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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    33.5 MPG around town doesn't seem like something to worry about.
  2. 1 point
    Whether or not that fixes your problem, Craig is spot-on about the fuel increase. I just checked the Charlotte area on pure-gas.org (www.pure-gas.org) and there are a shit-bucket load of stations around there. No need for premium. BTW, the gauges are very bike specific. My “new” bird’s readings vary drastically from my old one. Both 1999 FI’s. Expect 220 miles per tank, and thank Allah if you do better. The blended gas has not been kind to your fuel lines, replacement is easy enough.
  3. 1 point
    I have been living that dream too. Kirsten has a 1993 Lebaron, needs all front end replaced. Chris just returned from afganistan. He has never owned a car. Both are looking. I get up some morning with only a bike to ride. I have spent many a long night rebuilding a childs, or my own car to get to school. I even put a ring gear on backwards once. Old VW and porsche would let you do that. Drove a 356 to school for a week with one forward gear.
  4. 1 point
    If avaiable, try a couple of tanks of non ethanol gas and check mileage. My 01. Gets much better mileage (2-3 mpg) on good old gas. As posted by others, my vacuum lines were cracking, and caused some problems too.
  5. 1 point
    I rarely see a FPR failure other than leaking into the vacuum hose. You can check this by just pulling the hose off and turning the key on to create pressure. On occasion they'll only leak when hot so if you see nothing cold try it after a ride. When the one on my '01 failed it started out not obvious, just a little bit stumbly here & there and some slow starts, eventually it started running like shit as the FPR got worse.
  6. 1 point
    A good mechanic knows when to punt. I currently have a 1961 beetle convertible and a 1965 type 2 truck. Neither drivable at this time. Retirement projects. The old ones require some special tools. But the modern water Cooled VW have parts that seem to be designed to fail. My initial post was to get knowledge of alternate processes to remove the screw. We have a great knowledge base here. In the day, I have carried a VW engine in to a machinist to get a broken exhaust stud removed.
  7. 1 point
    Start with new vacuum lines. Just get generic line at Auto Zone, etc, cut to correct length and replace them all . You have to figure out ID of stock lines before heading to the store. It is gonna cost you like 2 bucks. Replace them piece by piece so you wont waste time trying to figure what goes where. It is cheaper and quicker than checking whether they are good or not. Ecu on XX needs accurate pressure or vacuum reading from intake ports to operate properly under light load conditions. In heavy load area it is rpm and % of throttle opening system.
  8. 1 point
    Harbor freight nut removal tool. Worked good. Almost made the bolt head into a reverse torx. But it workrd
  9. 1 point
    If you made the bolt head red hot you drew the hardness down and promoted the deformation. Next time try heating, a paint heat gun is convenient, and immediately spray with cold water. Repeat several times. The last time don't spray it with cold water, put a six point socket or wrench on it and wack that with a hammer to break it free. Since its lock tighted, and deformed, bite the bullet and weld a much larger nut onto the deformed head and use method above.
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