Removing Parts for Checking Valve Clearances

[blkbrdrydr]

I'm going to tackle the only job on my bike that I've never done myself and check my valve clearances.

Years ago, Carlos did a write up on changing spark plugs and showed how to flip up the fuel tank and lay the back of the tank on the towel/padding that you put over the battery in order to gain more than enough clearance to remove the air cleaner assembly.

I've used his method for 10 years and have never needed to figure out how to remove the tank from the motorcycle.

Since that trick provides more then enough room to remover the air cleaner... will it also provide me with all the room needed to check my valve clearances?

Will I have to remove the oil cooler and move the radiator in order to get the valve cover back on from the front or can it go in from the back?

[Redbird]

The tank doesn't have to be removed, but I'd recommend it. I pulled the radiator as well, though it wasn't "necessary". I'm from the school of thought that would rather spend a little extra disassembly/assembly time than wrestle with tools in cramped spaces. If nothing else I'd say maybe check them with the tank/radiator in place. If they need adjustment, get all that crap out of your way.

http://www.pbase.com/redbird1137/valve_ajustment

[blkbrdrydr]

The tank doesn't have to be removed, but I'd recommend it. I pulled the radiator as well, though it wasn't "necessary". I'm from the school of though that would rather spend a little extra disassembly/assembly time than wrestle with tools in cramped spaces. If nothing else I'd say maybe check them with the tank/radiator in place. If they need adjustment, get all that crap out of your way.

http://www.pbase.com/redbird1137/valve_ajustment

Thanks Tim

If the clearances are okay, will I be able to get the valve cover reinstalled without removing the radiator?

I can get the fuel tank off my FJR1300 with minimal effort. Since the XX doesn't have a fuel line with a quick-disconnect, I suspect that it's a lot more complicated procedure. Guess that's why I've never removed the tank over the last 11 years.

[Redbird]

Thanks Tim

If the clearances are okay, will I be able to get the valve cover reinstalled without removing the radiator?

I went in from the top, so you should be fine. The biggest pain is keeping the gasket aligned, that's where the increased access came in handy.

[Zero Knievel]

When I did mine....

1. Removed the gas tank (now have quick disconnects to make life easier).

2. Remove the air cleaner. Maybe a couple other parts as well to have easier access.

3. Got the cover off through the top, but ultimately had to dismount the radiator and fan (didn't drain...just unhooked so it'd fall forward) to get the cover in through the top. Getting it to go back on without the gasket being pulled off during the process was a royal pain in the ass.

4. Of all my valves, one was just on the edge of maybe needing a replacement shim, but that meant dismounting the motor and I wasn't going to do that for something just on the edge of being in spec. The rest were good.

[Redbird]

Dismounting the motor to adjust the valves? Ummm, no.

See the link I posted above.

[partsman]

I had to use a thin ,repeat THIN bead of silicone to hold the gasket in place around the spark plugs.Went in from the front just because,can't remember if I even tried the other way.It was tight but went first try after the silicone applied.

[Zero Knievel]

Dismounting the motor to adjust the valves? Ummm, no.

See the link I posted above.

Interesting. How do you get the cam shafts out? The diagrams I saw made it look like they had to come out in a way that I couldn't do with the frame in the way.

[Redbird]

The camshafts lift straight out, zero interference with the frame or anything else.

If you got the cover out of that space, how do you figure the much smaller camshafts are going to be an issue?

[Zero Knievel]

The camshafts lift straight out, zero interference with the frame or anything else.

If you got the cover out of that space, how do you figure the much smaller camshafts are going to be an issue?

I couldn't see how to move them clear of the cam chain without moving them sideways.

[blkbrdrydr]

I flipped up the fuel tank and rested the back of the tank on the towel/padding that I put over the battery and had all the clearance that I would have had if I'd completely removed the tank.

I drained the radiator because I was planning on changing the coolant anyway. Once it was empty, I dropped it, and the oil cooler down so that I could get that little wind tray out of the way. I suppose that it would be possible to get the valve cover off without removing that tray but I didn't bother trying to do it. It was just easier for me to remove the thing.

I took the two bolts out of the bracket that holds the throttle cables and that also gave me all the room that I needed to lift the valve cover and to reinstall it when I was finished checking the clearances.

After 61,903 miles, every valve was within specs except for one of the intake valves on Cylinder #4. That one is a .004" and I'm sure as hell not pulling the camshafts to shim an intake that's just a tiny bit tight.

The gasket stayed perfectly attached to the valve cover so there was no drama reinstalling it. WHEW!

To make sure that I got as much junk off of the valves and had them as clean as possible before checking the clearances, I injected a can of Sea Foam directly into the four Vacuum Joint Screws by replacing them with 5mm brass tubes that came with my old Motion Pro - SyncPRO Carb Tuner.

When I give a Sea Foam enema to the FJR1300, the engine will die after sucking about 1/2 of the can. The Blackbird drank the entire can and never died. However, after shutting off the bike and letting it sit for about 15 minutes, the smoke was absolutely unbelievable. I called the local fire department and told them what I was going to be doing in the event that anyone in the neighborhood called 911 to report that a house was on fire.

While the 5mm brass adapters are connected to the motor, I may do the Throttle Body/Starter Valve Synchronization to be sure that all four cylinders have similar intake vacuum pressure and are fairly well-matched to the #3 cylinder.

It's funny that Yamaha has Throttle Body Synchronization as a regular maintenance item and Honda doesn't.

[Zero Knievel]

After 61,903 miles, every valve was within specs except for one of the intake valves on Cylinder #4. That one is a .004" and I'm sure as hell not pulling the camshafts to shim an intake that's just a tiny bit tight.

I had one that was just slightly loose (test tool went in and out a bit too easy). How far out of spec does one feel something needs to be to justify the work to get at it to replace the faulty shim?

[Redbird]

After 61,903 miles, every valve was within specs except for one of the intake valves on Cylinder #4. That one is a .004" and I'm sure as hell not pulling the camshafts to shim an intake that's just a tiny bit tight.

I had one that was just slightly loose (test tool went in and out a bit too easy). How far out of spec does one feel something needs to be to justify the work to get at it to replace the faulty shim?

Out of spec is out of spec, that's what the numbers are for. After that it's all a matter of opinion, and opinions are kinda pointless when you already have hard numbers from the guys that designed the motor.

[GimPin]

is there a write up on how to check these specs ... sorry I do not have a factory service manual ... I reviewed the link above with the pics but there are no instructions

[tomek]

First of all , I don`t know absolutely anything about internal combustion engines .

Tight valve - you have to take care of that , some nasty long term unpleasant things can happen .

Slightly loose valve , like by 0.02-0.03 mm . If you don`t feel like removing cams you could let it go unless it is a race motor or you are in upper 1/3 of the rev range all the time .

Of course engines run better if all clearances are equal or are as close as possible .