d3300 Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 The brake pads on my '98 need to be replaced and I was wondering how hard is it to spread the pistons to get the new pads in? The service manual makes it look fairly simple but on a car or truck the pistons take a fair bit to force in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 no great force. Be careful of bending the rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottw Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Leave the inside pad in place when you pry the pistons in. That will give support to the disc so you won't bend it. Also make sure the level in the master cylinder doesn't back fill fully and hydraulic lock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBBXX Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Check them carefully. It is possible to slip the pin back in, without the tab properly seated. Ask me how I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I leave both old pads in and use them to pry the pistons back in. You're throwing them away anyway so it's no loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Leave the inside pad in place when you pry the pistons in. That will give support to the disc so you won't bend it. Also make sure the level in the master cylinder doesn't back fill fully and hydraulic lock WOW. I have never done this with the caliper on. I figured sinve the the pads are toast anyway I just slide a big wrench or screwdriver in between and pry them back in once the caliper is off to leave the the rotor out of the equation entirely. I generally run a pipe cleaner around each piston prior to remove dirt and junk so I dont push that back into the calipercausing undue wear on the seals cause I hate brake fluid leaks more than any other fluid......excpet my blood leaking out.....heheheh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjclark7 Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 i am going to be putting ebc's on sometime soon. there's no problem with leaving the stock rotors on and running these new pads right? i thought someone told me once to change both at the same time. also whats the proper break-in for the ebc or any new brake pads??? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrdrydr Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 The brake pads on my '98 need to be replaced and I was wondering how hard is it to spread the pistons to get the new pads in? The service manual makes it look fairly simple but on a car or truck the pistons take a fair bit to force in. Don't remove the wheels or calipers. Just gently pry the piston side back with a big screwdriver, and don't use the rotor for leverage. Remove the pad pins, remove the brake pads, insert new brake pads making sure that the tabs are seated, grease the pad pins with high temperature brake caliper grease, reinsert the pins, torque them to the proper setting, and remember to pump the brake levers before riding. DONE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I put EBC HH pads on, and love them. Me, I pulled the calipers. Blue locktite the bolts when I reinstalled. You can change pads with the calipers on, but I find it is easier to see the retaining tab, and clean any dirt with them off. Also, get some 100 grit sand paper and sand to rotors to remove the glaze. The big point is to pump up the brakes BEFORE going on a ride. You pushed those pistons in to install the pads, and they need a couple of pumps to get back to the rotors. Season the brakes with a few hard brakes from 40- 50 mph. Be carefull, it stops much better with new pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Bikes don`t have a dust boot on pistons,calipers need to be removed and pistons cleaned with brake part cleaner.Otherwise some of the shit shit may end up in your brake fluid, plus seals in cylinders work better with clean pistons then dirty. They suppose to pull pistons back when pressure in released. End result is less drag and nice ,firmer brake lever. On high mileage XX/VFRs I`ve seen problem with retainer bracket ( the "nose" of brake pads seats in it ),that part wears out,breaks in half and,,,,,,,,disappears. It needs to be inspected for wear and replaced if nec.6-7 bucks from Honda dealer,part #10 in the partsfish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I also always remove the calipers and remove all deposits on them and the pistons. It is no benefit to just throw in pads when you get a better and more lasting function by doing it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I also always remove the calipers and remove all deposits on them and the pistons. It is no benefit to just throw in pads when you get a better and more lasting function by doing it correctly. Why don't you guys remove the pistons, clean and inspect both them and the calipers? That way you can be sure everything is done right. Hell, the calipers should probably be magnafluxed too..they're under a lot of stress. And don't forget new hoses. Renew the copper washers, too...you know the old ones never seal correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 ...and while you're doing that, go ahead and replace the fork seals, then the fluid, oh yeah, don't forget steering stem bearings, and since you're that far, go ahead and tear the motor out and turbo that, then you have to extend the swingarm..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I also always remove the calipers and remove all deposits on them and the pistons. It is no benefit to just throw in pads when you get a better and more lasting function by doing it correctly. Plus one on that man. Magnaflux would be ignorant unless you think there is a crack and in that case unless you have a magnaflux machine, dye penetrant would be the best cost effective way to look for a leak. I do, every 4-5 years pop the pistons our using comressed air adn give it all a loook. It's just maint practice. Heck ya fork oil all the damn time, seals when needed. Steering head as needed as well. Some folks treat a motorcycle as an entire system with each component needing service and maint. others barely keep proper air pressure in the tires. It's just a matter of what your levle of commitment to the bike is. A turbo and extended swing arm would be cool too! I'd keep the stock one though. I've done the buffing/sanding of the disks to help bed in new pads and I've not touched them too and I liked it better not touching the rotors....just insert disks and ride it. Personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dion Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I also always remove the calipers and remove all deposits on them and the pistons. It is no benefit to just throw in pads when you get a better and more lasting function by doing it correctly. Plus one on that man. Magnaflux would be ignorant unless you think there is a crack and in that case unless you have a magnaflux machine, dye penetrant would be the best cost effective way to look for a leak. I do, every 4-5 years pop the pistons our using comressed air adn give it all a loook. It's just maint practice. Heck ya fork oil all the damn time, seals when needed. Steering head as needed as well. Some folks treat a motorcycle as an entire system with each component needing service and maint. others barely keep proper air pressure in the tires. It's just a matter of what your levle of commitment to the bike is. A turbo and extended swing arm would be cool too! I'd keep the stock one though. I've done the buffing/sanding of the disks to help bed in new pads and I've not touched them too and I liked it better not touching the rotors....just insert disks and ride it. Personal preference. Here that Joe, you're ingnorant Oh and the whole buffing sanding thing is to remove pad residue not to help bed them. It's required if you're changing from metalic to organic pads or vice versa. But if you do it everytime you change from HH's to HH's it will take longer to condition the discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Here that Joe, you're ingnorant Yeah, you're not telling me anything. I've been married. But seriously......... Its a slippery slope when you start labelling procedures as incorrect when they accomplish the intended mission. Its important to remember there are seasoned mechanics, engineers, carport mechanics, and complete noobs here. Just because its important to someone to check their valves every 5000 miles doesn't mean they should decry those who don't, or intimate that without using their expertise, pistons and camshafts will fail in a big and dangerous way. Ideally, we'd all take our bikes to dealers with service departments whose trained technicians could fix anything on the bike within 60 minutes because of the exemplary design, the special service tools they have, and the high level of training and commitment they have to the task. The motorcycle would be returned in perfect factory spec and it would cost only a copay of $25. However, that's not the case. A good many folks here do their own wrenching not necessarily because of a burning desire to get dirty and not ride their bike, but to save a buck, and/or to protect themselves from the possibility of lackadaisical and potentially dangerous repairs and maintainance on a potentially lethal machine. A bit of humor is a good relief, but sending the wrong information, or portraying a task as too complex and difficult won't get it done, but instead get it delayed due to trepidation, perceived lack of time, or waiting for an appointment for the dealer to do it. Lighten up, guys. The BMW forum is further over to the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexxus Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 LOL,LOL.LOL,LOL,LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 The front brake is by far the most important function on a bike. If anyone does not have the skills to lose two bolts per side, which is needed to get access to the caliper and pistons and clean them, he/she is better of leaving brake maintenance to a shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Brakes are important, although I didn't know we were specifically discussing front brakes. Unfortunately, there are too many people that have the skills to loosen two bolts. And they work as mechanics in dealerships, doing the scut work, like changing brakes. While I'd like someone working on my bike to have the skills to loosen two bolts, I'd also like them to have the skills to examine and clean the bolts before re-installing them, inspect the fork leg for any signs of galling or damage to the threads and mounting bosses, clean those threads with a tap in an appropriate fashion if indicated, and be able to install the new bolts to the correct torque without crossthreading or scratching the soft aluminum of the lower fork legs. And from what I've seen and heard, that's not always the case. Remember, the correct way to reinstall those calipers is with new factory supplied bolts, which have not been previously stressed, and have an appropriate amount of chemical locking agent already in place......at least according to the engineers who designed the device. If I had someone installing brakes in the shop, I think I'd prefer they have the skills to read the shop manual, which specifies that the caliper remain mounted in place for brake pad renewal....which again, technically, would be the correct way. BTW, I take off the calipers, clean and inspect them, and press the pistons back when I change tires. I change tires a lot more often than I change brake pads, so it works out. My point is, there are different levels of expertise. Just because you're a sharp guy, doesn't mean that member XYZ has the mechanical and engineering skills that you do. No reference to the folks participating in the thread......just seizing the opportunity for discussion. We have a great many number of members who enjoy working on their motorcycles and are expert practitioners....capable of removing and safely reinstalling a caliper or a crankshaft. But some aren't...and what's "correct" for one may not be what's "correct" for another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 We have a great many number of members who enjoy working on their motorcycles and are expert practitioners....capable of removing and safely reinstalling a caliper or a crankshaft. But some aren't...and what's "correct" for one may not be what's "correct" for another. Well put since I fall into the catagory of "some aren't" I do know that the word OFF is spelled with two F's Joe you have TOWANDA spelled bass ackwords in your signature !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Brakes are important, although I didn't know we were specifically discussing front brakes. Unfortunately, there are too many people that have the skills to loosen two bolts. And they work as mechanics in dealerships, doing the scut work, like changing brakes. While I'd like someone working on my bike to have the skills to loosen two bolts, I'd also like them to have the skills to examine and clean the bolts before re-installing them, inspect the fork leg for any signs of galling or damage to the threads and mounting bosses, clean those threads with a tap in an appropriate fashion if indicated, and be able to install the new bolts to the correct torque without crossthreading or scratching the soft aluminum of the lower fork legs. And from what I've seen and heard, that's not always the case. Remember, the correct way to reinstall those calipers is with new factory supplied bolts, which have not been previously stressed, and have an appropriate amount of chemical locking agent already in place......at least according to the engineers who designed the device. If I had someone installing brakes in the shop, I think I'd prefer they have the skills to read the shop manual, which specifies that the caliper remain mounted in place for brake pad renewal....which again, technically, would be the correct way. BTW, I take off the calipers, clean and inspect them, and press the pistons back when I change tires. I change tires a lot more often than I change brake pads, so it works out. My point is, there are different levels of expertise. Just because you're a sharp guy, doesn't mean that member XYZ has the mechanical and engineering skills that you do. No reference to the folks participating in the thread......just seizing the opportunity for discussion. We have a great many number of members who enjoy working on their motorcycles and are expert practitioners....capable of removing and safely reinstalling a caliper or a crankshaft. But some aren't...and what's "correct" for one may not be what's "correct" for another. Rockmeupto125, I'm not an expert. But, reading your comment: "Why don't you guys remove the pistons, clean and inspect both them and the calipers? That way you can be sure everything is done right. Hell, the calipers should probably be magnafluxed too..they're under a lot of stress. And don't forget new hoses. Renew the copper washers, too...you know the old ones never seal correctly. " I felt there was a reason to return to the issue of the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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