SierraKLR

Don’t forget to create your own weather proofing, you can’t trust the manufacturer and that clear plastic. That will obviously fail. Post pics of your genius tarping when complete. No one knows better than you!!!

I see what you did there😎. Trolling Zero like that….brilliant!!!

Not made up. Surge spikes ( aka Transients ) are extremely high, 80kA is actually low in the surge world. We apply 240kA devices typically for commercial service entrance at 1200A and above. The “cascade” that was referenced in previous posts is what we do commercially. 240kA at service entrance. 120kA in downstream panels where there is concerned load equipment. The 240kA device “clips” the big stuff, the 120kA diverts the rest of the transient.

This. Move on. I’m not sure even you could fuck up the install….but please send pics when you do…..

Surge supression devices are rated in kA, not AIC. Addressing Surge per breaker is non effective given typical home wiring. Use a whole house device or address at the load/plug level. AIC rating is for electrical equipment based on the fault current available on that circuit. The breakers in your panel are 10,000 AIC rated, which is typical for a residential service. 10,000 AIC is the current minimum rating at 120/240V of all the major manufactures for Loadcenters. (Eaton, Siemens, Schneider Electric & GE/ABB You must provide equipment to or above the AIC rating. Calxx is wrong, exceeding the AIC rating of your service is not an issue, but adds no value. Providing equipment rated below your AIC requirement is not allowed. I do this for a living and have for 35 years (Schneider Electric = Square D Company). Hire someone that knows what they are doing as you do not.

TechSpec Gripsters. They come in a couple of textures. The are removable. They are awesome. I have/had them on every bike I own. They will provide a generic piece for you to cut at home or you can send them a template and they will cut to order. They have bike specific as well as universal fit. https://techspec-usa.com

And now those safety chains are rusted! The strength is compromised. You should remove those and store safely some place warm and dry. Properly clean, heat and oil-quench to restore. Better yet, start over, buy a new set. Those cannot be trusted. They look on the small side anyway. Do better research to make sure the new set is properly sized. I hear they make them in stainless…. Oohhh wait…does stainless have the same tensile strength as regular, zinc-plated?? Oh shit….more research……

Dodge OEM. 1000# tongue rating. But look away, this solution will not work for you. Nowhere near enough tie down locations for your 10 strap, spider web anchoring method.

Just hitch carry…..simple and drama free.

Damn arrogant mechanics ! I don't know what their problem is...I love it when people come into my business and tell me how I am doing it wrong and their ideas, terms, scheduling and timelines are so much better than mine. I also love to let them dictate the price, because you know, "the customer is always right " !!!

Of course they do. 🤣

…or .maybe you should have left it alone in the first place, but appreciate your efforts so we can all enjoy the journey!

The issue is that most circuit breakers are labled at their free air rating or handle rating. The moment you put the in an enclosure or any type NEC requires a 20% defraying due to ambient heat. Hence the 20% derating Wire is tested and labeled at it’s 90 degree C rating, but NEC requires that it be sized ,for load purposes, at it’s 70 degree C rating

Really??? We are talking Zero here…bahahahahahahaha….he was probably using a Chinese sourced and garage sale purchased impact gun on the bleeder.

You are doing it all wrong!!!! This is the ultimate solution. No way you could screw this up🤣. Elegant and cheap. Perfect for you,