Am I stupid or do I have defective switch???

[Redbird USA]

I ordered a BikeMaster tether kill switch from Chaparral the other day. Going to the track to just see what I can run these days. I went to hook it up from my kill switch wiring harness. Used the black wire, like I did on my 97 BB. Wired each end of the switch to one side then the other of the black wire I cut.

The problem was that when the button(tether) was off, the bike was running. When I put the button on it shut off. Tried switching the two wires from the kill switch around, same result. It seemed to be the correct wire because with the button off EFI came on, put the button on and no EFI and no power. Took the switch off, with my two blacks open, no start, connected them, she fired up???

Do I have a backwards switch or am I doing something wrong??? :icon_doh:

[The Beakman]

Are there 3 terminals on the tether switch? If so, one will be a "common" (not meant as Ground in this case but as uninterupted hot either in or out)

another will be "N O", normally open, i.e. no connection to the common in the off (unactivated) position;

the third is "N C", normally closed, i.e. connected circuit to the common in the off position.

The Honda kill switch should be a NC circuit regardless how many terminals, so I would investigate the tether switch.

[Redbird USA]

Are there 3 terminals on the tether switch? If so, one will be a "common" (not meant as Ground in this case but as uninterupted hot either in or out)

another will be "N O", normally open, i.e. no connection to the common in the off (unactivated) position;

the third is "N C", normally closed, i.e. connected circuit to the common in the off position.

The Honda kill switch should be a NC circuit regardless how many terminals, so I would investigate the tether switch.

The tether has only two terminals. A white wire coming off one and a black off the other.

[The Beakman]

Then I'd have to say the tether switch is badly assembled or the wrong spec. If it closes on activation then that would mean the honda kill switch (which I assume it is taking a wire from) would be powering a contact relay, which doesn't seem right as it is supposed to "kill" everything.

or

It's designed that way and since your going to crash, you need both hands on the bars and can't afford the time to slip the tether back in. That's how it's done in China.

[cbrxxquad]

there are two kinds of kill switches.

Fis need different kind than carbed

Pindle is what I had to have on my quad, it breaks the connection when pulled.

[Redbird USA]

there are two kinds of kill switches.

Fis need different kind than carbed

Pindle is what I had to have on my quad, it breaks the connection when pulled.

This one is supposed to break connection when pulled. However, it is working just the opposite. When it is pulled, the button comes out. At that point all power should be lost, not so, that is when I can fire it up.

http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/...905D1C46FA20911

[blackhawkxx]

I have the same one hanging in my garage. I did the same thing that you did years ago on my 97. I bought a different one.

[Redbird USA]

I have the same one hanging in my garage. I did the same thing that you did years ago on my 97. I bought a different one.

Do you have a different one on a newer model? I have an 01 now(EFI). This same one worked fine on my 97. :icon_doh:

[cbrxxquad]

can'tspellworthshit

The one you have grounds the mag or ign to kill when pulled, great for carb bikes. You need one that breaks the power to the electrics when pulled.

These guys have both and more and are quality pieces. It is the shits if these switches don't work just before a run. Trust me.

[blackhawkxx]

I don't remember how I had it wired but it was the same switch as yours on a 97 and did the same thing.