Warp11XX Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 The shim goes between the bulb base ring and the headlight housing. The wire retainer clip closes and seats against the backside of the bulb base ring directly. This not only tightens the fit, it places the actual arc in a better position to be cast by the reflector. Just a friendly reminder....DO NOT touch the glass envelope with your fingers at any time during install. If you do accidentally make contact with the glass, use med quality cotton swabs soaked in alcohol to throughly clean the contact area of the glass. Let dry completely, then install. The skin oils transferred on contact will otherwise contaminate the ultra hot surface of the glass during use, causing deformation and failure in fairly short order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Now I did not use the garden hose washers as other had suggested, I used the foam ring that was included in the original packaging that my bulbs came in over 4 yrs ago.....(gasp).... The foam ring withstood the heat? I've not done anything yet, but for those who did the hose washer route, any problems to report? I doubt I have any spare spark plug wire lying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dehning Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I understand the reasoning behind using the silicone wire instead of the plastic hose seal. You could just as easily pick up a cheap silicone oven mit from somewhere like Walmart and cut a few rings from that. I'm still going to have to try messing with the bulb placement especially now that I will be doing it on the Hayabusa too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Different approaches.... and I'm sure they have different results. or between the bulb and the wire cage that holds the bulb in place. Exactly ^ If you put the bulb in and swing the retaining wire over you will notice that it will not cinch down tight enough to hold the bulb in it's proper place. Now I did not use the garden hose washers as other had suggested, I used the foam ring that was included in the original packaging that my bulbs came in over 4 yrs ago.....(gasp).... Had to replace one bulb a few months back, think it may have become a victim of my stator/RR going south but just speculating on that...anyhoo the packing foam ring I had used worked very well and only showed crushing in the area it was under pressure...no spontaneous combustion or anything...... The shim goes between the bulb base ring and the headlight housing. The wire retainer clip closes and seats against the backside of the bulb base ring directly. This not only tightens the fit, it places the actual arc in a better position to be cast by the reflector. Just a friendly reminder....DO NOT touch the glass envelope with your fingers at any time during install. If you do accidentally make contact with the glass, use med quality cotton swabs soaked in alcohol to throughly clean the contact area of the glass. Let dry completely, then install. The skin oils transferred on contact will otherwise contaminate the ultra hot surface of the glass during use, causing deformation and failure in fairly short order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Now I did not use the garden hose washers as other had suggested, I used the foam ring that was included in the original packaging that my bulbs came in over 4 yrs ago.....(gasp).... The foam ring withstood the heat? I've not done anything yet, but for those who did the hose washer route, any problems to report? I doubt I have any spare spark plug wire lying around. Yes sir, it sure has as of 4 years and counting, It didn't look like it was exposed to any real heat upon my last inspection..the ring is outside of the projector assembly so I'm sure any heat is pretty minimal. The shim goes between the bulb base ring and the headlight housing. Not sure I understand your method, so the spacer "shim" would go over the glass portion of the bulb and then slide down to the base of it? Then of course put into the projector assembly? I didn't think anything should get in the way of the bulb being inserted into the assembly as far as it would allow. Others have cut the original spacer off of the stock bulb and utilized it in the stock position but I preferred not to cut into the stock spacer....not that it would be that hard to buy another if you were pressed to put it all back to stock form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warp11XX Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Not sure I understand your method, so the spacer "shim" would go over the glass portion of the bulb and then slide down to the base of it? Then of course put into the projector assembly? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Not sure I understand your method, so the spacer "shim" would go over the glass portion of the bulb and then slide down to the base of it? Then of course put into the projector assembly? That, or you could be non-conformist and put the spacers on the back of the lamp housing and insert the bulb through them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Not sure I understand your method, so the spacer "shim" would go over the glass portion of the bulb and then slide down to the base of it? Then of course put into the projector assembly? Yes. Ok, my only concern would have been on limiting the amount the bulb enters the headlight assy, if no ill lighting effects it would seem as another viable way to install them. Not sure I understand your method, so the spacer "shim" would go over the glass portion of the bulb and then slide down to the base of it? Then of course put into the projector assembly? That, or you could be non-conformist and put the spacers on the back of the lamp housing and insert the bulb through them. Being in that configuration the bulb glass would be in direct contact w/ the spacer, I understand why Eric suggested using as stated below. The Spark Plug ends suggested earlier, would be made of Silicone Rubber, and would be Heat Inert, meaning they won't Shrink, or Melt, or Catch fire..... due to the heat of the bulb, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Wow. Returning some stuff to the bike shop (didn't use) for credit. I stopped by the service department to see if they had any old spark plug wire lying around I could use. They didn't and one guy commented that if I was looking for something I could "Afro-engineer" I should go to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtwan251975 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 WHICH IS THE BEST ONE TO BUY THE 35 OR 55 AND IN WHICH COLOR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 WHICH IS THE BEST ONE TO BUY THE 35 OR 55 AND IN WHICH COLOR I think... The BEST one's are the 55's in 5K. But that's just my opinion. (Also the 6-7K's in 35W, and the 6-8K's in 55W, should give you slightly less Eye strain if you happen to find yourself riding in Hazy weather, but go too blue say 10-12K, and you might find it more difficult to see contrasts.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dehning Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 +1 on the 55W @ 5K, they are just blue enough to look cool! That's what I put on my personal bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 http://www.manyadeal.com/page.html?id=24 I went with 55w because that's what the XX uses for stock bulbs. I went with 4500K because it was the best improvement over stock bulbs. The light temperature is more one of aesthetics, and while I don't know the value of 3000K, the site I found said that 4300K was 3X brighter than stock and the color was very close to standard headlights; with yellow light being reflected off the road (important as it's part of what you need to see distance effectively). Since 4500K was the closest, I went with that. This range was recommended for off-road use because it was for maximum visibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warp11XX Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 My $.02 on that...the 5K and above is going to be significantly blue, in fact I think they're blue enough to get you the opportunity to talk with the local and state "howdy boys" on a regular basis here in the great Communistwealth. The bitch of it is, the mod is totally illegal, and doesn't conform to fed or state DOT standards if they wanna be pricks about it... I just don't like those random official conversations all that much I guess, especially since I usually end up getting the fuzzy end of the lollipop. 35W hi/lo and 4200K is what I've got...nice white unobtrusive color and a LOT of light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I went with the 35W 6k and it's bright as shit. The 55w would be just too much. The problem is none of these head light housings are set up for HID so you throw lots uf unused light all around giving it a halo effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 The problem is none of these head light housings are set up for HID so you throw lots uf unused light all around giving it a halo effect. Correction.... No ! You have a Inferior Headlight Housing... ...... It's a BUSA, what did you expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 The problem is none of these head light housings are set up for HID so you throw lots uf unused light all around giving it a halo effect. Correction.... No ! You have a Inferior Headlight Housing... ...... It's a BUSA, what did you expect. Oh you.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 True ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Does Ernest know the kind of hater you are?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Does Ernest know the kind of hater you are?? Yes ! Actually, I'm not a Hater of the Busa... Truth is there's a lot to like about those Zuki-Busa's. The Power, the Suspension, and on the older models, those cool little things like the Gas tank prop rod, and mpg calculator. ( you should know this, we talked a lot about this in Montrose, and the real reason I wouldn't ride your bike when you offered. ) I just don't like the Headlight..... I have always Hated the Projector Beam headlights, mainly because they have mediocre optics. Now there was a guy on the G35Driver site, that performed a moderately difficult Modification to his Projector beams, and in that case I love them, but that's a hole separate story. More in a bit.... OK, back to add... I bought a set of the 35w raptors in 5K, for my parents 02 Acura CL 3.0, and last night I installed them. Everything was pretty easy, except for wedging my hand behind the drivers side headlamp, when trying to install the new bulb, without touching anything, got it, but it hurt a little. Everything pluged together and was in in about 20 minutes. Great ! Turned on the Car... and Got Nothing. No Lights. WTF ! After a little back tracking I found that the Plug-ins that power the Ballasts, are wired Backwards. So the power wire from the car was connected to the negative wire going into the Ballast. A simple fix later, and they worked Great. The 5K's are very white, with the ever so slightest touch of Blue. ( But this could be argued to no end, because my wife says they are just white, no blue. Maybe it's more of a perception thing, since there in NO yellow in the Light, I just think they have a touch of Blue. In any event, I don't think they'll be getting pulled over in any state, because stock BMW HID's are Blue'r. ) In any event, my Mom and Dad are very happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 I would have thought every new bike out there would have had a more effective headlight than a 98 Blackbird…… I was wrong. My bike only has the projector on the high beams and it really focuses the light, the problem is you can’t adjust it seperatly from the low beam and it set to high from the factory. The HID really needs a projector to help control and direct the light. As is the HID bulb in an OEM housing set up for H7’s throws lots of light all around. Some guys are doing a “retro fit” with a projector and seperat adjuster to give you better control of the light. Havn’t seen one in person yet. I went with the 6k bulb because the 4-5K seemed to much like natural light and blends in during the day. IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Well, it took a few hours, but I have the whole system together. Never used the hose washers....they wouldn't fit. They were too small and would have fallen into the lamp housing. Installing the ballasts were a total pain in the ass. I did at least 3 attempts to find a place to fit them before I got something that worked. In essence, I wedged one to the left and one to the right between the frame holding the instrument cluster and the instrument cluster. Pure aggravation, but I hope it never gives me a problem. Wires are zip tied up and I even color coded some connections so I'd know which ones go where if I have to disconnect anything. There is almost no free space to work with behind the fairings to put extra hardware in. Thankfully once the front cowl was back on, I could reach up and connect the lamp feeds to the ballasts without too much trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Well, it took a few hours, but I have the whole system together. Never used the hose washers....they wouldn't fit. They were too small and would have fallen into the lamp housing. Installing the ballasts were a total pain in the ass. I did at least 3 attempts to find a place to fit them before I got something that worked. In essence, I wedged one to the left and one to the right between the frame holding the instrument cluster and the instrument cluster. Pure aggravation, but I hope it never gives me a problem. Wires are zip tied up and I even color coded some connections so I'd know which ones go where if I have to disconnect anything. There is almost no free space to work with behind the fairings to put extra hardware in. Thankfully once the front cowl was back on, I could reach up and connect the lamp feeds to the ballasts without too much trouble. What...... no pics of the install?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 What...... no pics of the install?? I took pics. Just didn't take the time to post. Gotta find the relevant ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Here are my pics. First is my first attempt. I bolted the two ballasts together and zip tied them up behind the instrument cluster along with most everything else. Lights wouldn't go back on with them in place. With the second attempt, I hung the ballasts differently thinking I could put the rest of the stuff elsewhere (pics 2 and 3). That didn't work either, but I was getting closer. Finally, I was about to quit and saw that only one ballast could fit behind the lights, so I angled each one opposing each other. As you can see, I color-coded my wires so I'd know which ones went where later. Blue = High beam. For some reason the photos I loaded don't appear in the order listed. I think you can figure it out though. ORDER OF PICS BELOW... 4, 5, 3, 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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