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Silly Question Number 1


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Ok, I'm gonna be in the Market for a second bike soon and I've got it boiled down to a make and model>>>> the CBR1100XX.

From what I've read I need to be careful about stator troubles.....How PO's tried to manage the heat and look for signs its been overheated a few times too many....

Other then that its simple basis Motorcycle schtuff.

Is there a particular year model to avoid?.....One that shines???? Carb or FI??

Yeah, I know.....Its a Honda.....Take it for a ride and if it will put the front tire in the air in first and second on WOT, go 0 to 100 then back down to 25 without a wobble or strange noises and theres no geysers when ya park it buy it.......(thats what I tell people on the ST site)

Was just wondering if the model had any lemons....

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I had a 97 and have a 05. Carb had a bit nor power, but the F1 have faster respond on the throttle.

Feels a bit more aggressive. Other than that no difference.

Silverbirds are the fastes :icon_evilgrin:

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I like the FI versions because if you want to mod the performance, it's a simple upload (once you buy and install a Power Commander). Carbs are a lot more work, and I don't think I'd ever go back unless the bike I want to get only comes that way.

Your bigger concern is the R/R, and the tool-strap... :icon_whistle:

Mileage might vary, but (and not to jinx myself) my stator has been rock-solid. If your R/R fails, it can damage the stator, but unless you have burnt wires going to the stator or the multimeter test of it shows something's amiss, you may never have a problem with it.

Maybe it's me, but many components are not prone to fail unless defectively made...they generally don't wear out in the normal lifetime of the vehicle. I'd fully expect a stator to last over 100K on a motorcycle that's made well. Still, I know not everyone has that experience.

If the bike you're getting doesn't have one already installed, a good first mod is to put on a Datel voltmeter. At a glance you will know if your charging system is working properly, and it pays for itself the first time you realize you have an over-/under-charge problem or a failing battery. The best way to preserve the stator is to avoid running the bike with a bad battery or R/R, and nothing on the bike warns you about these components failing until long after it's been a problem.

I just replaced my old R/R, and while my voltmeter showed it running a tad on the high side, I don't know if that was from the R/R connector being in bad shape (corrosion/arcing...solved by hard-wiring in the new one) or if the old R/R was actually failing/failed. Since I picked up a new one a year or so earlier, I decided not to risk it and just did the work to change it out.

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Ok, I'm gonna be in the Market for a second bike soon and I've got it boiled down to a make and model>>>> the CBR1100XX.

From what I've read I need to be careful about stator troubles.....How PO's tried to manage the heat and look for signs its been overheated a few times too many....

Other then that its simple basis Motorcycle schtuff.

Is there a particular year model to avoid?.....One that shines???? Carb or FI??

Yeah, I know.....Its a Honda.....Take it for a ride and if it will put the front tire in the air in first and second on WOT, go 0 to 100 then back down to 25 without a wobble or strange noises and theres no geysers when ya park it buy it.......(thats what I tell people on the ST site)

Was just wondering if the model had any lemons....

No.

I've had a '97, a '00, and a '02. Never had any real issues with any of them. Did have a leaky water pump once but nothing that left me stranded. Sure you can watch the RR connection if you want, but you'll get bored waiting for something to happen.

I loved my carbed version but the FI is smoother and like someone said changing performance is a simple matter.

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I think the main reason for the connector at the R/R to fail is corrosion. That is what mine did. It is a part that is tucked away a bit and not part of usual maintenance. A little corrosion increases resistance and overheats it.

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I have a 97 with 60+k on the clock. At about 50k the stator went on my way home from WV. I pulled the light fuses and rode it home 350miles. :icon_whistle:

As far as power and smoothness a few minor mods and my bike is as smooth as glass and will pull the front up in 3rd gear if I let it.

A few mods to the suspension and she handles like my 600 .... Well almost. :icon_biggrin:

As for the electrical issues mentioned go over all the connections and add a little dielectric grease to each and your golden.

The volt meter is a huge + saved my ass.

Watch your wheel bearings at about 35-40k miles

Other then that just general maintenance is all they need.

Oh the cct if you hear stones in a can sound change it or rewind the spring. :icon_evilgrin:

Good luck

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I LOVE my carb'ed 98, and I loved my previous 97. I've ridden a few FI bikes and I don't like the throttle response as much as carb motors -

But, what I want to know is why everyone else's bike wants to wheelie, but mine doesn't? Are you guys talking about clutching the front wheel up, or a roll on wheelie? I can clutch mine up, but it definately does not roll-on wheelie. My old ZRXs and Z1000 would easily loft the wheel just by snapping the throttle... :icon_rolleyes:

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Roll wheelies in first, bounce up in 2nd, or turn on the nitrous and spray up 4th at 100. Not that I would know anything about that :icon_twisted:

As far as which one to get, I have gone FI and will never go back. Motor fires every time, regardless of weather or altitude.

Wheel bearings, steering stem bearings, voltage regulator, and the wire loom fix on the early FI bikes are your biggies. Steering stem bearings are the biggest PITA, but you do it once with the tapered bearings and you never have to worry about it again. Same thing with the wire loom fix. Switch the regulator out with the R1 and you're done with that. Unfortunately for me, front wheel bearings need to be kept in stock.

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I LOVE my carb'ed 98, and I loved my previous 97. I've ridden a few FI bikes and I don't like the throttle response as much as carb motors -

But, what I want to know is why everyone else's bike wants to wheelie, but mine doesn't? Are you guys talking about clutching the front wheel up, or a roll on wheelie? I can clutch mine up, but it definately does not roll-on wheelie. My old ZRXs and Z1000 would easily loft the wheel just by snapping the throttle... :icon_rolleyes:

Humm....even my slow old mans bike will torque it out in the first two.....

Might need a tuneout.

Thankyou all for your replies.....it makes things easier for me. I'll look for a FI bike if I can find it or buy a good carb model if it happens to cross paths with me on the same day as the cash!

PS. The FASTEST color in an ST is RED!

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I LOVE my carb'ed 98, and I loved my previous 97. I've ridden a few FI bikes and I don't like the throttle response as much as carb motors -

But, what I want to know is why everyone else's bike wants to wheelie, but mine doesn't? Are you guys talking about clutching the front wheel up, or a roll on wheelie? I can clutch mine up, but it definately does not roll-on wheelie. My old ZRXs and Z1000 would easily loft the wheel just by snapping the throttle... :icon_rolleyes:

Because your 7' tall and weigh 600lbs. :icon_twisted:

Maybe you are leaning too far forward on the tank. Try sitting back more with very little weight on the bars.

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As far as FI/carbed, I have never, ever had a problem with mine (60K+ miles). I have never ridden a carbed bike, so no comparison. I think I just counted 54 pages in the '99 manual devoted to FI and a LOT of those were troubleshooting guides. I have done all of the fixes mentioned above (I think) and did them myself. I am not a mechanic, and not even a good tinker, but the bike has forgiven every transgression I have inflicted on her.

I have butchered and mangled and frankenstein'd the electrical system with farkles way beyond what should be prudent, but no electrical issues other than the stator after 55K miles.

The BB is a GREAT FUCKING BIKE!!

I am sooooo tempted to buy one of the uber-clean bikes for sale here. What great deals.

Have you ridden one? Probably going to be a few up in Robbinsville, NC this weekend at the bacon Run. Not far at all from you. RedneXXt in Corydon IN (Just across the river from Louisville) is in a couple of weeks. Many birds will be there.

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The XX is a great bike. The BLACK ones are the fastest and also the best looking although this is a bike that looks great in all colors. I like the FI models myself. The bike is pretty reliable. CCT's are probably the most common failure but easily resolved. R&R and stators are probably next. I say look for a real clean BLACK one and you should be all set.

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The XX is a great bike. The BLACK ones are the fastest and also the best looking although this is a bike that looks great in all colors. I like the FI models myself. The bike is pretty reliable. CCT's are probably the most common failure but easily resolved. R&R and stators are probably next. I say look for a real clean BLACK one and you should be all set.

CCT must be mostley a US problem :icon_whistle:

This is my third XX, and no problem.

And I'm not deaf :icon_evilgrin:

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Mine was a 99. From my experience, 99-00 share similar problems with wiring harness dummy plugs crapping out. I spent a lot of time chasing foggy grounds and having my FI light wink at me from time to time. I did spend a lot of time riding in a lot of rain, so that probably contributed to it. Other than that, no issues other than a R/R at ~45K.

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The XX is a great bike. The BLACK ones are the fastest and also the best looking although this is a bike that looks great in all colors. I like the FI models myself. The bike is pretty reliable. CCT's are probably the most common failure but easily resolved. R&R and stators are probably next. I say look for a real clean BLACK one and you should be all set.

CCT must be mostley a US problem :icon_whistle:

This is my third XX, and no problem.

And I'm not deaf :icon_evilgrin:

I don't believe that it is only a US problem. As far as I know there are no differences in the CCT's. I see mentions of it throughout the world.

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The XX is a great bike. The BLACK ones are the fastest and also the best looking although this is a bike that looks great in all colors. I like the FI models myself. The bike is pretty reliable. CCT's are probably the most common failure but easily resolved. R&R and stators are probably next. I say look for a real clean BLACK one and you should be all set.

CCT must be mostley a US problem :icon_whistle:

This is my third XX, and no problem.

And I'm not deaf :icon_evilgrin:

I don't believe that it is only a US problem. As far as I know there are no differences in the CCT's. I see mentions of it throughout the world.

I know, maybe I've been lucky.

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you guys are slipping...

your tool pouch rubber band will fail on you. Will need giant O-ring to fix or small bungee cord...

My XX has no problem bringing the front wheel up in 2nd, and give me some cool crisp winter air and will show you 3rd gear all throttle wheelie. :icon_biggrin:

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