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Electrical gremlins. Help!


LogoMan

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Yeah, mine went too.

Coupla things, air flow, to cool it off,and side load on the plug to get in the place it needs to go causes the spring in the female end to have little or no tension to make a good contact and heat is generated. Will melt the insulation off the wires too and they will melt together and short out. Can kill both the regulator and stator. Can also kill the starter relay and fuse block.

I fixed mine by replacing the plugs on mine with ones from bad regulators and stators replaced by board menbers, thanks hobi.

Asked for them when they had problems. In the mean time I tried all the regular fixes. Bullet connectors, spade conectors and then solder and heat srink.

If there is any translations needed let me know, If not then I guess I could learn Haitian, and try that to confuse the shit out of everybody....

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Yeah, mine went too.

Coupla things, air flow, to cool it off,and side load on the plug to get in the place it needs to go causes the spring in the female end to have little or no tension to make a good contact and heat is generated. Will melt the insulation off the wires too and they will melt together and short out. Can kill both the regulator and stator. Can also kill the starter relay and fuse block.

I fixed mine by replacing the plugs on mine with ones from bad regulators and stators replaced by board menbers, thanks hobi.

Asked for them when they had problems. In the mean time I tried all the regular fixes. Bullet connectors, spade conectors and then solder and heat srink.

If there is any translations needed let me know, If not then I guess I could learn Haitian, and try that to confuse the shit out of everybody....

Are you saying the "regular fixes" you listed didn't work? I guess I have to dip into cudgel's well of knowledge on this one and see if he knows a local source for what I need.

Do you think my R/R is bad? I put a new stator in the bike last yr. and haven't replaced the stock R/R. The bike was running fine even with this blinker problem.

I guess I can still do some of my trouble shooting without starting the bike.

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The bullet and spades were temp fixes, the solder and heat shrink worked, but not removable, for sure. But got me through. I did end up with my RR going full tilt charge, on me just after fixing the plugs, and was able to plug a new one in and keep going. Thanks Steve. He won't see this but I can still tell him I did say it here though.

There is a lot of load on the terminals, voltage,,, and unless the connections are tight and spread over a large area they will make a lot of heat, and melt.

and no I have no reason to think your RR is bad.

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I just finished replacing the damaged plug with a terminal block. The bike runs. Same electrical problems, though.

Cudgel walked me through a couple of things over the phone with no success. Time to pull the plastics and maybe the tank.

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I just finished replacing the damaged plug with a terminal block. The bike runs. Same electrical problems, though.

Cudgel walked me through a couple of things over the phone with no success. Time to pull the plastics and maybe the tank.

Examine the ground connection from the rear lights all the way to where they hit the chassis, this is probably where the failure is. Somewhere in this ground path I think you'll see something wrong, misconnected, corroded or broken.

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I just finished replacing the damaged plug with a terminal block. The bike runs. Same electrical problems, though.

Cudgel walked me through a couple of things over the phone with no success. Time to pull the plastics and maybe the tank.

Examine the ground connection from the rear lights all the way to where they hit the chassis, this is probably where the failure is. Somewhere in this ground path I think you'll see something wrong, misconnected, corroded or broken.

OK, I'll try that. Sure would like to cure the problem without pulling the plastics up front.

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I tried to trace the ground from the tail light and the only ground that is visible is on the frame crossmember. Four wires that appear to be the same color as the ones that go to the brake light go to a single "siamesed" connector. I unbolted the tank, lifted the rear, and unfastened the screw that secures that connector. I cleaned the connector with vinegar although it wasn't corroded. I gave it a light coating of battery terminal spray and refastened it. I noticed that the wires are quite taunt from the harness to this connection so there could be a break in one or more of the wires inside the insulation.

I noticed that the lower bulb in the tail light is not working. The socket is getting power, however. I will replace the bulb if I can find a handy source for a new one.

If I turn the key on, but do not start the bike, and hit the turn signal switch, the turn signal relay makes a metallic "sheep baaaaaa" sound. If I jump the connector at the relay, the left turn signal position on the handlebar switch turns on the right bulb and the right position turns on the left bulb. Each bulb is on steady and doesn't flash. The tail light bulb gets dimmer when this is done.

What would make the opposite turn signal go on when activating the turn signal switch?

Thanks for your help!

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I am wondering if there is something in the switch that is conducting, and then again the plug might be a problem too.

I am still guessing, just so you know.

I am still on the attack the problem in a major way. Pull all the body, unplug each connector one at a time till you get an idea where the problem is, and which stops the problem. and then move to the next one in. Since it is a combination of problems, and mimics the test plug 99 00 type of problems. I would look at the wiring diagram for locations common to the errors and trace from there.

But your going to get the most done in the shortest time by going ahead and revealing all the potentially problem areas. Going through all the connections and checking them one at a time for problems. Get that out of the way, so you know they are looked at. Then unplug the switches and see if anything is feedback causing unexpected operations.

You know what is the problem areas. So they are the areas to start with. You got something crossed, one way or the other, or using anothers ground path, because it's normal one is failed. Inspect the loom for wear spots. Etc.

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So we got front brakes

turn signals

tail lights

run switch

I am thinking that you have lost a ground connection and it is seeking another path. If it is not wear and broke wires, it is switches. Broke wire in the switch.

I am going to go out on a limb and say your switches are more than likely where the problems are at.

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Have you pulled the handle bar pods to check their wiring? Their wires can be pinched too easily to the handle bar and could cause a ground problem, which still sounds like your issue. I'd first try (maybe you already have and I missed it) disconnecting all of the turn signal connectors , switch pod connector, and if it's separate (can't remember) brake lights (and front brake switch) from both ends to see if the problem remains. If it's gone (which it should be since the switch's are no longer in play), start additional testing be reconnecting the switch pod wiring, then each lighting connector one at a time. If the problem recurs after connecting the switch's, your issue should be with the wiring between the switch and the particular light selected.

Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.

Bill

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So we got front brakes

turn signals

tail lights

run switch

I am thinking that you have lost a ground connection and it is seeking another path. If it is not wear and broke wires, it is switches. Broke wire in the switch.

I am going to go out on a limb and say your switches are more than likely where the problems are at.

Exactly.

Find the bad ground, I don't believe any switch is at fault.

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Finding a bad ground is easier said than done. I got the side fairings off. Managed to drop a fastener in the depths of an engine cranny and it took me a couple of hours to get it out. SOB!

Took the handlebar turn signal pod apart. Can't figure out any place inside to jump anything.

Will take the front cowl off and possibly the tank tomorrow.

So far, can't see any more grounds to the frame.

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Finding a bad ground is easier said than done. I got the side fairings off. Managed to drop a fastener in the depths of an engine cranny and it took me a couple of hours to get it out. SOB!

Took the handlebar turn signal pod apart. Can't figure out any place inside to jump anything.

Will take the front cowl off and possibly the tank tomorrow.

So far, can't see any more grounds to the frame.

the expectation is that the ground from the ECU is bad. Start from the ECU, and manually inspect the ground wires till they arrive at the chassis, thru what ever path they take.

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there are basicly two grounds, one on the inside, under the tank, shock mount frame, and the battery ground to the starter mount bolt.

But there is a test plug on the 02 in the loom, but I have not messed with mine, so don't know if grounds are involved. Or if there is a corrosion problem with them.

I would also wonder if any wires had burned through from the stator and regulator. Might pull the reg off and make sure that where it bolts to the frame is clean too.

It might need the ground on the body of the regulator.

I don't know, I can't see it. :icon_twisted:

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the expectation is that the ground from the ECU is bad. Start from the ECU, and manually inspect the ground wires till they arrive at the chassis, thru what ever path they take.

OK. I believe that will require removal of the tank. How can I check if the ground is bad?

there are basicly two grounds, one on the inside, under the tank, shock mount frame, and the battery ground to the starter mount bolt.

But there is a test plug on the 02 in the loom, but I have not messed with mine, so don't know if grounds are involved. Or if there is a corrosion problem with them.

I would also wonder if any wires had burned through from the stator and regulator. Might pull the reg off and make sure that where it bolts to the frame is clean too.

It might need the ground on the body of the regulator.

I don't know, I can't see it. :icon_twisted:

C'mon over. That would make things a lot easier!

The grounds on the shock mount frame got cleaned and refastened. There really was no corrosion to speak of on them. The ground wires could be compromised inside the insulation. I don't know how to check that.

Haven't checked the bolt on the starter.

No corrosion on the bike. Never sees water. OK, the horn is a bit rusty, but that's it. The Reg and mount look factory fresh.

Sorry, the project has been on hold for a couple of days. I'll be back on it tonight and give an update.

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Just pulled the fuse for the tail lights which also runs a couple of other things. Turn signals work fine with the fuse pulled. At least I know the switch is fine now, too.

Ordered a couple of new tail light bulbs today. Should get them on Wed. Having both bulbs working should have absolutely no effect on this problem, but we'll see. Stranger things have happened.

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Just pulled the fuse for the tail lights which also runs a couple of other things. Turn signals work fine with the fuse pulled. At least I know the switch is fine now, too.

Ordered a couple of new tail light bulbs today. Should get them on Wed. Having both bulbs working should have absolutely no effect on this problem, but we'll see. Stranger things have happened.

If the filliment had fallen on the other one when it broke it would work that way. could be the answer.....

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Just pulled the fuse for the tail lights which also runs a couple of other things. Turn signals work fine with the fuse pulled. At least I know the switch is fine now, too.

Ordered a couple of new tail light bulbs today. Should get them on Wed. Having both bulbs working should have absolutely no effect on this problem, but we'll see. Stranger things have happened.

If the filliment had fallen on the other one when it broke it would work that way. could be the answer.....

A tail light by itself could not cause your problem. Another wiring problem could get more confused with a bad bulb.

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Just pulled the fuse for the tail lights which also runs a couple of other things. Turn signals work fine with the fuse pulled. At least I know the switch is fine now, too.

Ordered a couple of new tail light bulbs today. Should get them on Wed. Having both bulbs working should have absolutely no effect on this problem, but we'll see. Stranger things have happened.

If the filliment had fallen on the other one when it broke it would work that way. could be the answer.....

A tail light by itself could not cause your problem. Another wiring problem could get more confused with a bad bulb.

cudgel also said no chance that the bad bulb could be the problem. We talked about the sidestand switch possibly being bad. I'll disconnect that and see if that makes a difference.

Am I correct in assuming that the green wire from the tail light bulbs is the ground wire?

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