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Audiovox cruise wiring questions...


testrider

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I just got the Audiovox ccs100 cruise control and I'm reading all the instructions/write-ups before I started.

The question is (see attached pic):

- Is there any reason why I can't wire the RED wire from the servo to the same switched 12V source, together with the RED wire from the control switch? I don't want the servo still gets a live 12V when the ignition is off.

Thanks.

-mike-

114852950.jpg

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I just got the Audiovox ccs100 cruise control and I'm reading all the instructions/write-ups before I started.

The question is (see attached pic):

- Is there any reason why I can't wire the RED wire from the servo to the same switched 12V source, together with the RED wire from the control switch? I don't want the servo still gets a live 12V when the ignition is off.

Thanks.

-mike-

114852950.jpg

Don't see why not mine is wired hot with a fuse but you should still work with it hooked to a switched 12V. If the proceedure gives you a troubleshooting section when your done then run through it. If it passes your good to go.

Check my thread install for your control switch as well think you'll like the results

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Wired mine through a relay controlled fuse block and it works just fine.

IIRC the red wire from control switch is if you want to light the switch, but I'd have to check instructions again to be sure. It is very nice to be able to see the switch at night.

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Wired mine through a relay controlled fuse block and it works just fine.

IIRC the red wire from control switch is if you want to light the switch, but I'd have to check instructions again to be sure. It is very nice to be able to see the switch at night.

It also suplies the voltage inputs to the servo unit for the different switch settings so you will need the power to it

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I started out with the red wire directly to the battery, but found that it was drawing current with the power off, so I wired it to my relay/keyed power block, and haven't had a problem at all with it since.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I started out with the red wire directly to the battery, but found that it was drawing current with the power off, so I wired it to my relay/keyed power block, and haven't had a problem at all with it since.

Well this is all well and good, that is the way mine has been hooked for years. I am playing with some stuff right now, and just found out that my fuseblock, while it is a switched one, through a relay, it does not cut off during cranking. Never has, I guess. The dealer gave me the original switched wire, and I see it is hooked to the red wire coming out from the original fuse block for the headlight.

The audiovox instructions direct that the fused wire be hooked to a source that is 0V switch OFF, 12V switch ON,and 0V during cranking.

Now if it dosn't HAVE to be that way, so be it. What worries me is that I have been running all my farkles on a circuit that allows that huge starting surge (or drop) to go through them. Where should I hook the relay positive that will do the job?

(By the way, Vern, the GREY wire is the wire for the backlight. I looked it up)

Any Edisons out there?

Thanks!

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Philip,

I went to Radio Shack and bought a sealed 12 volt relay and a automotive style fuse holder.

I found a relay that switched on with ignition, fuel pump I think and used the same feed wire to pull in my new AUX relay.

I fed power from the battery, through the fuse, to one of the contacts of the relay. I supplied power to both the red wires of the cruise from the

other contact. This way, both circuits are fused, and only come on with the switch. I also left the in line fuse from the cruise control red wire in place for extra protection. To light the control box, I just wired the grey wire to the brown wire at the 4 pin control connector. Ground was a screw that holds the side fairing mount to the frame.

You could do the same thing, just find the relay that feeds the headlight. That should drop out during cranking.

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