brianmacza

small step to C#

What mileage has the bike done? My '97 is on 279k km now, and is using a fuckton of fuel compared to 15 years ago. Took the needles and mainjets and looked at them under a strong magnifying lens and the wear is visible. I have replacement needles and stock mains on order, and waiting for arrival. Might be worth considering if your bike has seen high mileage

https://www.amazon.com/dehumidifiers/b?ie=UTF8&node=267557011

Humidity - reduce that and it goes away

Do you have a radiator protector? The securing wires on mine worked loose and it rattled annoyingly beween 2500 and 3500 RPM until I tightened them up.

The bits were stuck in one of the hoses... never got enough bits to make me think I got them all though .

Dunno... normal antifreeze mix and the engine started running HOT and none of the diagnostics found anything - even flow tested the rad. Pulled the water pump and found most of it missing

I had the water pump on my '97 fail in about 2008 - all the impeller blades had broken off. Since then I had the replacement pump seals fail... current one seems ok and the bike is on 155,000 km -ish

Pilot road 4

I run 16 front 44 rear and the chain is 108 links Works great for my needs at 1700m above sea level - power wheelies in 1st no problem. DO you allready have a speedohealer?

you checked for spark?

as long as he doesn't pull a Clinton and debate the meaning of the word "is"

heh... I'm a Virgo, and we Vorgoans don't believe in that horoscope bullshit. Almost as bad as religion.

One of the mods should change his title to "board Rambo"

You can remove the front lens of the headlamp, fit the projctor units in the sockets for the H7 bulbs, and reseal. There are a couple of Youtube tutorials on this process and they seem to be effective (altho the ones I watched were for HID projectors I doubt there is any functional difference in the process) and you use the normal lamp adjustment wheels to direct the beams where you need them.

Or a hose clamp might be loose enough that a tiny weep gets past when cold but swells up enough to seal when hot. Stranger shit happens...

Look at the caliper slider pins sometime. Those get gunk ed up and that causes the caliper to stick, preventing it from keeping the disk central and balanced between the pads

My '97 pops up on an energetic gearchange 1st to 2nd, and will come up with a tug on the bars. And thats at 1700m above sea level. I reckon that a trip to the coast is warranted now

my '97 has been well used, the plastics have been replaced twice due to my abundant lack of riding talent, and with 230.000 km its still on the original clutch. Given that all maintenance has been done by my fumbly fingers over the last 200.000km plus, I would say that age is NOT an issue. The XX is reliable as a hammer

I have about 230k km on my '97 original clutch. If you're getting pulsing thru the lever it would tend to point to a warped steel plate or 2 - might need to get that validated before a reassembly. If the clutch isn't slipping you could consider Pazzo or other aftermarket levers which could change the feel completely by moving the base adjustment value closer to the bar.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/vm-racings-179-hp-honda-cbr1200xx-fire-bird

Look at the K1300 - the K1200 had known weaknesses in the geartrain. A guy I know lunched a K1200 gearbox in the first week of owning it and they gave him a new bike because it was a known design flaw

Stop dicking around and do the R1 RR mod - mine's been bulletproof.

Yup... it went over his head like fuckin' swissair...