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ECU


gharknes

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No I havent opened the blackbirds before, but I have opened similiar things on other bike's & I can tell you that, most likely will be filled-up with a rubber type epoxy & you wont be able to access the board, that stuff is hard if not impossible to get off anything.

What are you trying to access it for ?

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basically I believe I have a fault in the ecu, if what you say is true then I agree there would be no point in opening it, I know the ecu in a car is a bolt togeher metal box, i did some work on mine a few years back.........read my thread on the knock sensor

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basically I believe I have a fault in the ecu, if what you say is true then I agree there would be no point in opening it, I know the ecu in a car is a bolt togeher metal box, i did some work on mine a few years back.........read my thread on the knock sensor

Dont know if it was mentioned already, but your best bet would be to buy a used ECU from ebay.uk (since you are overseas) & swap them out.

I seriously doubt the naked eye could detect any problem in the board, they are very high tech & everything is micro organized, even if you did find it, fixing it would be nearly impossible even if you had the tools/knowledge/equiptment, sounds like the ECU itself may have been a Manuf. defect if that is the real problem.

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I got a MSD ignition box from a guy many years ago that he asked me to repair if possible. I cutted the rivets on the bottom plate and found it was totally filled with epoxy, it was a digital marine version....I returned the box with the comment that it was not possible to repair.

I couple of months later the guy called and said he had removed all epoxy, he had been working on it during many evenings with a heat gun and hand tools. The guy was a fin and they don't seem to give up easy. I said OK, send me the unit and I'll fix it for you if there still are parts in it that are not mechanically damaged after your hard work...One or two components that was vertically mounted on the PC-board was broken but those were just to replace. I also replaced a couple of transistors in the coil driver circuitry and then it worked as new. I secured the heavier components with silicone and returned the unit to a very happy guy. I even did it for free since he had done an incredibly work himself, and is was a cheap commercial since I knew the story would spread quick as a fire between racers.

I wouldn't recommend this work to anyone and these days I don’t repair such stuff other than my own equipments. It is nicer to use the time off work to ride.

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......................................

The guy was a fin and they don't seem to give up easy. ..........................................

Fuckin' fins

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......................................

The guy was a fin and they don't seem to give up easy. ..........................................

Fuckin' fins

ask the russians

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......................................

The guy was a fin and they don't seem to give up easy. ..........................................

Fuckin' fins

Hey hey hey...behave yourself. :icon_twisted:

Remember you know at least one Finn.

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......................................

The guy was a fin and they don't seem to give up easy. ..........................................

Fuckin' fins

Hey hey hey...behave yourself. :icon_twisted:

Remember you know at least one Finn.

Yeah, that's the POINT!!

:icon_twisted:

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......................................

The guy was a fin and they don't seem to give up easy. ..........................................

Fuckin' fins

Hey hey hey...behave yourself. :icon_twisted:

Remember you know at least one Finn.

Yeah, that's the POINT!!

:icon_twisted:

Bastard.... :icon_evilgrin:

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basically I believe I have a fault in the ecu, if what you say is true then I agree there would be no point in opening it, I know the ecu in a car is a bolt togeher metal box, i did some work on mine a few years back.........read my thread on the knock sensor

Dont know if it was mentioned already, but your best bet would be to buy a used ECU from ebay.uk (since you are overseas) & swap them out.

I seriously doubt the naked eye could detect any problem in the board, they are very high tech & everything is micro organized, even if you did find it, fixing it would be nearly impossible even if you had the tools/knowledge/equiptment, sounds like the ECU itself may have been a Manuf. defect if that is the real problem.

I have worked in electronics all my working life, I do understand what you say but state of the art honda or most auto electric are not, it's really old hat for me and the new stuff - well you'd be amazed what I have repaired before, anyway thanks for the eplies guys

and correct me if I'm wrong, you cannot just buy an ecu for the bird - you need the matching ingnition assemby also

basically I believe I have a fault in the ecu, if what you say is true then I agree there would be no point in opening it, I know the ecu in a car is a bolt togeher metal box, i did some work on mine a few years back.........read my thread on the knock sensor

Dont know if it was mentioned already, but your best bet would be to buy a used ECU from ebay.uk (since you are overseas) & swap them out.

I seriously doubt the naked eye could detect any problem in the board, they are very high tech & everything is micro organized, even if you did find it, fixing it would be nearly impossible even if you had the tools/knowledge/equiptment, sounds like the ECU itself may have been a Manuf. defect if that is the real problem.

I have worked in electronics all my working life, I do understand what you say but state of the art honda or most auto electric are not, it's really old hat for me and the new stuff - well you'd be amazed what I have repaired before, anyway thanks for the eplies guys

and correct me if I'm wrong, you cannot just buy an ecu for the bird - you need the matching ingnition assemby also

thanks for keeping everything on topic guys, when a bird goes seriously wrong as long as.................................................

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basically I believe I have a fault in the ecu, if what you say is true then I agree there would be no point in opening it, I know the ecu in a car is a bolt togeher metal box, i did some work on mine a few years back.........read my thread on the knock sensor

Dont know if it was mentioned already, but your best bet would be to buy a used ECU from ebay.uk (since you are overseas) & swap them out.

I seriously doubt the naked eye could detect any problem in the board, they are very high tech & everything is micro organized, even if you did find it, fixing it would be nearly impossible even if you had the tools/knowledge/equiptment, sounds like the ECU itself may have been a Manuf. defect if that is the real problem.

I have worked in electronics all my working life, I do understand what you say but state of the art honda or most auto electric are not, it's really old hat for me and the new stuff - well you'd be amazed what I have repaired before, anyway thanks for the eplies guys

and correct me if I'm wrong, you cannot just buy an ecu for the bird - you need the matching ingnition assemby also

basically I believe I have a fault in the ecu, if what you say is true then I agree there would be no point in opening it, I know the ecu in a car is a bolt togeher metal box, i did some work on mine a few years back.........read my thread on the knock sensor

Dont know if it was mentioned already, but your best bet would be to buy a used ECU from ebay.uk (since you are overseas) & swap them out.

I seriously doubt the naked eye could detect any problem in the board, they are very high tech & everything is micro organized, even if you did find it, fixing it would be nearly impossible even if you had the tools/knowledge/equiptment, sounds like the ECU itself may have been a Manuf. defect if that is the real problem.

I have worked in electronics all my working life, I do understand what you say but state of the art honda or most auto electric are not, it's really old hat for me and the new stuff - well you'd be amazed what I have repaired before, anyway thanks for the eplies guys

and correct me if I'm wrong, you cannot just buy an ecu for the bird - you need the matching ingnition assemby also

thanks for keeping everything on topic guys, when a bird goes seriously wrong as long as.................................................

Not true........ 1997-1998 interchange (plug&play&drive)

1999-2000 interchange (plug&play&drive)

2001-2003 interchange (plug&play&drive)

They are not VIN specfic, just the model & years specific, & there is no anti-theft software anywhere on the XX (if that was your concern).

*edit to correct the year's (US models)

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Not true........ 1997-1998 interchange (plug&play&drive)

1999-2001 interchange (plug&play&drive)

2002-2006 interchange (plug&play&drive)

They are not VIN specfic, just the model & years specific, & there is no anti-theft software anywhere on the XX (if that was your concern).

You guys obviously don't have HISS in the US like here in Aus because with that if your ECU goes to shit then you do need to replace the keys etc :icon_surprised: If you lose your keys you are up for a new ECU :icon_surprised:

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Most of the hard epoxies, you can burn off with an exacto knife and heat gun. Just make sure you don't get the PCB over 150-180C. Solder will start to flow and components will get fried.

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Understand this is primarily a North American forum, and we don't have a mandated factory anti-theft system. Some folks may not know what HISS is, so while their advice is legitimate here in the Americas, things may differ across either of the ponds.

That was the point that I was trying to make, Gharknes is in Thailand so would more than likely have a bike made to Aus or EU specs where they have the Honda anti theft system (HISS) :icon_think:

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Understand this is primarily a North American forum, and we don't have a mandated factory anti-theft system. Some folks may not know what HISS is, so while their advice is legitimate here in the Americas, things may differ across either of the ponds.

That was the point that I was trying to make, Gharknes is in Thailand so would more than likely have a bike made to Aus or EU specs where they have the Honda anti theft system (HISS) :icon_think:

Sorry for the in-correct info on the ECU I was totally unaware of the HISS system you guy's have over there. :icon_redface:

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Understand this is primarily a North American forum, and we don't have a mandated factory anti-theft system. Some folks may not know what HISS is, so while their advice is legitimate here in the Americas, things may differ across either of the ponds.

That was the point that I was trying to make, Gharknes is in Thailand so would more than likely have a bike made to Aus or EU specs where they have the Honda anti theft system (HISS) :icon_think:

Sorry for the in-correct info on the ECU I was totally unaware of the HISS system you guy's have over there. :icon_redface:

No skin off my nose mate, you get these sort of things on vehicles sold worldwide :icon_surprised: I mean until I removed the tank and looked I assumed that my 98 Ti XX had a PAIR system like everyone else as that was what the manual said :icon_surprised:

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