Fuel line disconnect

[Zero Knievel]

Another thread made me wonder.

On the FI XX, is there a kit to convert both fuel lines so that you can cut off the fuel and disconnect the lines without the usual mess and hassle involved?

[partsman]

Another thread made me wonder.

On the FI XX, is there a kit to convert both fuel lines so that you can cut off the fuel and disconnect the lines without the usual mess and hassle involved?

There's pics on the other site.

[Zero Knievel]

I used these.

Very interesting. You have the part #s you used and what kind of coin was involved?

How much work to install (I presume both fuel lines must be cut and fitted).

[Zero Knievel]

I might go ahead with this idea.

I found this site - http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html

Those are for BMWs. When I contacted them, they said:

If your fuel line is 5/16" inside diameter (8X13mm metric) then that kit should work fine assuming you have enough room to install them. You'll need about 3 1/2" on free line in a place you can get at to connect and disconnect them. Hope this helps

Of course, I don't know the INNER diameter of the fuel lines and the Honda manual doesn't give specifics. Anyone know?

arcon,

You said you needed -10 lines, but that you suspect the stockers are -6. This means you are running modded lines and not OEM, right? I e-mailed Jiffy-Tite to get their recommendations as well.

[Zero Knievel]

Well, Honda is no help.

Anyone have OEM fuel lines they had to cut open to get the inside diameter of the line(s)?

[Zero Knievel]

arcon,

You said you needed -10 lines, but that you suspect the stockers are -6. This means you are running modded lines and not OEM, right? I e-mailed Jiffy-Tite to get their recommendations as well.

Correct -- and those in you link look interesting too. Check out SummitRacing.com too.

Remember, it is fuel.. a liquid. Nothing major except it has to handle more PSI than a NA motor.

Do you need a special tool to make these things go onto the fuel line? Link? Better have all I need BEFORE I cut any lines.

[Zero Knievel]

Well, Honda is no help.

Anyone have OEM fuel lines they had to cut open to get the inside diameter of the line(s)?

Ah, someone at ST.N linked to a thread at the XX.com site.

pressure pipe is 14mm (9/16") OD 7mm ( 9/32") ID

return is 12mm (7/16") OD 6mm (7/32") ID

[Zero Knievel]

I checked the shop manual. It says to take things apart in a given order with the supply line being next to last then putting a matching bolt in with the sealing washers and lock nut. Then remove the return line. I bought two bolts (12x25 p1.75 and 12x35 p1.75....manual called for 12x30, which they didn't carry), and I'll see how effective that is since I have to dismount the tank to cut the lines....which means draining the tank anyhow. If putting that bolt in holds the flow indefinitely, I won't bother, but if it lets gas leak out when disconnected, I gotta go with this idea.

I suppose not plugging the supply line caused the problem, but anyone else do this and can attest to how effectively it keeps gas in the tank?

[beestoys]

From a member on another board

http://www.gmaxxraceperformance.com/HEL-Pe...e-Products.html

[Zero Knievel]

I checked the shop manual. It says to take things apart in a given order with the supply line being next to last then putting a matching bolt in with the sealing washers and lock nut. Then remove the return line. I bought two bolts (12x25 p1.75 and 12x35 p1.75....manual called for 12x30, which they didn't carry), and I'll see how effective that is since I have to dismount the tank to cut the lines....which means draining the tank anyhow. If putting that bolt in holds the flow indefinitely, I won't bother, but if it lets gas leak out when disconnected, I gotta go with this idea.

I suppose not plugging the supply line caused the problem, but anyone else do this and can attest to how effectively it keeps gas in the tank?

Well, the manual is dead wrong. First, I got the type of bolt it called for. The nut turned about 1/2 turn and stopped, not enough to keep the gas from pouring out, so I had to drain the tank (as I expected). Suppose I will be looking at those EZ disconnects on Monday. Measured the return line nipple and got 8/32" as an internal diameter. Here's some pics.

Oh, and £169.99 in USD is $271.00 +/- That's too much for disconnectable fuel lines.

[Zero Knievel]

arcon,

You said you needed -10 lines, but that you suspect the stockers are -6. This means you are running modded lines and not OEM, right? I e-mailed Jiffy-Tite to get their recommendations as well.

Correct -- and those in you link look interesting too. Check out SummitRacing.com too.

Remember, it is fuel.. a liquid. Nothing major except it has to handle more PSI than a NA motor.

Well, SummitRacing says Jiffy-Tite is not compatible with rubber hose, only AN or NPT fittings. I'll ask Jiffy-Tite to confirm this.

[RXX]

Well, as sweet as the disconnect is, and it IS sweet, it started seeping gas today. Going to have to regroup.

 

[RXX]

OK, guys I am going to ask some pretty nitty-gritty questions and I am down to the wire. 
First off know that I am not criticizing the existing unit. It has been a real sweet deal. 

Mike, it appears that when you installed the device you cut the existing fuel line to attach to the disconnect. The seeping is occurring at the crimped part of the old hose and I do not believe there is any way to fix that. It has lasted what, 15 years and thousands of miles.

There is some stress on that part whenever the tank is raised or removed so I can understand it failing over time.

If I were to reproduce the setup I would need a new/used hose, which is unobtainable as far as I can tell.

If I could find the hose the simplest quickest thing to do would be to scrap the disconnect for now and go back to stock configuration. 
I am running out of time to dick around. 
If anyone here has a Hose, Fuel Feed  17527-MAT-D00 text me for my address (865) 567-5469 and I will give you CC number for fedex overnight.

My other option is to take my Triumph, which would raise the adventure to a whole new level. Naked street bike, 5,000 miles. Canada. Sheesh.

[CALCXX]

Phillip, a suggestion for you ---

 

You have 5 Hydraulic hose outfits in Knoxville.

No idea if they are certified DOT.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=DOT+Certified+Hose+repair+Knoxville+Tn.&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS975US975&oq=DOT+Certified+Hose+repair+Knoxville+Tn.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigATIHCAQQIRigATIHCAUQIRigATIHCAYQIRiPAjIHCAcQIRiPAtIBCjI3MjQ2ajBqMTWoAgiwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#sv=CAwS_AEKBmxjbF9wdhKQAQoEbXN0axKHAUFVdEV4ZkIyYkdiWUs4VjNsRUIxY0NTbExHZFlaaW5lS0VGR1RKRE9FOGhERW5ReVJyQnBTMHppcGhjTHFzVGh2NmQyckpEUV95NDE0RFNiQnRDcG05U3RKX0hONVk4enRYVGdNdEk3SDdFWkxUX2V1YVl1a3c5eEdrU2dTdE5sZ0x4amlTcxIsCgFxEidET1QgQ2VydGlmaWVkIEhvc2UgcmVwYWlyIEtub3h2aWxsZSBUbi4SHQoDcHZxEhZDZ3N2Wnk4eGRteHhjWGxpYTRBQkFRGhJsb2NhbC1wbGFjZS12aWV3ZXIYCiC3qsqpBA

 

Can you remove the bolt and swivel lock w/ the banjo fitting on the fuel rail?

Take the tank and the hose intact with the leaking crimp connector and banjo fitting intact

to a reputable ( DOT Approved ) Hyd Repair Shop? 

 

Replace the crimp connector using the original banjo connector? Have them replace the hose also. (as-per their recommendation.)

Might even want to lengthen the hose if you feel the need?

 

I had a DOT Approved Shop extend brake lines when installing Superbike bars on bikes locally.

No problems all these years.

 

You won't be able to fix or salvage those old crimps.

Have the shop replace any screw type hose clamps in that line also.

They can do it with certification or know someone who can do fuel lines.

They probably have new crush washers also?

edit: Phillip, I see a "Mobile Repair" available also.

Edited August 21 by CALCXX

[rockmeupto125]

I suspect I have one. 

 

But I suggest that removing the crimp and shoving a regular high pressure/FI hose on there with some high pressure clamps would work just fine.  They only run 50 psi.

[CALCXX]

True.

Hyd hoses are rated much higher. 

Pretty sure any DOT shop can handle it.

[Zero Knievel]

3 hours ago, RXX said:

Mike, it appears that when you installed the device you cut the existing fuel line to attach to the disconnect. The seeping is occurring at the crimped part of the old hose and I do not believe there is any way to fix that. It has lasted what, 15 years and thousands of miles.

There is some stress on that part whenever the tank is raised or removed so I can understand it failing over time.

Well, if I was going to raise or remove the tank, I would disconnect the fuel line…just to not have to put the strain on the hose…which would be an issue even with the unmodified hose.

 

Given the heat of the motor and age of the bike, the seepage isn’t surprising.

 

1 hour ago, CALCXX said:

Can you remove the bolt and swivel lock w/ the banjo fitting on the fuel rail?

Take the tank and the hose intact with the leaking crimp connector and banjo fitting intact

to a reputable ( DOT Approved ) Hyd Repair Shop? 

 

Replace the crimp connector using the original banjo connector? Have them replace the hose also. (as-per their recommendation.)

Might even want to lengthen the hose if you feel the need?

 

This gets my vote.  Never had to do it myself, but my dad had times he had to fix something and no replacement parts were available, so he had to go to a shop that could custom make stuff in house.

 

The whole point for the quick connects is that there is no fuel shutoff for the tank, so every removal necessitates draining the tank of gas…which was a non option for me as trying to do work from the top with the tank propped up was beyond frustrating.

Edited August 21 by Zero Knievel

[Zero Knievel]

Also, don’t you have another ‘99 XX?  Is that fuel line also compromised?  You could just swap parts and plug the holes on the fuel rail and tank.

[rockmeupto125]

Anybody in their garage can handle it. Smooth band fuel injection clamps are good for 90psi

[poida]

i had the fuel hose on my 99 replaced many years ago by a hose shop.they just fit the new hose onto the old fittings

 

[CALCXX]

Up to you Phillip.

Certified DOT shop near you could handle this easily.

Fresh start, peace of mind for the long term.

Edited August 21 by CALCXX

[tomek]

3 hours ago, poida said:

i had the fuel hose on my 99 replaced many years ago by a hose shop.they just fit the new hose onto the old fittings

 

I've used old fittings. Removed old hose, cleaned fittings, appropriate ID fuel hose, safety wired couple screw clamps so they wouldn't get lose. Boom.!!! Done. 

 

[SwampNut]

7 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said:

I suspect I have one. 

 

But I suggest that removing the crimp and shoving a regular high pressure/FI hose on there with some high pressure clamps would work just fine.  They only run 50 psi.

 

This is the perfect place for the single ear crimp clamps I've posted about before, and agree with Joe.  Particularly when used like this, which has held 125 PSI just fine.  Not rocket surgery.

 

 

 

 

I wonder what silicone rescue tape could do.  Not on a 5k trip though.

 

[RXX]

On 8/21/2026 at 4:08 AM, rockmeupto125 said:

I suspect I have one. 

 

But I suggest that removing the crimp and shoving a regular high pressure/FI hose on there with some high pressure clamps would work just fine.  They only run 50 psi.

 

This.

 

 

cut the crimp off

 

 

get down to brass tacks. Cleaned this up, went to hose store and got hoses and clamps,

 reinstalled. No leaks. No final pictures, I got interrupted and had to install a new carb on the bike for the nexxt generation of nut jobs.

 

[tomek]

 That's the way to do it 👍 or how I dealt with that problem as well.😀 

 

 My goal is, always, anti German Engineering solutions. Simplest, quickest way of fixing things, not the other way around. I have better things to do in my life vs. spending long hrs fixing simple problems. 

Edited August 22 by tomek