and said it didn't last. The trans is my main concern, if it needs a rebuild that would eat up a lot of the value.

A real man uses the one in the kitchen; if the others don't like it, they can get the fuck out! Ashley likes to talk smack when there's a basket of brass or parts in it and she wants to use it. "If you want breakfast you need to get this stuff out of my oven!" 😂 I bought a fairly big one a while back that has a rotisserie, my thought was to put it in the garage and try using it as a drum roaster for coffee beans, and for my various industrial uses. But I also have that limited space problem, and the one in the kitchen holds most of the parts I want to bake. On the rare occasion that I have a large part, or large batch of brass to dry, I use the normal oven. I've also used the BBQ a few times.

There's still plenty more to do, but she's crossed the hurdle between crusty and patina. Being the nut that I am I wanted to try to make no-sling chain lube. I diluted some moly fortified grease with mineral spirits and soaked the chain. I probably rode it a bit too soon and it did sling, but I'll see how it goes after the spirits fully evaporate. The crusty old chain cleaned up pretty well. Lots of hot bubble bathing in a sonic cleaner, another buzz bath in EvapoRust instead of degreaser, then a final degrease and thorough rinsing. After the final rinse I hit it with compressed air then stuck it in the toaster oven at 350 to make sure it was dry all the way through. I let it cool to handling temp then stuck it in the lube bag for a soaking.

The Jeep I might buy has BFG ATs, luckily they're worn out. '05 LJ that came to have me check the leaking oil drain plug today. She said KBB was $6K but didn't think she could get that much because of the various stuff it needs so I offered her $5k.

Yup. Most of the high runout tires I've seen were generic, but I had a set of name brand, pretty sure it was BFG, that were bad. One was horrible, one kinda shitty, and the other two not great. The upside is that I got warrantee on them and I bought them used, probably why the guy put them on CL with lots of tread. The model was no longer made so they gave me MSRP credit toward a new set of MTs.

No difference between parked and driving. YUGE difference between you driving it and a cop driving it, he's very unlikely to be hassled after showing his credentials.

And likely impoundment.

I saw a great one. Couple criminals with expired registration took the license plate off another criminal's car that had current reg, that car was stolen so they got dinged by a plate reader. Being that it was a felony stop several cops converged, the first cop talking with another said that he would't have even bothered stopping them for the expired reg and they would have gotten away with all the illegal shit they had. It used to be semi-safe, the cop had to run your plate to know. Now that many have automated plate readers in their cars they might get alerted to a plate that they weren't even looking at. If the plate still has current registration then it's probably semi-safe, I don't think the reader can tell that it's on the wrong vehicle.