superhawk996

Assumed on time because the annual thing is commonly accepted. You could do an oil analysis on them and see. Some engines do better than others with short trips and humidity.

Here's some stuff to ponder against doing frequent oil changes. Every time you change the oil you have a long dry start. A new filter passes more junk than one that's a little bit plugged up. According to 'experts' in the field when new oil is put in the cleaning/lubricating additives have a small battle 'till a balance is restored. This may be more of an issue when switching oil types, dunno. Also, every oil change opens the possibility of getting a bad filter, getting a bad batch of oil, making a mistake. I know they're probably 1 in a million type things, but why remove something that's still good to replace it with a new one. It would be like changing air filters every 5k, or replacing the battery every year just in case. Excessive oil changes are one of those 'feel good' things many do that might actually be worse than waiting 'till it's actually time. And it's obviously worse for the environment.

Jumping it with the car off will do no harm, car running...maybe. There's a whole lotta fishiness going on with that bike.

$2000 shipped and I'll make sure it's treated like a princess.

Perhaps, but people buying something to part it out are looking to spend a couple hundred at most, not full street value. A whole motor, $700. Swingarm, $40. Forks, $200. Gas tank, $300.....and these are prices I've seen on 'normal' mile parts, not 100k mile parts. So, many hours of work later and piles of stuff littering the garage, about half of the investment is returned. Nobody in his right mind would do this. Buying your bike with all the extras and parting out unwanted ones kinda makes sense. If someone doesn't care for the luggage and spares & stuff then selling them off does make the total price more attractive. Without those extras I wouldn't even entertain it. The biggest hurdles for either of my buddies will be not being able to see/ride it, especially because of the miles, and the shipping cost. If we were local I know they'd pay $2k, and probably 2500 if it's as clean as you say. Cosmetics are always iffy, one sees no damage and the next person fixates on every flaw. What city/state are you in?

The other resident junkyard dog already started. He's bigger, I think I'm a little quicker and able to evade the bites. If he takes it it means I don't have to think about it, no biting necessary.....but a little nibble would be a nice touch.

And what area you live in to get an idea on shipping or picking it up.

Please send me or post some daylight photos, and show any damage on the bike. I'll talk to my buddies and see if they're interested.

Searching for a price would be the logical conclusion. When I see "testing the waters" on CL it's usually someone who will only sell at top book value plus all his mods at full cost making this a $5k bike. Your assessment of $1500-2k is probably about right, depending on whether there's visible crash damage and how much. The mileage will scare off most people so the number of people willing to pay over @2k is gonna be small. I have two potential buyers, but without checking it out I wouldn't sell them on it at anywhere near his book value even with everything thrown in.

Or at least give it a charge or quick jump to see the miles. The odometer reading will be needed for the transfer paperwork so it'll need to be done anyway. When I first read his thing about not being sure of the miles I was thinking that he thought it looses track of the miles so it might be different than displayed.

I have two friends who've asked me to keep an eye out for a good XX at the right price. Shoot me a number for the whole package and I'll talk to them.

"I'll get around to that". Fuck, something else that needs fixing, ok I'll get on it soon. Fuck, 5 things that.....fuck this, it's too much to think about. I'll have a cocktail and think about it. Oh look, a squirrel.

A garage queen would be ideal. I'd take an outside bike from Az long before one from a rain/snow/freeze area. In fact I did, my 2001 obviously spent a shit load of time outside in Phoenix. The faded frame paint pretty much tells the tale, and other sun baked things confirm it. But I'm less afraid of cosmetic damage than actual damage like corrosion so to each his own. As far as coolant hoses go, if them living outside in hot weather scares you, you must be shitting yourself over the 200+ temps they see on a ride.

Try again pal, 2001 is Lamborghini Balloon White.

A dictatorship with only one rule, shit tons of freedom, no taxes, that we choose to be a part of.

You meant to say, for an idiot it sure is. To hate someone you've never met is already kinda dumb, to hate him enough that his becoming president causes you to leave the country purely because of the hatred is retarded. And if their reason really is Trump's presidency it's retarded to have waited this long.

Curiosity fucking got to me so I went back to read. Worst case scen Worst case scen

I scrolled straight to the end after about 6 posts. Kill the power, flush it out and empty it leaving the drain valve open, bypass the water lines. Some surface rust may form from sitting empty, like any piece of metal sitting around, but it won't rust out like it will if left full of water. Hope your tankless works for you, mine kinda sucks and so did my parents'.

As far moving because of Trump, I agree that's not a reasonable reason. Just like moving because my neighbor's a Jew. Moving because my Jewish neighbor or the president is doing things that negatively impact my life and the only way to stop those things from impacting me is to leave, that's a reason.

Ahhh, so we're mostly trusting that people will do what's right with extremely minimal actions from our voluntarily chosen governing body and the most aggressive action generally taken against an offender will be to ostracize him?!? ANARCHY! Had to.

That's about the price range I was guessing they'd offer. Lots of famous people said they'd leave, none did AFAIK. It would be interesting to know how many actually have left because of Trump, and previous presidents, even if the president was only a partial motivator.

I think '01 and up were all the same, not sure. They're less susceptible to corrosion than the '99 & '00, but my '01 fell victim a couple years ago. Generally the FI light will at least flicker when the loom is acting up, sometimes dimly/quickly so it may not be obvious in daylight. When mine first started showing signs hitting the kill switch off-on fixed it so I figured it was the switch contacts, which can also act up. I assume there was a little bit of resistance in the switch adding to the growing resistance of the loom because the problems started coming back quickly, then got real bad. I checked the computer for fault codes and it had a bunch. Knowing that the loom is a common connection to all the sensors I finally cut into it and it was pretty bad. BTW, we're calling it the loom, harness, etc., I think the proper term is 'check connector' or something like that. All of the sensor grounds come together at that connector so when the resistance goes up from corrosion you can get several fault codes. Under the seat near the ECU is a two wire connector, you put a wire in it to connect those to each other and the FI light will flash the fault codes.

Is your FI light coming on, or flickering at all?

Measuring/copying just ain't gonna work. Send me the wheels and I'll engineer some proper spacers. When I get done enjoying the wheels I'll send them back to you with the spacers.

I'll take it, PM on the way.