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Fuel line disconnect


Zero Knievel

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Another thread made me wonder.

On the FI XX, is there a kit to convert both fuel lines so that you can cut off the fuel and disconnect the lines without the usual mess and hassle involved?

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Another thread made me wonder.

On the FI XX, is there a kit to convert both fuel lines so that you can cut off the fuel and disconnect the lines without the usual mess and hassle involved?

There's pics on the other site.

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  • 7 months later...

I might go ahead with this idea.

I found this site - http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html

Those are for BMWs. When I contacted them, they said:

If your fuel line is 5/16" inside diameter (8X13mm metric) then that kit should work fine assuming you have enough room to install them. You'll need about 3 1/2" on free line in a place you can get at to connect and disconnect them. Hope this helps

Of course, I don't know the INNER diameter of the fuel lines and the Honda manual doesn't give specifics. Anyone know?

arcon,

You said you needed -10 lines, but that you suspect the stockers are -6. This means you are running modded lines and not OEM, right? I e-mailed Jiffy-Tite to get their recommendations as well.

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arcon,

You said you needed -10 lines, but that you suspect the stockers are -6. This means you are running modded lines and not OEM, right? I e-mailed Jiffy-Tite to get their recommendations as well.

Correct -- and those in you link look interesting too. Check out SummitRacing.com too.

Remember, it is fuel.. a liquid. Nothing major except it has to handle more PSI than a NA motor.

Do you need a special tool to make these things go onto the fuel line? Link? Better have all I need BEFORE I cut any lines. :icon_eek:

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Well, Honda is no help.

Anyone have OEM fuel lines they had to cut open to get the inside diameter of the line(s)?

Ah, someone at ST.N linked to a thread at the XX.com site.

pressure pipe is 14mm (9/16") OD 7mm ( 9/32") ID

return is 12mm (7/16") OD 6mm (7/32") ID

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I checked the shop manual. It says to take things apart in a given order with the supply line being next to last then putting a matching bolt in with the sealing washers and lock nut. Then remove the return line. I bought two bolts (12x25 p1.75 and 12x35 p1.75....manual called for 12x30, which they didn't carry), and I'll see how effective that is since I have to dismount the tank to cut the lines....which means draining the tank anyhow. If putting that bolt in holds the flow indefinitely, I won't bother, but if it lets gas leak out when disconnected, I gotta go with this idea.

I suppose not plugging the supply line caused the problem, but anyone else do this and can attest to how effectively it keeps gas in the tank?

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I checked the shop manual. It says to take things apart in a given order with the supply line being next to last then putting a matching bolt in with the sealing washers and lock nut. Then remove the return line. I bought two bolts (12x25 p1.75 and 12x35 p1.75....manual called for 12x30, which they didn't carry), and I'll see how effective that is since I have to dismount the tank to cut the lines....which means draining the tank anyhow. If putting that bolt in holds the flow indefinitely, I won't bother, but if it lets gas leak out when disconnected, I gotta go with this idea.

I suppose not plugging the supply line caused the problem, but anyone else do this and can attest to how effectively it keeps gas in the tank?

Well, the manual is dead wrong. First, I got the type of bolt it called for. The nut turned about 1/2 turn and stopped, not enough to keep the gas from pouring out, so I had to drain the tank (as I expected). Suppose I will be looking at those EZ disconnects on Monday. Measured the return line nipple and got 8/32" as an internal diameter. Here's some pics.

Oh, and £169.99 in USD is $271.00 +/- :icon_eek: That's too much for disconnectable fuel lines.

post-3006-1290286451.jpg

post-3006-1290286575.jpg

post-3006-1290286661.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
arcon,

You said you needed -10 lines, but that you suspect the stockers are -6. This means you are running modded lines and not OEM, right? I e-mailed Jiffy-Tite to get their recommendations as well.

Correct -- and those in you link look interesting too. Check out SummitRacing.com too.

Remember, it is fuel.. a liquid. Nothing major except it has to handle more PSI than a NA motor.

Well, SummitRacing says Jiffy-Tite is not compatible with rubber hose, only AN or NPT fittings. I'll ask Jiffy-Tite to confirm this.

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