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RC Randy

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RC Randy last won the day on November 5 2013

RC Randy had the most liked content!

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About RC Randy

  • Birthday 01/17/1962

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  • Other Bikes
    99XX,01XX, 03XX,14 Hayabusa, 12 ZX14R, 04 ZZR1200

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  • Location
    Wichita, KS

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  1. I would think your chances of bursting a radiator hose will come long before a brake hose. I have had a coolant hose burst on my 99 XX and have also installed the Galfer 11 line kits on two of my XX's. Great instructions with plenty of pictures and no issues during or after the install. Just plan for a full day.
  2. I have the same issue with the gas cap on my 2012 ZX14 and it is a known issue on many Kawi's since they share the same cap. Never had a problem with my 2008 zx14. Houdini is a good product and I have also used a this product with good results- https://m.3inone.com/3inone-lock-dry-lube.php
  3. The Galfer kit uses the OEM hard lines and fittings. Link is to kit and also installation instructions with many detailed pictures. http://galferusa.com/product/honda-2003-cbr-1100-xx-super-blackbird-multiple-lines-fk003d323-11
  4. I've installed the 11 line Galfer kits on 2 of my XX's. They have great installation instructions, and are well labeled to help the install go well. Plan on spending most of a day by the time you get the brake and clutch systems bled down. I too like the LBS, and you will notice a big difference on initial bite and less effort required to stop.
  5. Not mine- Looks like a nice bike. Would be glad to check it out if someone was interested. https://wichita.craigslist.org/mcy/6059341151.html
  6. I've had both of my Ohlins resprung for my 160# weight and have one of the 1092-69/170 left. I did put about 10K on it before I switched it to a lighter spring. It is nice condition, but I did find a couple of small chips. Attached is a pic. One chip on the inside, right of the OHLINS print and the other at the light reflection 2nd coil from the bottom on the outside. $40 Shipped
  7. RC Randy

    Brake woes

    You may try rebuilding your secondary master cylinder. It's been awhile, but I could bleed my 99 XX and have a firm rear pedal, and after a couple of days of comuting it would start going soft and require a few pumps to get firm at the top of the rear brake pedal. I went through an insane amount of brake fluid bleeding the brakes many times, thinking I had air trapped somewhere. Installed a kit in the secondary master and it solved the problem.
  8. That is a clean machine for 90K miles. Looks showroom new. Good luck with the sale.
  9. I've noticed the same. My 99 XX with almost 100K still out pulls my 01 with 35k and my 03 with 8k. Mine are all stock with no gearing changes. It would be fun to do back to back dyno runs.
  10. RC Randy


    Have not had first had experience, but I'm sure they are waterproof. Some sellers on Ebay show the same meter submerged in a glass of water.
  11. The only OEM obsolete part I have ran across is 2001 and older fuel tanks. Last I checked all OEM bodywork is available. You won't find it that good with Kawasaki. Not long ago my foot slipped on frost coated grass standing still, and my 2012 ZX14R fell over. All I needed was a right hand lower body panel in Metallic Spark Black, but it was already obsolete. Luckily I found a new one on Ebay. Thought about getting rid of it until I got over it.
  12. With a suggestion from a member on the com., I may have found the issue. When I installed the pair block offs I didn't remove the reeds and the little phillips screws were causing the plates not to seal at the back even though I used RTV. Once removed you could see they had not made contact to make a seal. I did the block offs on my 99XX with a kit a fellow member (Redd) sold, but that was 10 years ago, and I must have forgot and I obviously wasn't paying attention.
  13. One of the things I thought of after start up, so I switched it out with a new one. Made no difference. I brought up the battery issue, because I had read that sometimes starter clutches hang up. I will probably end up putting it back together and try to zone in on exactly where the noise is coming from. I feel a little better about it since everything appears normal on the inside and if it is still there I will post a video.
  14. Got my 01XX back together yesterday after shimming a tight exhaust valve. Now I have a noise that I can't figure out. When I got home today I pulled the valve cover and checked what I thought could be causing it and found nothing. It is a metallic noise, more that just a tick. I did run it yesterday and took if for a ride around the block. Runs as it should and noise seems to go away after 3k rpm's but almost sounds like a diesel at idle to about 3k. Thought maybe it dropped the valve I shimmed, so I went through all the valves and they all are the same and the one I shimmed is ch
  15. Yes, I did put assembly lube on he shim. I'm going to put it back together, do a throttle body sync, new plugs, air filter, and check them again in 15K. I'm trusting common sense and the measurements I took during the process and I did triple check. I went with a .05 smaller shim which should take me from .19 to .24 clearance. I did check the rest of the intakes on this round after reinstalling the cams and they stayed the same. Odd to only get .01 clearance increase from a .05 smaller shim, so hopefully running will seat things and it will be ok next check.
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