superhawk996

Was that just from the scrubbing, or did you also use a coating?

After all the time and energy it took to lighten the rotors you actually spent money to make them heavy again?!? Dumb.

Our electricity is so expensive that driving an EV is almost as expensive as driving a Prius while drafting a semi.

1000k charger, 17.6k Smart battery; full charge quicker than a Nascar pit stop! I recently saw a video where they were showing and talking about a BYD megacharging station. On the wall behind the pedestal was a solar panel, it added to the bullshit feel of the video.

That's a little less than what the 453 can charge at, and about double what the 451 can do ☹️

There are few things that will get you laid more easily than wearing a wedding ring...so I've heard.

I'm far from an expert, but here's my hopefully better than Zero thoughts. I think 240 would be just a hair more efficient than 120 at the same wattage rate, but 240 lets you charge faster if you want to. And as Carlos pointed out, he might need the faster charing to get it done within the super off-peak times when it's cheap. Any time it's charging you're feeding computers, the contactors, probably a water pump, and maybe other shit so faster charging 'should' be more efficient since you spend less time feeding those parasites, even tho those parasites are pretty low draw. If it's hot out the AC compressor may kick in at higher charge rates to keep things cool, then you loose efficiency. If it's cold out fast charging could be way more efficient because at lower rates the heater might have to run if the batteries are too cold, faster charging creates more 'free' heat in the battery. With a really small battery like the Smart has it's possible that pushing max charge has a little more loss just because of the battery's ability to efficiently absorb the charge, but probably not. With a 'real' EV I don't think you'd get anywhere near the battery's absorbing efficiency level with a 240 outlet. And nothing sucks more than wanting to drive your car and being stuck because your 120 outlet will take several hours to get it ready. If he buys it he should definitely make a 240 circuit available for it with the highest amperage capability he can comfortably afford. And if he uses an outlet instead of hard wiring his EVSE, make sure that outlet is EV rated and not just a generic 240 outlet. 'Normal' outlets often overheat/melt/catch fire while charging EVs because even if you're not pushing its rated amperage, the continuous power draw often causes them to overheat. Normal house stuff doesn't run at full power for hours and hours like an EV charger so many people find the weak link they didn't know about.

sen·su stric·to /ˌsenso͞o ˈstriktō/ adverb formal adverb: sensu stricto strictly speaking; in the narrow sense. "the process was one of substitution rather than change sensu stricto" Origin Latin, ‘in the restricted sense’.

Retarded as usual. Ice almost never needs 5-10 minutes of jumper power before it'll start.

The 12v gets charged from the HV battery, but the contactors that connect the HV battery to the car are 12v. With a simple EV like mine it would just need a quick jump on the 12v to make everything work, but with high tech cars you have to jump it long enough to make all the computers happy before they'll activate the contactors.

Ashley had a similar incident when she accidentally killed the Excursion batteries, pretty much flat dead. AAA knucklehead was trying to start it with a jumper box, not gonna happen. She called me, I told her he needs to put jumpers on and leave them for at least 5 minutes. He was telling her to try again every 15-20 seconds, click. She tried to wait, he kept pushing, then insisted that the starter was bad. I told her to tell him to fuck off and I drove over and jumped it.

A not retarded tow truck driver?!?!? I get mildly dumb once in a while, and flat out retards the rest of the time. I can't imagine a single one of the ones I've had being able to pull off that Rivian maneuver. Most of my experiences are with drop-offs at the house. Some are drivable, some dead, none of them stuck in Park, and there's almost always a display of stupid.

In theory they should last longer because they're not being stressed with the heavy discharge/recharge of an engine, but I think the lack of that might contribute to the degradation. There's a likelihood that EVs have more parasitic load when off which is bad. I think they all charge the 12v while the HV battery is being charged which is also bad, unless the DC-DC converter is smart enough to reduce the voltage to a maintenance level instead of holding it at 14-ish volts like a 'normal' charging system does.

They seem to be hit and miss, more than normal batteries. I've had some go 9+ years even when abused, and some not make 1 year with no known abuse.

I've heard that some Costco batteries are re-branded Interstate. The only thing worse than an Interstate is a AAA battery, which I've heard is a low end Interstate. There's some evidence that Interstate batteries on the east coast, maybe central states, are different than west coast, dunno. When I see a AAA or Interstate last more than 2 years without leaking or obvious degradation it's a miracle. My 'go-to' batteries are Walmart and Oreilly. I just took a closer look at your photos and it looks like that Costco is an Interstate. I don't think that over-tightening the terminals will cause a leak, I don't think it's you, I think it's the batteries.

The discount is pretty decent. I've never done the math, but I think it's 20-30%. Some parts are a few pennies off, I've had a few that were around 70% off, it's nutty.

I lost the weight before joining.

Edit/correction to my class 7 statement; if it was in a multi engine car then the displacement would be ok.

Definitely shoulda done a leakdown test, or at least followed up with a wet compression test. That engine isn't big enough for a class 7 car so who knows what it was actually in or what the backstory is. It might have been a low compression turbo or nitrous build.

Guessing it's impacts per minute. The speeds will relate to a torque, but it'll vary some with different socket types and sizes. My Milwaukee M12 and Ryobi impacts' lowest setting are not just speeds, they're torque sensing settings. RTFM. I rarely use it, but it can be handy.

Did you do a compression and/or leakdown test before taking the head off?

I went from 42/44 to 31 and still saw fat in the mirror. It wasn't 'till I saw a photo of myself that I realized I wasn't fat. It was a photo someone took of me leaning on the fender of my Mustang Cobra and I exclaimed "who the fuck was leaning on my car?" After two people simultaneously said "it's you stupid" it still took a few seconds to actually recognize it. Guessing it was body dysmorphia.

It's not your fault; how the fuck could you in your present condition? Maybe after the surgery you'll be able to see it. I was thinking what Dave said, in different but similar words.

BTW, I'm pretty sure the intake and exhaust cams have different lobe heights so maybe you looked at the wrong specs/wrong cam measurement.

If it's still assembled you can easily test for valve vs. cylinder leakage, known as a 'leak down test'. Compressed air and a tester with gauges is the book way to do it, but you can do a simple test by sticking a hose into the spark plug hole and blowing. I wouldn't open it 'till I at least confirmed that it has low compression, I've seen this misdiagnosis before. If the plugs weren't oily it's unlikely to be a piston/cylinder problem.