demon Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 A question for you Nitrous gurus. On a dry shot of nitrous, does the stock computer retard the timing enough for a 50 horse shot? And if I aim the nozzle at the air temp sensor, will it richen the mixture up enough? I am thinking about a PC2 as well. If not on the nos, will the mixture be too rich at WOT if I dyno tune the mixture with nos at 100% throttle? I am considering a powercommander and a dry shot or for about the same price a wet shot. In my automotive experience, I have always preferred a wet shot, but on a bike a dry shot seems simpler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveK Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 Did you mean Dry SNOT ? :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 The way I understand it, if you run a dry kit (like from NOS or NX) it is required that you use a power commander. That is the only way the engine can get the fuel. So I wouldn't risk it by trying to shoot on a sensor. I know in the LT1 and LS1 f-body's, if you run a dry kit, you have to spray 12 inches away from the MAF or it will freeze the sensor. I'm sure the same is true for the XX. The difference is you can't mount a nozzle in the airbox and stay 12 inches away from the sensor, and also the motor could suck in the nitrous before it ever gets to the sensor. I would buy the kit and the power commander, or do what I did and go direct port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 Contact NOS and ask what they recommend. In my opinion, a wet shot is the best way to go, as it guarantees there is adequate fuel to go with the nitrous. If you still choose the dry shot method, then follow the manufacturer's instructions to a "T", as one fuck-up could cost you a piston or two. Better safe (rich) than sorry (lean), especially when using nitrous. My $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted January 8, 2004 Author Share Posted January 8, 2004 Direct port wet shot (snot) is what I am leaning towards($650), mainly from a driveability standpoint. The pc would run extra rich at 100% throttle all the time whether the Nitrous is applied or not. A lot of people around here run the dry shot, but the serious runners go with the wet. I would guess that 50 - 70 horse would be the max on the stock cast pistons. Any more juice and I would have to upgrade to forged right? So I am either going to shoot the bike with nitrous and drop it a couple inches or repaint the bird in black cherry metalic with custom chrome xx badges :cool: in the spring. Maybe both if the wife can sell enough houses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pace Posted January 9, 2004 Share Posted January 9, 2004 The problem with spraying at the MAF, is that it is a mass air flow sensor. The oxygen content of nitrous oxide is significantly higher than that of free air. The MAF cannot account for that, so you will in all likelyhood run lean if you are relying on the factory ECM alone to fuel correctly. I personally plan to fit a wet shot. A through-carb backfire is my only concern with this approach. -Pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted January 9, 2004 Author Share Posted January 9, 2004 I spoke with NOS yesturday and they offer no dry system. They don't advocate the use of a dry system from a fueling standpoint. $658 for the fogger system and about $300 for a good progressive controller. $1200 for pistons and rods and $400 for a billet clutch basket. So for about $3000 I should be making some good HP numbers. The turbo route sounds like a good alternitave to the nitrous and is probably easier on parts. Time to get the calculator and thinking cap on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 $658 for the fogger system and about $300 for a good progressive controller. $1200 for pistons and rods and $400 for a billet clutch basket. So for about $3000 I should be making some good HP numbers. Don't forget all of the labor that goes with it, as well as some crank work (hell, you're in there, anyway), and a decent aftermarket full system, etc. You'll still want a PC to control the timing, also. The turbo kit will be comparable in price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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