lensmanxx

For sale, 1997 XX, black with 24,000 miles on it. Rear shock has been modified, K&N air filter, `Kisan pulsing module for lights, heli bars, rear rack, saddle bags, and D&D mufflers are the main additions. contact me at 267 444 9133. I am located in Cheltenham township, just outside of Philadelphia. Price is $2300.

Check STN and search that site. I remember reading a detailed article on delinking, I'm not sure it was on that forum, or this one. I do remember that the calipers are modified by drilling so all pots activate with the respective brake levels.

Since they'll be sitting for at least two years, I decided to drain the gas tanks and spray WD40 in them. I contacted the company, and found that it can easily be removed with acetone, mineral spirits, or Dawn dish washing detergent. Draining the tanks was a real pain to get the last dregs out, especially from the fuel pump in the tank on the SV (attached a pump). For you SV650 owners with fuel injection: to get the tank off you'll need to disconnect the fuel line at the tank end. In order to do so, you need to squeeze both ends of the clip on the swivel fitting at the same time. In order to accomplish this, disconnect the power plug, then remove the tank bolt. This will let you rotate the tank (empty) to get to the fitting. Be careful not to bend the steel nipple it's attached to, because if you break/stress it, it will mean a new fuel pump for the tank. Both bikes have had oil placed in the pistons and cranked for a second or two ( w/o the plugs) to coat the cylinders. I then put the plugs back with caps to keep dirt/ moisture out. PITA to do that on the 'Bird. Carburetors and injection line has been drained as well.

Since I won't be riding the bike for a while, I emptied the tank, and ran air through it to chase out remaining vapors. I'm thinking of flushing it with nitrogen gas and sealing it up, or spraying WD40 or some other rust inhibitor that I can remove with acetone when I'm back. What's best?

I sent an old XX stock rear shock to Traxxion Dymanics- They rebuilt it- new fluid, gas, spring, and revamped rebound control for around $200, IIRC. Next is drop in emulator cartridges with rebound/compression adjustments for the front.

I have the manual, thanks. It is a PITA. I've thought about delinking them more than once for this reason.

I use the rear once in a while when I've slowed down, say around 15- 20mph as I roll up to the light, or for hard braking, on rare occasions when it's needed.

I didn't consider that. I hope that's it. The seller gave me a maintenance list- brakes weren't on it, but that doesn't prove anything. I'm doing all three because they're linked, otherwise I would have done just the rear set. I'll flush the brakes as well - also in case there's anything binding the caliper- I'm in no mood to pull apart the caliper right now to inspect it. This and the SV is adding up.

I checked the pads on the bike, and was surprised that the rears are worn down to point of needing replacement. There is still about half left on the front pads. Is this normal for linked brakes- especially if the rear is used, or is the rear not releasing and I'm getting some friction? I don't notice any dragging when I clean the chain. BTW, just ordered EBC HH pads, the same are spec'd for the front and rear- doing all three sets. Ordering online is a pain when front and back are different. The bike has 26k on it, and probably the pads are the second set, wouldn't be surprised if original. Can't tell for sure.

I had the SV front end done by Traxxion Dynamic- I think the oil is an 8 weight.

They show the tank gr ( lee valley) for various bikes, but not the BB. Which one did you get? BTW- thanks for the link

The front pads on my SV are getting near replacement time. There's only 8500 ( split my riding time btw 2 bikes) miles on them, but they're worn down. Is this normal wear for OEM stuff? I have Galfers for replacement pads. ( Didn't find any info on a forum search, zilch at STN & SV Rider) Also, what's average for the Blackbird?

You should be getting around 14.5 volts at 5000 rpm, if I recall the number from the manual. BTW, for my SV, it's around 14 volts, also measured at 5000 rpm. 19 is way too high. I'd get a voltmeter and permanently wire into the electrical system. It will come in handy, especially if you run a lot of accessories like heated clothing. This way, if the voltage drops below 13 volts, you know you have to switch off something in order not to drain the battery.

I had a guy on a '97 BB like mine pass me, and he had some sort of manufactured hand fairing on, but I couldn't see any details other than it is black in color. That might be what he had on the bike. I think they will get in the way if you turn the bars all the way to the lock with my set up, but thanks for the heads up. It never ceases to surprise me with all the accessories made for one make and model that can be used on other ones. As for getting a Goldwing Dave, I have enough to handle with the 'Birds weight. The last thing I want is a heavier bike. I wouldn't mind swapping the 'Bird one day for the 2011 naked Speed Triple. I'll trade 10hp for some 90lbs less weight than the Blackbird. Ask Hobi how much mine weighs with saddle bags and a tank bag. He moved it to get the bike in line for pictures the last time I was at Towanda, and he nearly busted a gut moving it.

yes - you're looking at the throttle side.

the orange light is my front turn signal, folded back If the hand guard shown by Wario can clamp onto the bar end weight- it'd work there's no space on the helibar for the clamp/ support otherwise

I needed something as a temporary wind break, but it turns out they work fairly well. I saw a couple of members lament not having anything for wind protection. I used a couple of tupperware plastic tubs for materials, and obviously covered them with tape. The fairing for the throttle side is reinforced with a strip of heavy plastic to keep the wind at speeds over 65mph from pushing the fairing into the brake lever and activating the brake light. I used cardboard as a pattern to get the shape and fit. The cut out is to clear the mirror with the handlebars at lock. Note the twisted up 'O' ring wrapped around the lever near the pivot point of the lever. This keeps the wind from collapsing the fairing in toward your hand. I added the mods (o-ring & grey plastic reinforcement) after the first run with it on the bike. This did the trick. Use coarse steel wool to rough up the surface of the plastic before applying the tape. You can probably use spray paint, but I didn't test it out- I'm not sure it will hold. It's not a problem on the clutch side- just tape or o-ring on the pivot point side of the lever. I'm working on a version of hippo-hands that is more flexible and will work with the tight space on my bike due to my helibars and zero gravity touring windscreen. It will fold up when off the frame, making it easy to pack and keep handy in case of a turn in weather. Whether or not it will be worth selling remains to be seen.

light weight mufflers will go a long way in reducing weight. The bike is a bit on the heavy side. I understand light weight wheels quicken turning, but haven't seen any reports from other riders. the 6mm shim is a given.

FYI- Metzler says its Z6 should have no more than 41psi cold. Were you running them at max pressure? If so, why?

This just happened to my friends VFR (1999 vintage). What is it with Honda's power/rectifier systems? Makes me think about taking long trips. Jeez....

Hey Big Guy- it's yours. Done.

I have several hundred once fired .380 brass, mixed headstamp that I will give to a member. I only ask to be reimbursed for shipping costs. I'll PM you on the mailing cost and enclose a stamped return envelope. I just want to get this stuff out of the house. If you're local to me (Philly area) and can pick it up, I'll throw in some turkey decoys- no idea when I'll be going hunting again.