SR71BLACKBIRDXX

The board can rest easy. I put the call in to the proper authorities. Unregistered vehicle, misuse of plates, tax evasion.

Oh fuck yeah. When I bought my VFR a few years ago, it had like 2800 original miles. I knew the entire bike had to be gone though. Original everything. Fluids, battery, tires, you name it. The seller didn't seem to grasp the concept of this. He thought it was "road ready " If I brought that thing to a dealer to be gone through, it would have been a couple grand easy. I never tallied what I spent on it, but I'd say it was close to $1000 to make it safe and mint.

Just chillin buddy. Thought about going to take a look at it. Just for the fun of it. What do you think is worth? 7-8k?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1255664622496855/?mibextid=dXMIcH Sorry for the Fagbook link. In the event anyone is interested, I'm like 10 miles away

Cleaned the seals out the best I could. Didn't see any shit come out. Wiped them clean and rode it for two days. One tube slightly wet to the touch, but not pooling up on the dust seal like before. I'll leave it for now. Hopefully it doesn't get any worse than that. I guess it's not the space shuttle

2000 VFR and oem seals Yeah well mine were leaking when I bought it. 3200 miles. Then started leaking again @ 5000 miles. Now weeping again at 6300 miles. Can't imagine there's much crud in there, but definitely worth a shot cleaning them first. Edited to add... Running 7.5w oil instead of the OEM 10w should make zero difference... right?

He's got some shit, that's for sure. Doubtful he has what I'm looking for though. Any fork tube that's been laying around is bound to have some issues. Mine still look pretty good. Literally pin pricks here and there. I should try cleaning them first. It just never occured to me. Leaking in 1500 miles? Doesn't make sense.. unless the seals are just that sensitive.

Never tried cleaning them. Don't think I've ever had a problem like this other than on a dirt bike. I've got new seals and oil ordered already. So I guess I'll throw them in. I don't mind spending the money on tubes as I'll probably die with this bike. Just boggles my mind that the smallest imperfections would cause a leak. I've owned bikes with 40k+ miles that were perfectly dry.

This will be the 3rd time in 4 years my fork(s) have started weeping. They have a few very light pits. Like you can barely catch your nail on them. But yet I can't seem to keep them sealed. I'm not talking running down the fork leg, but it starts to collect on the dust seal. I've tried 0000 steel wool. Tried the epoxy thing. Tin foil.. nothing seems to work. Went so far as replacing the bushings, which only had 5000 original miles on them and looked brand new. No dice. To the point now where its like do I get them re-chromed, or get aftermarket. Not a whole lot of options for 25 year old junks. Race Tech sells TNK, and there might be a couple other Chinese crappers out there. I'm sure getting them redone would cost the same.. maybe more. Anyone with similar problems?

Dropped a valve shim down the cam chain valley on a CRF250. Was in a rush and didn't stuff a rag in there. Fished around the crankcase for an hour with a magnet to no avail. Thought I was going to have to tear the whole motor down. Turns out it was stuck to the stator\flywheel. Had to "borrow" a puller, but narrowly avoided disaster.

Not so sure I would agree with that. Certain low pressure cartridges maybe. 45-70 comes to mind

I've been reloading shotgun shells for as long as I can remember. Never gave a rats ass as to what hull I was using. All my 12 ga are loaded to 1oz and are strictly for pounding clay pigeons out in the corn field with a bunch of friends. Im ashamed to say this, but I've literally had lead shot falling out of the crimp. I've mixed green and red dot together. I've mixed shot size together. Hulls, primers.. Whatever. Never ever had a failure in 30 years. On the flip side, when I reload rifle and pistol rounds, I adhere to strict guidelines. There's no fucking around. Anyway.. I'll take whatever. Never been a 12ga hull i couldn't reload

I used to have garbage bags of these things. Just threw them away after reloading\shooting them. It was a different world back then. Anyway, I still have bags of 20 ga once fired hulls that I don't really reload anymore. Mostly Remington. Anyone out there have any 12 ga hulls they want to get rid of? Possible trade for some 20 ga?

Always had excellent results with Michelin tires. I've had Roads and Powers. Always got 5-7000 miles out of them, depending on the bike. More so than that..Michelins are one of the very few tires I've tried that will go until they're bald without chopping the front tire. Never liked Dunlop's, and have had mixed results with Bridgestones. Contrary to Carlos, Avons we're the absolute worst tire I ever purchased. Azaros I believe. I put them on my 99 XX. I actually had them dismounted after 500 miles or so. They made the bike actually wobble at slow speeds. I'm talking straight line, 30 mph. Fucking horrible.

Sold.. Guy flying in from Chicago and riding it back. Crazy bastidge. It's a sad day, but like my buddy says.. "It's just a fucking motorcycle, dude"

9300 miles and set up for about a 200 pounder

Time to let my baby go. 2015 Carbon. As you can see from the pictures, its near perfect with many extras. Original owner. Things you can't see include Andreani fork internals, red key, K=90 rear spring, and Shivs tune..(which is perfect). Probably other stuff I'm forgetting. I have most of the stock parts. The battery is original to the bike. Still starts fine, but I'm sure it's days are numbered. Also the rear tire is probably half worn. Front is fine. Asking $13000 on Cycle Trader, but Ill let it go here for $12000. Better pictures can be taken at any time.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder buddy. If that's what he likes, then that's great. I think it's god awful.

Nice way to fuck up an awesome motorcycle. OP.. Good luck with the purchase. I know what I had to go through to get a 20 year old, low mileage bike back to where it should be. Hopefully you don't have to do a fucking thing.

While this is mostly true, deals are out there. Just paid $3700 for a 100% stock 2000 VFR800 with 2800 miles. The owner wanted $5500. Trying to convince him that the bike is gonna need $1000 or more of work to get it road worthy wasnt easy. In most instances, a 20 year old bike with 2000 miles is gonna need more work than a 20 year old bike with 20000 miles. In my case, the whole bike needed to be gone through. Original everything, right down to the tires. Glad you found your XX. Hopefully the shop goes through the ENTIRE bike. For $7500, you better not find a missing push pin. Good luck

I suppose I'll just try it and see. I'd like to think if I transfer the line over quickly enough, the air bubble should be confined to at or near the banjo bolt. As long as I don't pump the lever, it should stay there.

I wanna change out my front brake master. Is there a way to swap it out without re-bleeding the whole system? Yeah, I know it's no big deal and I've done it countless times. I was just wondering. Cant imagine that the air pocket would travel down the front brake line into the caliper or the secondary master on the fork. I thought it might be possible to hook up a syringe type apparatus to a front bleeder and push fluid\air back up into the reservoir. Ordinarily, I'd just rebleed.. but I literally just flushed the entire system. Took me hours, but it was well worth it. Anyway, thoughts?

Are those 5th gen VFR Helis? If they are, I might snake them

If you think that's pricey, check this out! I wouldn't pay that much if it was still in the crate. https://www.powerhousemotorsportsct.com/vehicle-details/1999-honda-cbr1100x-blackbird-8dddd397a504664eb41450eeeeaeda19# I've been to that dealer multiple times. They have a lot of used, clean stuff. Most units are overpriced, but I hear they negotiate quite a bit

Gotcha. Let me know if anything changes.