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1mm longer spark plugs = 1-2 bhp gain?....


knight

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I have just been on mototunes website and read an interesting article where they have fitted spark plags that are 1mm longer than the stock plugs, and due to the extra reach into the combustion chamber it raises the compression ratio by a nats cock....... and results in a power increase of around 1-2 Bhp......although the plugs need changing/cleaning every 3 races, otherwise the exposed threads in the combustion chamber fill with :grin: carbon and rip the shit out of the head threads when removed!.......has anyone tried this mod and gained anything?......would be interesting to know!

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If you shit before you go ride you'll gain more than 2 HP. At least I do. Every 7 pounds is 1 HP.

Seriously, why risk anything at all, even if it's slight, for a change that is completely impossible to notice and is less than the variations from just temp, altitude, humidity, etc.

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I would imagine that street driving will add more carbon to the exposed threads than you would get on a race track. Are you willing to pull your plugs and clean the carbon from them every week? I pay a premium for irridium plugs---not for any power gains, just so I don't have to change them any more than once a year.

I'd go for the "take a shit before you ride" method.

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I'm of the school of thought that a lot of little ones make one big one :wink: - so far I have converted the carbs to ram-air, dyno-jetted them, replaced the water pump with an electric item, using special thin shell race oil (5W-20), full race stainles exhaust..... and if it works do the longer spark plug thing......reason being my engine is installed in a race car, and the rules forbid internal mods......I'm pushing for 150Bhp at the rear wheel without internal motor modification, and the spark plug thing will certainly help the cause!!!!!......but like you say, so will having a dump! :grin: .........thanks for the tip!

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yes the cam timing is of great interest to me, I have heard of it before but I dont know specific settings to set the cams to?.....do you know what they are?......4-6bhp yes please!!!!!.....as for the PAIR mod - this is the link to the crank case vent mod......yes I am in the process of doing this.....problem is that the UK spec bikes dont have the PAIR reed valve assys in the cam cover......so I'm looking at fitting a US spec cam cover or head depending what i get hold of......as for crank polishing, light flywheels, nope - not allowed, and those mods only improve engine response - not max bhp!!!!.....as for a light chain.....I need the best 530 chain available to man kind .....I just bought an expensive heavy duty Gold item.......as my race car and me weigh 460Kg!!!!!!......no place for girl chains

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Which brings up an interesting question.. I'm running platinum

plugs in my '97 (recommended), but I see that newer models

run iridium eh?

Seems to me the hotter plug might give me better performance,

(better detonation), so am I crazy or what?

:cool: TJ :cool:

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Plugs have an optimum operating temperature range - the temp number of the plug essentially indicates how quick the plug will transfer heat out of the electrode. Which temperature plug is best is going to depend upon the motor design, and external factors such as available fuel (octane & energy), ambient barometric pressure, load, etc.

Too hot of a plug can cause both pre-ignition and detonation due to hot spots forming at the plug tip. This both reduces power and can be extremely detrimental to piston health. Too cold may result in an incomplete burn and a tendency for the plug to foul out. If you are increasing performance, you will usually need to move to a colder plug - especially when going forced induction. Copper plugs generally have a wider operating range than others, and generally offer the highest spark performance (yes, better than Iridiums and Platinums). The reason that most new vehicles do not come fitted with coppers is that the things wear out quickly and must be changed at regular intervals (eg. every 5k miles). Every experienced car tuner I have spoken to will tell you that Iridiums are snake oil and offer no advantage whatsoever over Platinum plugs. I don't know if the same holds true for bikes, but I would suspect so.

Note; combustion, detonation, and pre-ignition are entirely distinct scenarios and the terms should not be used interchangably.

-Pace

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...but if you want to try Iridium plugs TJ make sure you get the right ones, they are fitted as standard from 01 but these shouldn't be used on 96-00, NGK do a different Iridium one for these bikes that replaces the OEM Platinum. I reckon the only advantage is they are supposed to have double the life of Platinum but over here they are double the price as well, I stick to the standard as I like to change them every year anyway.

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Thanks for the info guys, I found that a race plug for the 1100XX in the NGK catalogue is rated as a 10 in the heat range, the standard one is rated at 9, the higher the number the colder the plug, so this runs true with what you say.....which is also handy as the plug that i have been reccomended to run which is 1mm longer is also a 10....what luck!

with the cam timing if i set at 101/101..... will the valve to Piston clearance be OK? or would i need to have the pockets machined deeper?

as for the 630 chain....yeah I heard about that stuff, sounds awsome, I ran a standard B.Bird chain for last season - about 4 test sessions and 2 races, I knew i was pushing my luck so, am gonna change it for the new TSUBAKI gold jobbie I bought. thanks for the help, any more ideas please let me know :wink:

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Stock timing on U.S. FI version is 101.5I and 105E.You should degree your cams since they are off anyway.It never hurts to check piston to valve clearance but I doubt that moving your exhaust from 105 to 100-102 is gonna cause problems.

Normal camchain and sprockets wear is going to retard your timing anyway so I don`t think 3-5 deg will spell disaster.

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