RXX Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I am installing new HBC double e pads on the rear of the bike. I cannot figure out how to get the inner pad to work. First off, the pistons are fully depressed. The outer pad has plenty of room between it and the rotor. The axle spacer is correct. The pads are identical to the old pads with the exception of the material thickness. I can fit the old pad in. The pad is simply too thick for the rotor to go in. There is a cutaway in the caliper at the front for the rotor, and the pad is thicker than the cutaway. The rotor will not clear the space without serious effort. Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Philip, your caliper has to float left and right. If there is space between the outer pad and the rotor, it has to float inward, and by doing so, your inner pad should fit. If its not floating, something is binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 What Joe said. Pull the pins, hit 'em with some fine steel wool and silicone grease and put them back in. I do (did) this every time I changed the pads. If that sounds like too much work, give the caliper a whack with a mallet, it'll move in and give you the room you need for the interior pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Are the pistons actually fully depressed? I have seen tech's use an old worn out pad on top of the new inner pad and then use a large screwdriver to pry on the old pad to force the new pad further back. That way no damage to the new pad surface with pry marks. Then remove the old pad and insert the new outside pad. If that makes any sense! My guess is that the inner pad is not fully depressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 What Joe said makes sense, but it is too late tonight for me to check it out. I haven't dicked around with calipers since replacing my MINI's about 60k ago. I looked at the shop manual and refreshed my memory. I will probably just tap it with a nylon mallet and brake cleaner since I am getting short on time. John, pistons are depressed. The inner pad does not sit on the pistons, but it is flush against the stays. I really, really appreciate your help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Make sure you line up the little brass clip also when you get it to slide over the rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Did you try removing the rear wheel? I think I've only replaced the rear pads once on a Bird. Don't use it much. I'm sure I had the rear wheel off as well. Can the pads be changed with the caliper still over the disc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Yes, the pads can be changed with wheel still on if the caliper pins aren't boogered up. You guys rock. The pins were just all gunked up and pretty corroded. I got my dremel with soft wire and cleaned them up, put caliper grease on them and voila! I guess it it time for new pins and boots all around this winter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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