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Everything posted by IcePrick

  1. https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters
  2. I thought they were more "ricer" style, but I like both rice and beans.
  3. Somebody marketed that as a kit at one time... "superbike bars" or some such thing.
  4. Based on the time I've spent chasing issues that weren't, I would simply replace the battery. I have the luxury burden of having several motorcycles, so I almost always have a battery I can swap out to test with. Though right now, batteries are missing, bad, or questionable in 4 out of 5 bikes.
  5. Can you quantify this? I only ask, respectfully, because I don't personally know your knowledge level, and in my experience, it's almost always the battery. If you can replace "fine" with "12.8v at rest after not running/charging it for a day", I'd feel better about going down the rabbit hole. FWIW, my '97 exhibited exactly the same symptoms on a road trip after I had just gone through and tested the system and upgraded the R/R. I messed with it for days in the middle of my vacation because I knew the battery was "fine". Guess what I bought at Autozone that fixed it?
  6. Not really "better" than OEM in most cases, but aftermarket can extend the service life beyond where the factory equipment begins to experience normal out-of-spec/tolerance variation - though in many cases, a performance upgrade is selected at the time of replacement. Some models with factory parts that were oriented more towards economy can be transformed into full-on race machines, though... usually accompanied by increased maintenance and repair costs commensurate with the increased performance level. Performance costs money - how fast do you want to go?
  7. There are custom-machined options as well, probably stupid expensive though. One thing I've noticed is that most of the super light aftermarket wheels use 520 chains to stay with the weight loss regimen.
  8. A friend tells me that several of the aftermarket wheel companies use the same sprocket - Marchesini Type A. Check out Supersprox rst-7090-45 or Sunstar RM-102. The dimensions seem off for what you measured but I don’t know how accurate you got - 76mm center and 100mm bolt circle.
  9. I'm living proof that you never know what the universe has coming your way. Mongo just a pinball in the arcade of life.
  10. Ah. Looks like a Ducati-ish adaptor. That's going to be a fun journey.
  11. JT gives the dimensions of their sprockets in their online catalog, but it can only be searched by application so that makes it *a little* time-consuming. Can you share the application? Or is it too obscure for a search?
  12. While I've gleaned a lot of personal satisfaction from original jugs, there are many advantages to aftermarket. You had to know that was coming, right?
  13. Something Italian.
  14. Well, it IS the Dave channel now... only fair that you fund it. I'm prepared to give up my free speech, but when does it IPO? 😚
  15. I hope this is the answer. It still wouldn't eliminate a problem in the harness along the way or a PCM/FICM malady, but here's to hoping. When I encounter a new problem on one of my machines, I have to ask myself "okay, what's the last thing you monkeyed with? Aaaand that's usually where I find my answer.
  16. Cool, you taught me something about Forscan. 😁
  17. What about trying a screen recorder app? Let the truck run while connected to the laptop, recording the screen to a video file. You won't have to stay glued to the screen waiting for it to randomly quit.
  18. I never understood this. Shouldn't a properly operating engine thermostat allow the engine to come to temp? Or is there enough constant bypass to keep it cold in those temps?
  19. Brown wire didn't work - key in "run" position? It isn't a manual, right? (don't hit me next time you see me) Based on what you say about temps - especially the minute or two of startup - guessing it is a false... so, how to find the source? Did you install the resistor, or was it modded when you bought it? Just a resistor to give a static value, or resistor in addition to sensor in order to send a lower but still variable value? If you disconnect the sensor (and don't have it jumped with a resistor), it should run but give a number of codes. One of the Ford TSBs for EGT sensors is to disconnect/clean the connectors at the sensor, grease it, reconnect it and seal it with heat shrink. Also to remove/reseat the big multi-connector at the module the EGT goes to. I have no idea which module this is. Just evidence that there is a history of dirt/connection problems. Wish I was closer, I'd love to play with that problem...
  20. The starter bypass is a wire near one of your battery positive terminals - look for a lone wire that has a rubber pull-apart connection close enough to the positive lug to reach it when you pull it apart. It should be brown with a green tracer. It is on the passenger side on my 7.3, assumedly to keep you out of traffic if you need to be messing with it, so I'd guess it is on the passenger side of yours as well. Turn the key on, touch the male end of the connector to the battery positive clamp bolt, and viola - you bypassed the starter interrupt from the PCM, and while the 60-minute time-out is still running, so is your engine. If you get an instant or near immediate shutdown (or failure to start), my guess is the fault condition still exists - either the sensor is actually hot, or it still mistakenly thinks it is. Do you still have a cat? No other codes at the same time? Not sure what you mean by "spreadsheet data" that you can't find?
  21. Not sure if you ran across this more complete description in your search yet. P200E - Catalyst System Over Temperature (Bank 1) Description: The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the exhaust gas temperature bank 1, sensor 2 (EGT12) and exhaust gas temperature bank 1, sensor 3 (EGT13) sensors for an over temperature concern. If the EGT12 sensor temperature is greater than 830°C (1,526°F) or the EGT13 sensor temperature is greater then 950°C (1,742°F), the DTC is set. This DTC causes the PCM to immediately illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) and enter a torque reduction failure mode effects management (FMEM), which may result in engine shutdown. Once the engine is shut down, the PCM prevents the engine from restarting for 1 hour. If the EGT13 sensor is not working, the engine will not start. Possible Causes: Diesel particulate filter regeneration occurred during heavy load and high ambient temperature conditions Excessive amount of soot or ash in the diesel particulate filter Damaged EGT12 sensor Damaged EGT13 sensor Coolant contamination of the exhaust system Oil contamination of the exhaust system Diagnostic Aids: This DTC is an informational DTC and may be set in combination with a number of other DTCs which are causing the FMEM. Diagnose other DTCs first. Check the EGT12 and EGT13 PIDs. If no other DTCs are present, the system is operating correctly at this time. Advise the customer of the conditions that may cause this DTC.
  22. Has anyone from FTE posted the diagnostics procedure (pinout) from the Ford manual for your code? It won't find an intermittent for you, but it can give you a laundry list of the systems, subsystems, harnesses, sensors, and dependencies involved. I like your guess about the non-specific code - my limited experience with the "generic" codes, ones that don't specifically say something like "EGT2, out of range (high)", are systemic and caused by ground problems, rfi, or wierdness in the responsible ecm. Are there any accessories installed in the truck that might induce rfi or otherwise cause a dirty power signal? I'd also want to verify that it isn't a valid engine-threatening condition before bypassing.
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