Guest cudgel Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 I think I've read all the threads concerning R/R failures and switching to the '01 Yamaha R1 R/R. Has there been a thread showing results of this swap, as in success percentages and total number of this swap done? How long have they lasted? What's the longest anyone has run one after the swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 I have an FI bird, but the R1 RR should last the life of the bike, its design is far superior to that on the 97-98 XX with it's large cooling fins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 4 months and 6k miles with no trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew Dawg Dave Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 4 months and 6k miles with no trouble. *Hijack on* I completed the swap a month ago on my 97. The question I have is how hot is the R1 R/R suppose to get? After a 15-20 minute ride home from work I can barely touch it and the subframe 6-8 inches in all directions get hot to warm. Is this normal?? *Hijack off* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cudgel Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 R/Rs run hot enough to burn you. This is considered normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew Dawg Dave Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 R/Rs run hot enough to burn you. This is considered normal. Thanks for the info!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 R/Rs run hot enough to burn you. This is considered normal. My stock one ran hot enough to burn me, but unless I'm running my high beam all the time on a hot day, I can touch the R1 R/R and not have to take my hand away quickly before being burnt. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 R/Rs run hot enough to burn you. This is considered normal. My stock one ran hot enough to burn me, but unless I'm running my high beam all the time on a hot day, I can touch the R1 R/R and not have to take my hand away quickly before being burnt. Mike For posterity... I had my Gerbing jacket liner and gloves on full the last half of the way to work today on the interstate (voltage was reading a pretty constant 13.2V, as far as load is concerned. It usually runs 14.3 going down the road), and through the business park at 40mph for the last mile and a half, and the Yamaha R/R was approximately ~110 degrees F when I got off the bike. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 R/Rs run hot enough to burn you. This is considered normal. My stock one ran hot enough to burn me, but unless I'm running my high beam all the time on a hot day, I can touch the R1 R/R and not have to take my hand away quickly before being burnt. Mike For posterity... I had my Gerbing jacket liner and gloves on full the last half of the way to work today on the interstate (voltage was reading a pretty constant 13.2V, as far as load is concerned. It usually runs 14.3 going down the road), and through the business park at 40mph for the last mile and a half, and the Yamaha R/R was approximately ~110 degrees F when I got off the bike. Mike First off: It's not that cold, Mike, you pussy, you don't need Gerbing gear yet. Second: Wouldn't the RR be cooler if it didn't have to bleed off excess electricity because it's charging the bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 R/Rs run hot enough to burn you. This is considered normal. My stock one ran hot enough to burn me, but unless I'm running my high beam all the time on a hot day, I can touch the R1 R/R and not have to take my hand away quickly before being burnt. Mike For posterity... I had my Gerbing jacket liner and gloves on full the last half of the way to work today on the interstate (voltage was reading a pretty constant 13.2V, as far as load is concerned. It usually runs 14.3 going down the road), and through the business park at 40mph for the last mile and a half, and the Yamaha R/R was approximately ~110 degrees F when I got off the bike. Mike First off: It's not that cold, Mike, you pussy, you don't need Gerbing gear yet. Second: Wouldn't the RR be cooler if it didn't have to bleed off excess electricity because it's charging the bike? Yeah, I know, but it was cool enough (45F) to not burn up on the interstate with it on full, and I wanted to test the stator before it was 15 degrees, and I've got to ride 40 miles home with no electrics because the charging system gave up... Actaully, there's voltage and current... When there is very little load, the reg has to burn off a lot of voltage, but at almost no current, and since power equals voltage * current, there isn't a lot of power (heat) that the R/R has to burn up to regulate the voltage. On the other hand, if you're running a lot of current for electrics or lighting or whatever, you're still burning off a lot of voltage, but instead of burning 20V off the top at 1A (20 watts), you're burning 15V off the top at 8A (120 Watts). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActionStarCBRxx Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 6k 8 months for me with the R1 R/R. Hot to touch on the 97. Its a little hotter then the engine heat coming off the bike around the legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rideonXX Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 I've had one on since April of '06 and over 9K miles---works great. I put a heat sink behind mine which bleeds off any heat as well. Just make sure your connections are real good and can't vibrate loose. Happy trails kel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Yeah, I know, but it was cool enough (45F) to not burn up on the interstate with it on full, and I wanted to test the stator before it was 15 degrees, and I've got to ride 40 miles home with no electrics because the charging system gave up... Actaully, there's voltage and current... When there is very little load, the reg has to burn off a lot of voltage, but at almost no current, and since power equals voltage * current, there isn't a lot of power (heat) that the R/R has to burn up to regulate the voltage. On the other hand, if you're running a lot of current for electrics or lighting or whatever, you're still burning off a lot of voltage, but instead of burning 20V off the top at 1A (20 watts), you're burning 15V off the top at 8A (120 Watts). Mike Was just giving you shit about the electrics. Good idea to test the whole system. I'll send you a PM with what I found was up with my charging system. Thanks for the actual explanation, although I'm still pretty clueless. <-- Admitting ignorance! So.. to talk through it, maybe I should look at this a different way: If the system needed more current, it would have to convert that extra voltage to DC, then step down the voltage (upping the current via the ratio), and apply that energy back to the system, which is a lot more work than just burning off the extra AC voltage (and minimal current) to ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Yeah, I know, but it was cool enough (45F) to not burn up on the interstate with it on full, and I wanted to test the stator before it was 15 degrees, and I've got to ride 40 miles home with no electrics because the charging system gave up... Actaully, there's voltage and current... When there is very little load, the reg has to burn off a lot of voltage, but at almost no current, and since power equals voltage * current, there isn't a lot of power (heat) that the R/R has to burn up to regulate the voltage. On the other hand, if you're running a lot of current for electrics or lighting or whatever, you're still burning off a lot of voltage, but instead of burning 20V off the top at 1A (20 watts), you're burning 15V off the top at 8A (120 Watts). Mike Was just giving you shit about the electrics. Good idea to test the whole system. I'll send you a PM with what I found was up with my charging system. Thanks for the actual explanation, although I'm still pretty clueless. <-- Admitting ignorance! So.. to talk through it, maybe I should look at this a different way: If the system needed more current, it would have to convert that extra voltage to DC, then step down the voltage (upping the current via the ratio), and apply that energy back to the system, which is a lot more work than just burning off the extra AC voltage (and minimal current) to ground? Kind-of, except one thing... A regulator does not actually "step down" the voltage and trade it for current like a transformer does. A regulator just turns any voltage higher than the set voltage into heat and dissipates it. If the load current goes up, it still has to take about the same amount of voltage off the top, but it also has to eat up the extra current from that voltage off the top, and since current AND voltage make power, you're burning more power into heat than if you were running less current through the R/R. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew Dawg Dave Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Yeah, I know, but it was cool enough (45F) to not burn up on the interstate with it on full, and I wanted to test the stator before it was 15 degrees, and I've got to ride 40 miles home with no electrics because the charging system gave up... Actaully, there's voltage and current... When there is very little load, the reg has to burn off a lot of voltage, but at almost no current, and since power equals voltage * current, there isn't a lot of power (heat) that the R/R has to burn up to regulate the voltage. On the other hand, if you're running a lot of current for electrics or lighting or whatever, you're still burning off a lot of voltage, but instead of burning 20V off the top at 1A (20 watts), you're burning 15V off the top at 8A (120 Watts). Mike Was just giving you shit about the electrics. Good idea to test the whole system. I'll send you a PM with what I found was up with my charging system. Thanks for the actual explanation, although I'm still pretty clueless. <-- Admitting ignorance! So.. to talk through it, maybe I should look at this a different way: If the system needed more current, it would have to convert that extra voltage to DC, then step down the voltage (upping the current via the ratio), and apply that energy back to the system, which is a lot more work than just burning off the extra AC voltage (and minimal current) to ground? Kind-of, except one thing... A regulator does not actually "step down" the voltage and trade it for current like a transformer does. A regulator just turns any voltage higher than the set voltage into heat and dissipates it. If the load current goes up, it still has to take about the same amount of voltage off the top, but it also has to eat up the extra current from that voltage off the top, and since current AND voltage make power, you're burning more power into heat than if you were running less current through the R/R. Mike ???? Uh?? So if I understand correctly... The more things I have on ie. high beams, electric vest ect... the cooler the R/R runs, and the few things are on the hotter the R/R will run because the engery is converted into heat. Is this right?? **Please remember I'm keeping this simple...** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 Yeah, I know, but it was cool enough (45F) to not burn up on the interstate with it on full, and I wanted to test the stator before it was 15 degrees, and I've got to ride 40 miles home with no electrics because the charging system gave up... Actaully, there's voltage and current... When there is very little load, the reg has to burn off a lot of voltage, but at almost no current, and since power equals voltage * current, there isn't a lot of power (heat) that the R/R has to burn up to regulate the voltage. On the other hand, if you're running a lot of current for electrics or lighting or whatever, you're still burning off a lot of voltage, but instead of burning 20V off the top at 1A (20 watts), you're burning 15V off the top at 8A (120 Watts). Mike Was just giving you shit about the electrics. Good idea to test the whole system. I'll send you a PM with what I found was up with my charging system. Thanks for the actual explanation, although I'm still pretty clueless. <-- Admitting ignorance! So.. to talk through it, maybe I should look at this a different way: If the system needed more current, it would have to convert that extra voltage to DC, then step down the voltage (upping the current via the ratio), and apply that energy back to the system, which is a lot more work than just burning off the extra AC voltage (and minimal current) to ground? Kind-of, except one thing... A regulator does not actually "step down" the voltage and trade it for current like a transformer does. A regulator just turns any voltage higher than the set voltage into heat and dissipates it. If the load current goes up, it still has to take about the same amount of voltage off the top, but it also has to eat up the extra current from that voltage off the top, and since current AND voltage make power, you're burning more power into heat than if you were running less current through the R/R. Mike ???? Uh?? So if I understand correctly... The more things I have on ie. high beams, electric vest ect... the cooler the R/R runs, and the few things are on the hotter the R/R will run because the engery is converted into heat. Is this right?? **Please remember I'm keeping this simple...** No, that's exactly the opposite of what happens. The power you're burning into heat, that I was talking above, is the power the R/R is burning into heat. The more stuff you're running, the hotter the R/R gets. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitaniumBird Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 I'm finally getting around to sorting out my charging issue. Battery is good, stator is good (.2 to .3 ohm across the three yella wires) and the regulator doesn't do anything like the tests that pinned electrical debug documents suggests. So, I'm going to replace the regulator, now just a matter of what parts. This post mentions using the R1 R/R on the bird, does this stand true for a 2000 FI bird or should I just go with OEM?? If you can go with the R/R for the Yamaha is there any modification required (soldering etc) or does it plug right into the existing loom? EDIT: Oh yeah, a part number would ROCK if anyone does have a lock on the R1 R/R, otherwise I'll just go with OEM, I don't want to get into hacking the part, I have enough trouble with electrical stuffs. So like, HELP! Thanks, K- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 4 months and 6k miles with no trouble. *Hijack on* I completed the swap a month ago on my 97. The question I have is how hot is the R1 R/R suppose to get? After a 15-20 minute ride home from work I can barely touch it and the subframe 6-8 inches in all directions get hot to warm. Is this normal?? *Hijack off* It is normal that the R/R becomes quite warm but any measures to reduce the heat will prolong its life. The rule of thumb is that the lifetime of electronics will be halved for every 10 Deg C increase above room temperature. It is therefore quite strange that Honda mounts the R/R on a painted frame and not on bare metal that transfer heat MUCH better. Anyone working with electronics would never mount e.g. a high power transistor on a painted surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dotetcher Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I'm finally getting around to sorting out my charging issue. Battery is good, stator is good (.2 to .3 ohm across the three yella wires) and the regulator doesn't do anything like the tests that pinned electrical debug documents suggests. So, I'm going to replace the regulator, now just a matter of what parts. This post mentions using the R1 R/R on the bird, does this stand true for a 2000 FI bird or should I just go with OEM?? If you can go with the R/R for the Yamaha is there any modification required (soldering etc) or does it plug right into the existing loom? EDIT: Oh yeah, a part number would ROCK if anyone does have a lock on the R1 R/R, otherwise I'll just go with OEM, I don't want to get into hacking the part, I have enough trouble with electrical stuffs. So like, HELP! Thanks, K- Does it matter what year R1? I'm noticing different prices from different years and also ALOT more expensive than what I expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitaniumBird Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 For some reason I'm a little retarded when it comes to comprehnsion of some of the text out there on how to test this stuff. I found this on another board and it makes more sense to me than some of the other things I've read. Motorcycle Electrical Parts (ElectroSport Industries)http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html First check continuity of each of the yellow wire to a ground. You need a multi meter. All three wires should NOT have contunity. Then check the resistance of each wire. They should be at .5 or below. Then with the bike ideling with the three stator wires unplugged, used your multimeter to cross between 2 of the yellow wires doing all the possible combinations. In other words. there are 3 wires. A B C. Check A-B, then B-C, then A-C. The wires should have 50 volts each. If they are less or uneven, there your problem. You should also check contunity from the green wire in the rectifier/regulator harness to the negative side of the battery.. Then check the voltage from the red wire in the rectifier/regulator harness to the negative side of the battery. The voltage should be the same as when you just measure the battery directly. If it is less you have a short in the harness somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitaniumBird Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 So I went back to the drawing board and re-tested. Looks like I'm not getting much of any voltage while the bike is running from the loom side of the (three yellow) wires stator. I'm putting the leads of the test meter in various combinations on the yellow wires and getting readings of either 0 vdc or .02 volts where it's supposed to be 50 volts. Sound right? Meanwhile stator checks out okay when not running checking between yellows, resistance is all under .05. I'm so lost with this stuff. Sounds like stator is bad eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Will need to rev to 2k or 3k to see any volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Eddy Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I'm finally getting around to sorting out my charging issue. Battery is good, stator is good (.2 to .3 ohm across the three yella wires) and the regulator doesn't do anything like the tests that pinned electrical debug documents suggests. So, I'm going to replace the regulator, now just a matter of what parts. This post mentions using the R1 R/R on the bird, does this stand true for a 2000 FI bird or should I just go with OEM?? If you can go with the R/R for the Yamaha is there any modification required (soldering etc) or does it plug right into the existing loom? EDIT: Oh yeah, a part number would ROCK if anyone does have a lock on the R1 R/R, otherwise I'll just go with OEM, I don't want to get into hacking the part, I have enough trouble with electrical stuffs. So like, HELP! Thanks, K- You will need to change some wire connections if you want to use the R1 R/R. I'm finally getting around to sorting out my charging issue. Battery is good, stator is good (.2 to .3 ohm across the three yella wires) and the regulator doesn't do anything like the tests that pinned electrical debug documents suggests. So, I'm going to replace the regulator, now just a matter of what parts. This post mentions using the R1 R/R on the bird, does this stand true for a 2000 FI bird or should I just go with OEM?? If you can go with the R/R for the Yamaha is there any modification required (soldering etc) or does it plug right into the existing loom? EDIT: Oh yeah, a part number would ROCK if anyone does have a lock on the R1 R/R, otherwise I'll just go with OEM, I don't want to get into hacking the part, I have enough trouble with electrical stuffs. So like, HELP! Thanks, K- Does it matter what year R1? I'm noticing different prices from different years and also ALOT more expensive than what I expected. Call Mike Barth @ University Motors in Fargo ND tell him your from this board the price gets better. And he will hook you up with the right R/R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warp11XX Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Maybe it was just a typo....you should be reading AC voltage on the yellow wires from the stator...not DC. My stator was just replaced under warranty. The tech who did the change checked AC output voltage after the change. He told me that he got a reading of 25 VAC. He did not specify at what RPM his check was done. This is low compared to the troubleshooting charts I have seen. They normally spec 50 VAC as correct at 5K RPM. My R/R seems to be working fine and I'm getting 14.58 VDC at the battery at 5K. We'll see what happens..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dotetcher Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 I'm finally getting around to sorting out my charging issue. Battery is good, stator is good (.2 to .3 ohm across the three yella wires) and the regulator doesn't do anything like the tests that pinned electrical debug documents suggests. So, I'm going to replace the regulator, now just a matter of what parts. This post mentions using the R1 R/R on the bird, does this stand true for a 2000 FI bird or should I just go with OEM?? If you can go with the R/R for the Yamaha is there any modification required (soldering etc) or does it plug right into the existing loom? EDIT: Oh yeah, a part number would ROCK if anyone does have a lock on the R1 R/R, otherwise I'll just go with OEM, I don't want to get into hacking the part, I have enough trouble with electrical stuffs. So like, HELP! Thanks, K- You will need to change some wire connections if you want to use the R1 R/R. I'm finally getting around to sorting out my charging issue. Battery is good, stator is good (.2 to .3 ohm across the three yella wires) and the regulator doesn't do anything like the tests that pinned electrical debug documents suggests. So, I'm going to replace the regulator, now just a matter of what parts. This post mentions using the R1 R/R on the bird, does this stand true for a 2000 FI bird or should I just go with OEM?? If you can go with the R/R for the Yamaha is there any modification required (soldering etc) or does it plug right into the existing loom? EDIT: Oh yeah, a part number would ROCK if anyone does have a lock on the R1 R/R, otherwise I'll just go with OEM, I don't want to get into hacking the part, I have enough trouble with electrical stuffs. So like, HELP! Thanks, K- Does it matter what year R1? I'm noticing different prices from different years and also ALOT more expensive than what I expected. Call Mike Barth @ University Motors in Fargo ND tell him your from this board the price gets better. And he will hook you up with the right R/R. Thanks!! Local stealer wanted $96.00. Got it for $57 + shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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