Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Electrical help needed...


Zero Knievel

Recommended Posts

I've lost my head lamps and turn signals aren't working properly. I can't find the "why" for any of this.

My fuses are okay, and the head lamps are not on the same circuit as the turn signals.

Tail and stop lights work. Observation shows my rear turn signals flash. My front turn signals are lit, but when engaged, they barely flash and my flasher goes CLICK CLICK CLICK faster than normal.

Both low and high beam (HID) flicker when engaged but will not ignite.

I don't know when this started today exactly. There was a moment where I pulled over and stopped but changed my mind. When I went to turn the bike back on, the speedometer went from 0 to max and back to 0 like the new bikes do (but the XX does not). Later, on the highway, I noticed my turn signals were not working (dash indicators didn't flash). However, there was moment when I went to use the turn signal (habit) and it worked normally. I tried turning on my high beam and it went back to not working.

Got back to the hotel. Took apart the switch cluster on the left side...where the high/low and turn signal switches are. I figured that was where the problem was, but I see nothing wrong. Sprayed some WD-40...put in some dielectric grease, but nothing helped. Took off the windscreen and a couple of panels to get a better look behind and around the instrument cluster, but I can't find any loose or shorted wires.

I'm clueless as to where the fault is or what caused it. What buggers me is that there is that the headlamp and turn signals are separate circuits. I'd think a short would blow the fuses. This appears to be more of the circuit(s) grounding out, but again, I see no sign of an exposed wire...of course to be certain, I'd have to tear down the front end and get the front cowling off...something I do not want to attempt while on vacation. :icon_mad:

HELP!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you checked your main ground connection by the tank?

Battery voltage? Off and running?

I can double-check, but all the other electrics work fine (that I can tell). My voltmeter is reading within spec. A couple tenths of a volt lower than normal, but I think that's because it's not compensating for the lamps being on (14.4v).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is a multimeter or at least check light ( bulb ) with some wires available to you ? If not go get one , seriously . the cheapest ones are about 20 bucks .

Looking at wiring diagram , front turn signals and headlights share grounds , it is a green wire in front connector , IIRC nose piece has to be removed . It also appears grounds from the dash go to that wire also .

I would check for contiguity between that ground wire and battery .

I`ve had problem with that ground wire at the front multiconnector , the pins were corroded . You could perform emergency bypass , just need some wire and electrical tape .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shit, man, it's been five years for me and I don't have a manual anymore...hopefully someone who's got more recent experience will chime in soon. I'd post a link in the pub if I were you, more traffic there and I promise you won't get in trouble for cross posting ;)

Sorry, duh, Tom's got you covered....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at wiring diagram , front turn signals and headlights share grounds , it is a green wire in front connector , IIRC nose piece has to be removed . It also appears grounds from the dash go to that wire also .

I was afraid of that. If I have to remove the front cowl to try and fix this, I won't likely do it on the road. I have no sheltered space to work in and I'd hate to get things in pieces and run into a problem. :icon_sad:

BTW, I have my shop manual with me, so I do have the wiring schematic if I need it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldnt attempt this in the rain for sure. If you can find a spot to pull the cowl off, checking and fixing grounds is really not that big a deal. Of course, only worth attempting if youve had the cowling off within the last couple years. If not.....drink a few more beers, if you remember the issue, drink a few more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at wiring diagram , front turn signals and headlights share grounds , it is a green wire in front connector , IIRC nose piece has to be removed . It also appears grounds from the dash go to that wire also .

I was afraid of that. If I have to remove the front cowl to try and fix this, I won't likely do it on the road. I have no sheltered space to work in and I'd hate to get things in pieces and run into a problem. :icon_sad:

BTW, I have my shop manual with me, so I do have the wiring schematic if I need it.

Well , ground level room at the motel ? I`ve seen pictures of bikes next to the queen sized beds . :icon_whistle:

Like I said before , go to Walmart and get multimeter , some bulk wire and electric tape .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem semi-solved.

One guy (electrical engineer) suggested just running a new hot and ground wire to switched power so one of my headlights works until I get home and have time to properly tear it down and find the problem. Less than $10 in parts from the hardware store.

Such a simple idea. So, tomorrow I'll get some wire and adapters and run the bottom lamp to my Fuzeblock to tide me over for the rest of the trip. People say my rear signals are working enough to be seen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure he was a real engineer? "Simple idea" is something I've never heard from the mouth of an engineer. I'm glad you got in a temporary fix to get you home.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure he was a real engineer? "Simple idea" is something I've never heard from the mouth of an engineer. I'm glad you got in a temporary fix to get you home.

Well, he did see it from a different perspective. Because getting to the cause of the problem was a lot of work and I was looking at ending my vacation because I didn't need to get ticketed for a non-working headlamp, we started talking about other headlight options (sticking one one), and the guy commented about "if you could just wire one bulb right to the battery....

:icon_think: :icon_eek: :icon_doh: :icon_clap:

Then I realized that the HIDs use blade connectors right into the stock OEM plugs. Two lengths of wires with female blade connectors to my FuzeBlock switched power would give me one working headlamp again.

I was thinking of "fixing" the problem. He was thinking of "patching" the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where are you ???

...

I'm still leary of your current solution. Let's just hope that problem isn't a short.......... and now that you have run extra power to those wires....well.... maybe you'll be the next one forwarding pictures to Swampnuts phone. :icon_eek:

Maybe look at it this way.

So you lose a day of riding in Co., properly fixing your bike, big deal, at least the whole trip won't be a loss, and it'll give you something to come back and see next time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where are you ???

...

I'm still leary of your current solution. Let's just hope that problem isn't a short.......... and now that you have run extra power to those wires....well.... maybe you'll be the next one forwarding pictures to Swampnuts phone. :icon_eek:

Maybe look at it this way.

So you lose a day of riding in Co., properly fixing your bike, big deal, at least the whole trip won't be a loss, and it'll give you something to come back and see next time.

In Custer, SD.

With the proposed idea, I need a 10A (IIRC) micro fuse. I planned to take the headlamp fuse from the block and use it on the FuzeBlock. That should power down the headlamp circuit....correct?

I'm still debating finishing the trip or just heading home. If I have to spend an extra day, I'm forced to cancel ALL my reservations because it fucks my schedule, and I might as well go home because at this point I'm only going to find places charging much higher rates than I managed to get a couple months ago.

There is NO WAY I'm going to be able to "properly fix" the bike unless I luck out and find the problem is insanely simple to remedy and the work involved in getting the bike torn down to that stage just puts me off...even when I'm working in a garage. I have to have time to work on stuff because once I get annoyed, I start making mistakes...so the only smart think is to walk away until I calm down and can focus. Last thing I want to do is make things worse if I run into headaches trying to fix the problem.

I might tear the front end down today...maybe not. I'm still muddling over if I want to risk it. Once it's apart, I have no means to go to town for parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Puting a fuse in might help, and yes you might be able to finish like that .... well, That's for you to decide.

Or... you could ride down to my house...today... and we could look it over in my garage tonight.

As for the room reservations... I doubt you'll be out that much more, if any, most hotel / motels don't give you a break this time a year wether you planned ahead or not.

...

PM to follow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike... has your loom fix been done?

This is EXACTLY what my bike was doing when my loom got corroded. You can fix it with some solder, iron and wire strippers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rewiring the headlamp temporarily will work, just remember a couple things.

1: headlamps use a lot of amperage, so run it thru a relay or make sure the temp switch can handle the load.

2: Unhook the stock wiring from the lamp, just so's you dont back feed a poorly isolated or grounded circuit.

Or! Ride during the day, and tape on a flashlight? :icon_surprised:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. No. I've not done the wire loom fix. I doubt that's the problem as the bike has always been garage kept. Usually, as I hear, those who have it cause problems have their bikes exposed to the elements more often than others.

2. Weirdness. I accidentally used my turn signal (was using hand signals), and the lamp worked 100% normal. Both sides. When I stopped for the day in Colorado, I put the fuse from the Fuzeblock to the fuse block for the headlamps and the low beam worked fine. So, I just unplugged my field repair and plugged back in the high beam. It's all working fine now. I pushed the end wires out of the way...just in case I need them later, but it's all normal now. :icon_think:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you check it out some more----look in the throttle housing where the starter switch cuts the power to the headlight when cranking. That caused me the problem you are describing. I just soldered it back in place, added a little silicone to seal it and dampen vibration---no more problems. Best wishes & happy trails, kel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you check it out some more----look in the throttle housing where the starter switch cuts the power to the headlight when cranking. That caused me the problem you are describing. I just soldered it back in place, added a little silicone to seal it and dampen vibration---no more problems. Best wishes & happy trails, kel

Bottom half of the switch, blue/white wire...

Yup, me too...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you check it out some more----look in the throttle housing where the starter switch cuts the power to the headlight when cranking. That caused me the problem you are describing. I just soldered it back in place, added a little silicone to seal it and dampen vibration---no more problems. Best wishes & happy trails, kel

Was it a loose wire or something like water intrusion? I did have that side open before the trip (at WVXXT) when we inspected why my throttle stopped working (glue on throttle grip came loose).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you check it out some more----look in the throttle housing where the starter switch cuts the power to the headlight when cranking. That caused me the problem you are describing. I just soldered it back in place, added a little silicone to seal it and dampen vibration---no more problems. Best wishes & happy trails, kel

Was it a loose wire or something like water intrusion? I did have that side open before the trip (at WVXXT) when we inspected why my throttle stopped working (glue on throttle grip came loose).

Mine was a loose wire...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use