superhawk996

I've only used bottles mounted in the 'normal' mounting position, but even tho those are angled down it seems like under acceleration the liquid would be pushed to the back and a pick-up tube would be more likely to pick up the liquid than without a tube. Has the theory of removing the tube actually been tested or is it just assumed that the tube needs to be removed?

Hadn't noticed there's a bottle on each side. Those would look great on my Bird! Did you make the mounting brackets for the bottles?

Is the NOS just for looks or functional? Can't see the hose. If functional, what's the set-up? Wet or dry, how much HP, ... ?

And fuck you for asking. Edit: I really like being on his ignore list.

It perfect, built by professional. So smooth it goes 12mph faster at same rpm and double extra mpg. Beat Dodge Demon on 1/4 mile.

I was pretty sure it wouldn't fetch your asking price or anywhere above 20 without super luck. My guess is that it's in the mid, maybe high, teens and dropping every day. The JL has killed the JK market and your option package will reduce buyers to a small number. The right guy will pay a premium, but there's few of those guys. My guess is that if you asked 20 you'd get more traction and it would fetch 17ish. Different coast, different market, so I don't really know.

You didn't ask me, but pretty sure it's a yes. Mine is larger than stock and it was no problem at all, had it on & off several times.

If their chain isn't good enough for the Bird then it's probably also not good enough for the KLR. You're probably thinking so since the KLR has less power, but it also has a smaller chain so proportionally it might be the about same stress level. While I understand loosing faith in JT, I doubt it's merited. If they only offer you a new chain, get it in gold and I'll gladly take it.

I totally understand wanting to get them high. Also, know that I wasn't criticizing you for saying that lowering the bike is what caused the reach problem, just correcting it. It's not a big deal, but someone reading it might think that just lowering causes a problem with the wires/hoses reaching.

The bike being lowered doesn't reduce the reach of wires/hoses, installing the bars away from the top clamp did that.

Or go get an estimate from a shop which might be a weld repair or engine case replacement.

I would present it just like you did here.

From old memory of when TFT was being super crazy: It shows a small placeholder saying 'TFT replied' or something like that. If you want to display it you have to unblock the person. I'm pretty sure there have been some changes to the site since then so who knows now. Block someone and take a look. On Calguns it shows something like F.Guffy has replied, click here to view. That guy is blocked by dozens if not hundreds of people.

He likes reminding me and others that I'm on ignore and why. He has repeatedly said, or strongly implied, that I don't know WTF I'm talking about but hasn't brought out a shred of evidence. And in this most recent one I didn't even say he had done it wrong, just that there was another way to do it, and he jumped right into the shit talking. Apparently something I've done dozens of times can't be done by him or anyone else on the planet....I guess he was right when he said I am SuperCuban and know everything.

That explains the motivation behind many of your posts, I had no idea, but it totally makes sense.

Shit like that always amazes me. I don't know what you put in your ad, but I assume it was stated and that there are photos of the interior which would make it obvious. I've had similar experiences with dumb buyers completely ignoring something that is clearly in the ad.

Maybe better than a super rare Nintendo....maybe.

I forgot to mention, there's a tool specifically for removing pinion bearings, it's safe and super quick. The bearing comes off intact allowing it to be used as a "set-up" bearing. I don't own one and have never used one, but have seen it used and it's slick.

Ahh. He still has the option to consciously ignore me, but can't pass up an opportunity to take a retarded stab. I've cut/split dozens of races, I don't need to see his particular pinion in person to know it should work, it's an ideal candidate since the race is separated from the gear giving good cutting space. If there is something special I can't see and he shows it I'll eat my words publicly; here's your opportunity Tomek, good luck. Wheel hubs are a bit more difficult because the race is generally tight to the flange, I keep a few worn down cutting discs for stuff like that, the smaller diameter lets me cut deeper into the race and closer to a flange without digging into the flange & shaft as much. Now there are cheap 'repair kits' with the bearing and hub for many cars so one doesn't have to deal with removing the bearing race. I just realized I didn't say how I cut them, a friction disc on an air powered rotary, AKA die grinder, I believe they're 3" discs. Once in a while I use one of the tiny wheels on an electric rotary, AKA Dremel, if I need to cut further into the race and don't want to cut further into the flange or shaft. The larger discs make a wide enough cut to drop a chisel into it and the race will crack along the cut line. The chisel sometimes sticks in place lightly, perfect for keeping the crack spread open and sliding the race off, then just tap it on the ground or with the hammer and they separate. When it doesn't stick I put a screwdriver into the crack and use a rotating motion, the levering opens the crack as I rotate/slide the race off. I mostly ignore him these days, but when I see him post a procedure like this I'm compelled to give my opinion and an optional procedure, others are free to decide which makes more sense for them. A separator & press make sense when the bearing isn't tightly pressed because it can be quick, or if you're trying to save the bearing for re-use.

So did any of today's buyers come though?

🤣 Just a few minutes ago I confirmed that he can't ignore ignored people.

You should stick to ignoring me, your life will be better.

Depends on what you mean by dinging the shaft. If you cut into it a little bit with the rotary tool it doesn't matter. It would take a major fuck up to ding it with the chisel, but even if you did you just file down the high spots and it won't matter. I've never done the chisel ding, it would be almost impossible. I have often cut into the shaft/hub with the rotary tool because sometimes you have to to get enough of a cut without cutting into an important part. If you meant dinging my shaft, sliding it off without cutting/splitting would have the highest likelihood of personal injury. Just to be clear, in case you've never done it or seen it, you don't have to cut all the way through the race. You cut part way though with a rotary tool (1/2-3/4-ish of it depending on the part) put a cold chisel in the slot, and smack it. The race will crack along the cut relieving the pressure and slide off pretty easily. I have a pretty nice air over hydraulic press and separators I could use, it's just retarded to go that route when I can split the race much more safely, and possibly faster, than trying to slide it off. Sliding it off has the possibility of damage way worse than a ding or cut. As the professional pointed out, it can take a fair bit of bullshit to get it off his way. The force required can lead to a really bad time, especially with shitty HF tools that might have a lot of stretch/energy buildup and unknown metal qualities. Cutting/splitting takes a few minutes and it's pretty damn safe, just don't run the cutter into yourself or let the hammer become a thumb detector and you're good. As for "securing the pinion before giving it a whack", I lay it it the concrete driveway and smack the bitch with a heavy ball peen. The only part of the gear that could possibly get dinged is nowhere near the contact area so it doesn't matter one bit. I do protect the threaded end of the pinion, but it probably wouldn't matter if I didn't since the energy is pretty far from it.

A common way to remove it is to cut part way through it then split it with a chisel. Same for pressed bearings on a wheel hub, nobody bothers with a puller since it's being thrown out anyway.

Going very very fast on very loud motorcycle and just broke no warning instantly melted titanium that is how it happen now fuck you and put on ignor.