rockmeupto125 Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 This is probably why my mower cuts out a lot. One bolt holding the coil in place. Looks as though a previous owner had attempted a fix and it didn't work. One light tap with a hammer separated the epoxied half of the threads. So........magic weld in a tube? Drill and tap another quarter inch and hope it holds...or doesn't break into the case? Or bag it and do the new mower thing. I hate to throw away a not-so-perfect Honda of any sort.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Can't really tell from the pics - any mounting alternatives? Remote? Squeeze a whole tube of Goop on the coil, stick it on there? If you're already looking at possibly replacing it, what can it hurt to drill further? Epoxy the bottom of the threads to seal the crankcase! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Looks like I would JB weld and once it has set up for a day, drill a little deeper, tap it and put a little longer screw into it. Like Mike said, hard to tell from the photo. Replace whatever washer is on the current patent screw with one of those grabby type washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Why not give the JB a shot? Load a ton of it on there and tap a fresh hole. And clean the rust off your coil,that could be part of your cutting out problem too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 I was hoping for a recommendation for something much stronger than JB, which has never worked well for me. Because the coil has to positioned a set distance away from the flywheel, this has to be fastened pretty tight. And the broken mount is the adjustment side, where the coil has an elongated hole for that purpose. That means the coil is held in position not by the physical boundary of the bolt, but by the friction of the tightened bolt, placing more stress on the system. Probably why the under-engineered mount failed in the first place. <sigh> I'll study it some more this morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrideCX Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Do you know anyone locally that can weld aluminum? Have it welded and it will be good as new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Sure, there's a guy close by that does any frame work I need done. By the time I cart it up there, wait around, and pay him $30 to put a blob of aluminum on there, drill it, tap it, and see if it the weld did any damage, I could have just had you come up here and take care of it. I'm going on a search for some high end epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Fuck it, thru bolt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Fuck it, thru bolt it. Jeepers, man....this is fine equipment. Its not like its a, um, ahhh.....kawasaki fork or sumthin'.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Which Honda mower we talking about here anyway? You just may be polishing a turd anyway.I know the motor may last forever but some of the older models are a bitch to get cables/wheels and shit for anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Fuck it, thru bolt it. Jeepers, man....this is fine equipment. Its not like its a, um, ahhh.....kawasaki fork or a KTM.... FTFY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 If it was me, i'd have a guy weld it. But the other option is to drill deeper. Retap. Clean up the surrounding areas with brake cleaner. Let it try off. Epoxy the part the brok off, bolt and radiator clamp the whole POS together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RTGwalt Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 It looks like you only have a quarter inch of additional metal before you've drilled through to the other side. I like the hose clamp idea. Clamp the broken piece back onto the post, then put a threaded rod in, cement it in place and pray it holds as you gingerly thread the nut from the top. Let me know what model engine it is and I'll see if I have a good block for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 I like the hose clamp idea. Clamp the broken piece back onto the post, then put a threaded rod in, cement it in place and pray it holds as you gingerly thread the nut from the top. Let me know what model engine it is and I'll see if I have a good block for you. That's the ticket. Maximized surface area will yield the strongest repair. Brilliant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Something like what Walt said. I took a bolt, cut the head off, and tapped it into the hole I drilled out from the previous mess. I made a dam out of parchment paper and zipties, Then filled it with Devcon Plastic Steel. Mowed the lawn yesterday. Thanks for the offer, Walt, but I might get through another year without buying a mower. WooHoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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